Member postings for Chris V

Thank John!

Chris.

Thanks Howard. Please see pics for power source etc.

Yes I can confirm 240 volts hurts as i found out a couple of weeks ago. Hence my nervousness and asking the question! I will be happier and no doubt safer if I can get away with domestic batteries.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Dave, I didn't do anything I can remember like this at school so I'm a bit clueless i'm afraid.

What does +ve mean please, and by the electrolyte you mean the plating solution?

Chris.

Hi John,

Previously I had fumed (with ammonia) the copper I'm trying to plate to age it (they are parts for an antique light). Thinking this might hinder the plating process I stripped the fumed surface by submerging in clock cleaner,
a kind of diluted ammonia. After that I didn't touch with bare hands only with rubber gloves.

Do you think that might be the issue?

Last night I tried removing the crystals from one part finding it was relatively tough going, having to resort to Autosol.

Ive turned the power off now but left one submerged for overnight success (-;

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks John, no means of adjusting or measuring the current, however rather than leaving it switched on all night tonight I will try leaving it submerged without the power on, nothing to loose now!

Cheers

Chris.

Ok I'm getting nowhere fast with the copper plating. I have a 2lt water filled pasta jar with 12oz of crystals dissolved and a 2 amp power source. The electrode is 12" long, thick wall copper tube, 1/2" dia with 3/16" centre hole.

+ connected onto the electrode, - onto the part to be plated.

Part is suspended in the solution via copper wire and not touching electrode. There is tiny progress in that the copper part I'm trying to overplate (to cover a soldered repair) has areas covered in what looks like copper filings but from the clips Ive seen on the web it should be plated by now? Its been in about 5 hours today, after an attempt yesterday with a weaker solution.

Any suggestions please?

Hi John,

Ah yes got it, thanks for explaining re overhangs.

Actually I was thing I wonder if a Norman could be made & fitted to a lathe other than a Drummond, seems it could be. Is the other Norman you photographed on a Drummond?

Best

Chris.

Thanks so much John, that's really interesting. Are you saying the Norman is more rigid than the Dickson?

I think I see your Norman parting tool post appears to be fixed to the cross slide by one tee nut?

Best regards

Chris.

Thank you John, yes I will certainly let you know, have ordered some bits already.

Regarding that radius on the Norman toolpost ..WOW! Do you sharpen the cutters, send away or buy new when dull? I never found sending them away to be sharpened worked out, they never cut the same as when new.

Just held in the toolpost by two allen bolts then, or did you make a special holder?

Very nice toolholder you made there BTW!

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks so much John, I will look to order some bits at the weekend to give this a try.

On a completely different subject, looking at your photos you appear to have used a yellow Tc tipped router cutter for a form tool...were you cutting steel with it on the lathe?

Cheers

Chris.

Thanks John & Ian.

Ok Google also taught me what an electrode is/for, seems a bit of copper tubing will do the trick.

So as I understand you if dipping the object to be plated, that will always have one wire attached to it, and the other wire to the electrode. So indirectly both + & - wires are going into the solution?

If the power source is giving out 12V does that mean I'd get 12v worth of electric shock if I put my hand in?

Also, does say 12V work quicker than say 3V? ( I saw one clip using a couple of batteries)

Perhaps you need more Volts if the tank is holding more solution?

Some clips suggest making the solution hot to work quicker I think,.... Ok but once it gets cool not sure about reheating, or if indeed that's really necessary if time is not so important?

Cheers

Chris.

Ah, just found an adaptor to fit on the end that you can plug two individual cables into, and its 12V not 6v.

Chris.

Hi John,

Thanks for this.

Google tells me an old wall wart is what we plug into the wall socket and then into the blood pressure monitor to convert from 240v to 6v, presume thats what you mean? The 6v end has a moulded plug, presume this would need splitting into two? cable leads?

Copper Sulphate yes on eBay no bother and cheap enough.

You lost me after that though?

I'd want to dip my parts to be plated.

Cheers

Chris.

Ok many thanks, I shall investigate further kits with batteries!

Cheers

Chris.

Good morning all and thank you for these comments.

Yes Steve I'm aware most platers copper plate first, however Ive generally had bad experiences with commercial platers.

John you got me thinking, well Googling a little, and its something I will try at home. The utube clips & available home kits I looked at all used batteries but from the sound of it you just left the metal to be plated in the soloution and waited for it to do its thing?

I will have to do some more research but am keen to have a go if its not too complicated.

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you John, that's most interesting.

I don't suppose there's such a simple sounding soloution for copper plating on copper?

It's to disguise a silver soldered repair.

Cheers

Chris.

Can anybody recommend please any copper plating companies that are happy to take on small one off like jobs at a reasonable cost?

It does not matter where in the UK as happy to post the parts.

Cheers

Chris.

Hi John, thank you so much, another forum member has already got me sorted out though! (-:

Much appreciate the offer though,

Cheers

Chris.

Could anybody please help with a scan, or even better sell me a back copy of the Norman Tool post article in No 274 November 2018 Model Engineers Workshop?

Cheers

Chris.

Thank you Bill, ok great that's another method to try out and good to know it works.

Thank you also Hopper, yes thankfully the marbled blue base is in good condition save for a few rust spots on the underside. I will most certainly be keeping the original finish on that part, the rest needs some TLC. Part of my day job is restoring old lighting so I know the value of saving and preserving patina.

Brian thanks again, yes this answers the question of how it was likely done...and also given the chemicals involved I think I will have to be satisfied with a non mottled/marbled blue.

Ok off to work for me,

Cheers

Chris.