Member postings for Jouke van der Veen

Also no discolorations at the soldering side of the board?

Most of times such electronics suffers from continuously overheating..

You could have a closer look at the components first before you decide for your proposal. The pcb is not to difficult. If you recognize some deviation, replace it. Check resistors and diodes for discoloration, capacitors for deformation etc. But be careful when measuring when it is connected to the grid!

From here I can not advise you how to check if the electronics is still OK. Perhaps you could take more more detailed pictures showing the electronic components and that somebody else can advise how to measure.

It is something for an electronics forum, e.g. circuitsonline.net (Dutch).

Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 02/11/2019 20:33:18

Hallo PGK,

As far as I understand there should be an electronic ballast between power input and FML.

I do not see that in your pictures. Is the ballast in the foot of the lamp?

Possibly the ballast should be replaced.

Regards,

Jouke

Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 02/11/2019 14:55:26

A possible solution to solve the backlash problem would be a mini ballscrew as I said already before. I have added a drawing to the album “Emco Compact 5 anti-backlash nut”.

What Kiwi says is right.

But with this modification you need also the new design lead screw and the new design cross slide. Both are longer than the old design from before 1985. This is to compensate for placing the anti-backlash more to the front. About the same position as in “my” design. I figured it out about 5 years ago and it would cost approx €500. For that price you could buy a complete second hand Emco C5. I try to solve it for a much lower price. In the mean time I bought a second bed + saddle + cross slide + top slide + automatic feed parts for €170. Not a bed deal in my opinion. This will be used to improve my lathe. The “old” parts are now available for my milling column for which I am still trying to solve the backlash problem.

I made an ALBUM: “Emco Compact 5 anti-backlash nut”. I hope it works.

Perhaps a moderator is willing to repair the above damage I created.

Sorry, I see. I have to find out how to do it well. It is the first time I am doing it.

Would it be possible to edit the original post and to upload pictures to the original posts?

Sorry for pictures at wrong place. Uploading of first picture went wrong.

And a side view. The 2 steel inserts are used here to correct for non-flatness of the saddle front and are not for mounting. I made a temperary fixture with a toolmakers clamp (here left away). The M8 lead screw is still fed into the adjustment nut and the saddle which does not work of course. But as long I am experimenting I do not want to destroy the original parts.

Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 28/06/2019 16:32:09

Here a top few of an adjustment nut with vertical plate in front of the saddle. The vertical has to be connected to the front of the saddle. Distance between hand wheel and cross slide has to be filled. A longer lead screw is needed. Thread in saddle has to be removed when a M8 lead screw is used. When a M6 lead screw is used it can freely enter the saddle and the M8 thread can stay there.

Edited By Jouke van der Veen on 28/06/2019 16:12:26

I understand what you mean, I think. Should not have the lead screw some radial play direct behind the handwheel in the mounting to the cross slide? This is because it is difficult to keep the lead screw centered and in line withe the cross slide for the total displacement of 50mms? I understand that this sound strange with the other point that the lead screw “swims” in the saddle thread.

I had in mind to build an adjustable nut in front of the existing thread in the saddle. It is some kind of bushing with adjustable nut shrink fitted or brazed in a vertical plate which on its turn is screwed to the saddle front. In order to keep the original travel of the cross slide a longer lead screw and a filling piece in front of the cross slide is needed. Length of cross slide including handwheel increases appr. 25mm. I will try to upload a picture showing the principle.

By the way, more less the same could be achieved by applying a mini ball screw, e.g. a 0801.

Barrie,

I expect from your reaction that you understand now that there exists no adjustable nut for an Emco C5 saddle produced in 1982.

I tried to say: The spindle always finds a different position in that thread when it pushes against the work piece. It depends also how far the spindle is in the saddle.

I all agree.

But it is not nice to work with a cross slide spindle moving in a worn out thread in a Zamak saddle.

The spindle does not only have axial play but also in the perpendicular direction. This results in a non-reproducible backlash. The spindle always finds a different position in that thread when it The saddle is from before 1985. Emco improved it in 1985 by introducing an adjustable nut. Please, have a look in the manual. I hope to find a solution to reduce backlash and to get it reproducible.

Neil,

This may be true. But there are many (non-)users with a different opinion.

My problem was the bad accuracy of movement of the cross slide on the original saddle. I hope to solve this some time for my milling stand-alone.

I am sure your proposal will work. But it is a radical solution.

I am looking for something more simple.

As said before, I bought already a second bed + saddle with anti backlash nut for my lathe. The original bed + saddle with worn thread is now available for a stand-alone milling equipment. I wonder if the thread could be repaired with a Time-Sert bushing. I have no experience with Time-Sert..