Member postings for old mart

Thanks everyone, it looks exactly what I want, the Atlas has poor controls, but the Smart & Brown model A has a tendency to make me fussy.

This is the Myford advert on ebay:

**LINK**

I generally go by what seems right at the time, cutters vary in their cutting rates. Be careful with small diameters, it is hard to tell whether you are overloading before it breaks. Yesterday, I was pleased to find that a 10mm solid carbide roughing cutter exceeded my expectations when cutting steel to a shoulder. The depth was 9mm, and I gradually increased the ammount cut each pass up to 3mm at 2000rpm, both ways. The cutter worked better in climb as the swarf was not a problem and the backlash is fully controlled. I had been contemplating using a shell mill, but the 10mm was quicker. Roughing cutters have wavy sides, like a thread and cut smaller chips, I only have one carbide one.

PP has the correct wiring illustrated and you should use "mesh" which is the equivalent of Delta if you are running an inverter from domestic single phase mains. I always recommend checking out "The Inverter Drive Supermarket" and you will find that some of their inverters have a free "quick start guide" which is invaluble in all the wiring, external controls and programming. So helpful that even a dummy like me was able to wire remote speed, on off and emergency stop buttons. Having a proper box for the controls is recommended as the controls on the inverter are only intended for initial setting up, not continuous use. It is recommended that shielded wiring between the inverter and the motor and for the control wires is used to minimise interference from or to the system. I would go for the 0.5 Kw size inverter for your Fobco.

Welcome to the forum.

Edited By old mart on 21/05/2023 14:37:20

Edited By old mart on 21/05/2023 14:38:34

Edited By old mart on 21/05/2023 14:41:06

With the older threads, the problem is that some predate standards which were started by Whitworth. Also, some makers purposely used proprietry sizes to make sure that spare pasts were always supplied by them exclusively. I think the only solution would be to produce test threads on spare material and make careful notes as to which ones were the best size.

The Atlas cross slide is being redesigned and a new leadscrew and antibacklash nuts are being added. This leaves the dismal cross slide dial, which should be resettable, but I have not been able to get it working very well. The scale is 0-100 like many Myford lathes and I have noticed that Myford are selling an improved version on ebay. Has anyone got one who can comment on its quality and also tell me what diameter it is?

When we got the Atlas 12 x 24, There was a block of aluminium about 40 mm thick and of a good size to raise the headstock end of the lathe. I had two thoughts in mind, to increase the working height a bit for comfort and also to allow levelling adjustment. The tailstock end is now supported on two adjustable supports. The actual levelling has never been carried out and the adjusters are only finger tight as when Rod did some test cuts on large diameter aluminium bar, they greatly exceeded our expectations for accuracy. Just lucky, I presume. This is a sketch of the simple tailstock adjusters which have been posted before, some time ago.

Edited By old mart on 16/05/2023 21:09:31

I would prefer to dismantle it then the parts are not only lighter, but smaller.

The leadscrew and nut arrived today, 2 weeks early, and nothing extra to pay over the £44. To improve the lathes poor design, the cross slide is a pathetic 6" long, and also to make installing positive antibacklash much easier, I will be making a longer cross slide, adding at least 2", or maybe more. There is a chunk of metal at the museum which will be used if it is cast iron and the design is very simple.

Edited By old mart on 16/05/2023 14:17:55

Edited By old mart on 16/05/2023 14:19:30

Sorry, my only Bridgeport experience is from seeing my old firms toolmakers using all sorts of fancy extras on their pair of machines for one offs. I do know that there are lots of controls that rarely get used that you need to be aware of.

Since the op has not finished the brake, who can be sure it will not work?

The waves are at right angles to the surfaces used, they cannot stretch.

When my old Black & Decker professional SDS drill broke, the only thing worth saving was the cable, which was immediately transfered to my Bosch 2 speed drill. The cable is soft and so easy to get into the case, the Bosch cable got binned.

With practically any modern "silver" coin, the alloy will be one of the many cupro-nickels, so the platinc might be an alloy. If not, there would be a lot of copper contaminating the bath,so using the purest nickel available would be safest. Commercial nickel plating has the anodes in bags and continuous filtration is needed.

A year ago, they were £130, there are two variations, a 135 lbin and a 450lbin. I'm not sure if the wiring for the stops is high or low or whether the stops are sensitive enough to use up to a shoulder. I have also wondered what the gear meshing with that one in the main illustration looks like.

Edited By old mart on 14/05/2023 17:33:35

The reason I wondered about the 180mm drum size, was that the CB72/77, the 450 and the sports Benleys had 200mm brakes. Perhaps the CB175 had the 180. Everybody seemed to make TLS brake plates for the Norton/AMC 8 inch full width hub, and at least one make for Velocette, but not the AJS/Matchless 7 inch hub.

There are a huge number of accessories made for Bridgeports and all of them have many features not found on common mills. Having a good book to find out about them is a great idea.

I remember seeing a kid back in the 60's failing his MOT having the fully drilled for lightness front brake torque rod facing the wrong way around, under compression. Even I, just starting out with motorcycles spotted that potentially lethal mistake. Under tension, the link would have been dicey because of the overdrilling.

Another way for TLS is having the cable do all the work, with the outer on one lever and the inner going to the other lever, used on BMW's, I think. Bicycle vee brakes used this method.

If you lengthen one, you will also have to lengthen the lever for the other brake shoe to match,otherwise there will be uneven braking force on the brake shoes and uneven wear. Brazing would be effective, but you should have the old plating stripped off first. The chrome platers can do the stripping for you, chemically. How did all the riders of Japanese bikes and the British bikes just before discs came out cope with twin leading shoe brakes on hill stops?

What Honda did the 180mm brakeplate come from?

Edited By old mart on 13/05/2023 19:53:59

I cannot see how a slight increase in max speed, especially if you use modern oils can cause any harm. Oils from the 50's are primative compared to modern synthetics. John Olson runs at plus 20% which is very safe indeed.