Member postings for Henry Brown

As Keith says, I think he said he had flipped it over it on the video. I don't really see the point on that side as the forces are moving away from that jaw, and peering at mine this afternoon if I did reverse it it would hit the edge of the body as it moved down. I was pondering if it might be possible to add an extra bit to the moving jaw, either weld a piece of 3mm plate on the blade end or bolt a complete extra longer plate across but it seems to work fine as it is.

Hello Justin, welcome to the forum! We'd like to see your wobblers

Oh, look! I've just got my engineering degree come through on my tablet! Now what's this big old lump do?

Good tip, thanks! I'll get one from my lad, he's a builder so he goes through quite a lot of them, there must be lots of uses for a piece of a wheel...

It'll probably come from China etc. anyway it just layers of pointless bureaucracy we will all have to pay for. Something the politicians have been against until recently...

Chronos have the SOBA HV6 rotary table back in stock Roger...

I don't know what Warco sell as individual chucks but the 160mm 3 jaw that came with my new lathe back in January is branded Fuerda. It seems fine when I've used it, I don't use it much, and is nicely finished.

Good spot Ady, thanks! The cardboard box is a great idea if you are using the saw in the living room! Seriously though he seems to have got that one working very well, I'll go have a play with mine later...

No problem, she's not referred to as "The Enemy" for nothing! We get on very well, I do as I'm told and everything is fine...

She cooks my tea

Seems a lot of trouble to go to when a few taps of a soft mallet will do the same thing, unless you are designing offset in for later use but he seems to just be correcting his spindle runout. Unfortunately the sound has packed up on my laptop so I could only watch selected bits of the video!

If you do have go for a relaxed register you can clock it all on your lathe and lock it up, stamp the adaptor so you will know where to put it back and drill and ream between the bolt holes for a couple of silver steel dowels to ensure it stays where you want it.

I've got the backplate but not the chuck assy yet, that's how I'll be doing it if the tight register option doesn't work to my satisfaction.

A trick I learnt as an apprentice for smallish threads was to have the working tap drive square part way into the wrench and put another tap from the same set with the threaded end in the drill chuck, lightly fingertight, don't use the chuck key.

Put the end of the working tap into the job, bring the other backwards tap to it to engage in the wrench and nip the wrench up. Start the thread going, the backward tap will guide the working tap into the hole until enough thread has been cut to be stable. If on a mill this relies on not moving the X Y axis of course!

The Machine Mart one can only use their cleaning agent due to seal failure if more aggressive cleaners are used with them.

Seems a common fault with the cheaper stuff, the relevant internet sites were full of it, I found this out when I bought one 18 months ago. I'll be interested to see if a replacement will be recommended, I had toyed with trying a boat bilge pump but not got around to it.

Hi Baz, I thought mine was ok until I checked the part I had zeroed with it and it was .003" out. I took it apart and found that it was quite crude and the scissor movement had quite a lot of sideways slop which I managed to take out with some washers made from shim which improved matters a little but I'm afraid I don't trust it now,

Old, old story I guess, you pays your money...

I have the one from DRO (Link) and don't rate it TBH, ok for rough clocking .002/.003" which I rarely do, I'd much rather use a finger DTI. I believe the expensive ones are very good, the jig borers where I worked used to use them but they were thousands of pounds.

Allendale/Machine-DRO have extended their 10% off pre VAT sale until tomorrow if you fancy something mentioned in Neil's article...

Edit: discount code is BLACK10

Edited By Henry Brown on 29/11/2020 21:44:50

Depends on what I'm doing, knocking seven bells out of a bit of steel any temp will do, if I'm standing around watching a machine I like it to be about 10 degrees or above. I have a desiccant air conditioner that goes on for an hour or two when I go in at this time of year, that helps quite a bit and it keeps the humidity down as well. If all else fails I switch the halogen heater on...

Henry.

Edit, just saw the above post about clothing, I wear two pairs of fleecy jogging bottoms and thick soled trainers as I find my top half is warm but my feet and lower legs can get quite cold.

Edited By Henry Brown on 29/11/2020 15:51:51

Reading through Neil's old post I noted Bill Phinn mentioned carbide jaws on his Mitutoyo. I quite fancy another DVC, as my old Linear one is getting on a bit. Despite concerns about worn jaws I'll maybe take a chance on a second hand Mitutoyo if I can find one local that I can see before buying. Is there a model number for the carbide jaw version or are they all the same?

I have always felt that the top slide on my GH1322 lathe was a bit notchy when it came to me back in January and put it down to the gib strips needing adjustment which I did and the feel improved. I have noticed the backlash has increased with use so I decided to investigate and found that the leadscrew flanks were as rough as the proverbial badgers **** It had considerably worn the brass nut it runs in, hence the backlash.

Yesterday, just after lunch, I got on the phone to Peter in the spares department and explained what had happened, he checked his stock and sent me the replacement via DHL, it arrived at lunchtime today.

While the lathe should never have left the factory with such an awful piece of machining it is good that Warco had spares and were able to help in such a pleasant and efficient way. Something to bear in mind when buying expensive new tooling...