Here is a list of all the postings UncouthJ has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Mill power feed speed modification |
24/07/2023 21:54:38 |
Thanks Dave. I'll whip the feed off tomorrow and see what's what. J |
24/07/2023 15:42:51 |
Thanks folks. I'll take some measurements re feed speed and come back. I suspect I'll get a buddy to come take a look, who's much better with electronics than I. No doubt he'll understand thes terminology that's gone right over my noggin... J |
23/07/2023 23:12:33 |
It works perfectly well across its range, it's just the thing is too fast at all the speeds the pot can notice. Dialling it right down to where it's useful it seems like the power fluctuates and the speed is very hard to control with any satisfactory accuracy. I wonder if it just needs a heftier pot? J |
Thread: What did you do today? 2023 |
23/07/2023 18:55:56 |
Posted by Nigel Graham 2 on 23/07/2023 15:04:35:
That seems small, M8. ARC Euro sells M10 and 3/8" BSW ones for MT2 tools. Otherwise, if the spindle or tailstock barrel is clear right through use a drawbar instead.
I tend to use the centre in an extension sleeve to give myself a bit of room and thought it'd be nice to be able to drift it out nice n easy... |
Thread: How to sale dads stuff |
23/07/2023 16:54:13 |
Dave Adkins from Slip 2 Chuck's does clearances. Can be contacted of Facebook. |
Thread: What did you do today? 2023 |
23/07/2023 14:52:37 |
Noticed my live centre has a drawbar screw in the back but couldn't find any M8 screw in tangs for sale anywhere... But we have the tools, we have the power! |
Thread: Mill power feed speed modification |
23/07/2023 13:21:30 |
Hi folks Hey folks... I have a Chester 626 mill with power feed, however the useful working speed is somewhere between 0-1 on the pot and I'm noticing that the feed/torque at that low area is irregular at best. Wondering if anyone has done any mods to improve this, without having to make a whole custom PF? I'm hoping it's as simple as replacing the horrible plastic gears in the unit? I'm assuming they're such crappy plastic items to provide a point of failure redundancy? Cheers J |
Thread: Rapidor power hacksaw |
06/07/2023 17:45:53 |
Well, thanks again to Marcus. I've now reinstated the damper and stop mechanism. Interestingly mine is M6 not ¼whit, I wonder if yours has been redrilled/tapped at some point, or perhaps an older model. Luckily I had some M6 rod in stock, so no drama. Just waiting on new blades now. What's your preference? I've gone for 10tpi as the middle of the road option, should do everything well enough? All the best J |
06/07/2023 17:45:52 |
Well, thanks again to Marcus. I've now reinstated the damper and stop mechanism. Interestingly mine is M6 not ¼whit, I wonder if yours has been redrilled/tapped at some point, or perhaps an older model. Luckily I had some M6 rod in stock, so no drama. Just waiting on new blades now. What's your preference? I've gone for 10tpi as the middle of the road option, should do everything well enough? All the best J |
30/06/2023 21:38:21 |
Tbh one of the biggest reasons I went for the old donkey saw over a modern bandsaw is that I just love the tune of them at work. I'd happily run it through a bit of scrap just for that. However I totally disagree on the accuracy point, I've always found the hacksaw to give a much better cut. I'm not concerned about speed in the slightest. |
30/06/2023 20:01:02 |
Excellent that's EXACTLY what I need thanks Marcus, you're a hero! J |
30/06/2023 18:56:55 |
Hi folks. I've just got myself one of these wonderful machines. However the damping mechanism is missing or non functional. The dashpot seemed to be full of water when I got it so I thought/hoped it would simply be a case of cleaning out the pot and filling with slide oil. But as that's not worked and, from some old posts on here, it appears there may be some kind of mechanism I'm missing. Also wondering if slide oil is too thin, any recommendations for something goopier? Anyone have any photos or drawings that may be able to shed some light on the matter please? Feel free to reply or DM. Ta muchly J |
Thread: Why is the world of model engineering still imperial? |
10/03/2023 11:11:21 |
Posted by Lee Rogers on 10/03/2023 10:12:05:
My Dad was an aerospace design engineer who worked on everything from homebuilts to air launched weapons and satellites . He told me that he occasionally worked in a unit he called an elephant . Eg; If dimension A is 1 elephant then dimension B must be 2 elephant , dimension C becomes 1/2 an elephant and so on. The point of course being that the dimensions were all relative , so for the purposes of determining a general shape and layout an elephant would do the job. I've heard of the elephants unit from Americans describing sink holes... The tagline being, "Americans really will use anything to avoid using the metric system"! I seem to remember another instance using washing machines... Edited By UncouthJ on 10/03/2023 11:14:12 |
05/03/2023 21:58:38 |
Posted by JA on 04/03/2023 09:44:35:
I strongly believe fits and tolerences have a place in model engineering but I am at a loss to understand their relevance to the Imperial -v- Metric arguement. Perhaps they are being used just to spice up this ancient, pre-deluvian, arguement. JA And BUSTED! 😂🤣 Glad someone got it! It's a pointless argument and always has been. As I said before, just a fun biannual dust up... Edited By UncouthJ on 05/03/2023 22:01:42 |
03/03/2023 19:40:55 |
Posted by Nicholas Wheeler 1 on 03/03/2023 18:32:39:
Posted by UncouthJ on 03/03/2023 15:49:00:
Here's the debate ender... Fits n tolerances! You can pretty perfectly gauge an amount of slop in a slip, or an amount of welly on an interference in a handful of thou. Tell me you can do that so simply in metric so I can call you a liar 😉
Do you really think that metric engineers/machinists/fabricators/etc can't do that, or judge by eye to similar precision? Yes actually. Don't care what language you speak, the 0-5 thou difference either way is infinitely easier to account for without looking anything up. Remember the focus of this forum is the hobby engineer, not the daily jobber. I know that up to a couple thou interference, I'm probably ok with the mallet, any more than that and I'm going to the press, no charts required. You can only do that in metric if you already know the values, which are a lot less simple than 1 or 2... J |
03/03/2023 17:10:20 |
Can't argue with Dave's comment! My love of imperial measurement ends when the workshop apron comes off, pretty much everything else in the world I'm fully metric. I do love this bi-annual dust up though LOL J Edited By UncouthJ on 03/03/2023 17:10:40 Edited By UncouthJ on 03/03/2023 17:11:49 |
03/03/2023 15:49:00 |
Here's the debate ender... Fits n tolerances! You can pretty perfectly gauge an amount of slop in a slip, or an amount of welly on an interference in a handful of thou. Tell me you can do that so simply in metric so I can call you a liar 😉 J
|
Thread: A New Way |
03/03/2023 14:24:00 |
This is something Musk doesn't get enough credit for imo. Yes he's a dilettante venture capitalist, but he's also a savant manufacturing engineer. Space X was a pipe dream until he brought the industry out of the 70's production mindset! Now moon bases are genuine probability in even some of the more venerable of our lifetime! No argument he's a marmite character, but I'm 100% in the love it camp! J |
Thread: Why is the world of model engineering still imperial? |
03/03/2023 14:11:24 |
Metric is great when dealing with whole numbers, but imperial is inherently geared up to provide fractional measures to get you in the ball park and dial in a dimension. It's 6 and half a dozen when using a DRO, but for anything that wants measuring to the mic gauge, I'll take imperial every time given the option. Additionally, and this could be an autistic brain thing rather than a rule, but I find there's patterns to imperial measurements that I just don't feel in metric... J |
Thread: A note on the editors note... (Issue 325) |
03/03/2023 10:54:09 |
Funny you should go there Dave... Any complaints about this story, Dave's to blame 😉 So I tried shaving with a cutthroat for a while, quite like it but there's those few extra steps you need to take with it that put me off. Well... Not so much the steps but what can go wrong if you forget one of them. So I got this razor second hand. Beautiful Sheffield steel, I forget the maker but a known one. Not bothered about it being second hand, I put a new edge on it and gave it some serious sterilising, in Milton's and then alcohol. We got on great for a good month or so... Now I'm not to this day sure why I thought it was a good idea at the time, but I was probably onto a winner and decided the plums could do with a trim in the event of... So I gave the razor a quick hone and a strop and set to. One tiny little nick right on the join of the sack but nothing serious (I thought), dash of alcohol and jobs a goodun. Cut to a month or two later I notice a sort of pea size lump where I'd nicked it. Within a day and some twiddling the thing turns into a grape and I think "DOCTOR"! Who promptly says "I AINT TOUCHING THAT!" and sends me to A&E. So the moral of the story is, if you're going to use a straight razor, sterilise the blade EVERY BLOODY TIME, especially after stoning. That is unless you enjoy the idea of having a golf ball size cyst drained from anywhere whatsoever.... I won't treat you to the very impressive picture of my holy ball bag, that all of my friends had to endure for months after! HAPPY FRIDAY FOLKS 😉 J Edited By UncouthJ on 03/03/2023 10:56:11 |
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