Member postings for coggy

Thanks all, that gives me some ideas to look at.

Does anyone know of an adhesive that will do this job, please?

I want to stick/glue a piece of mild steel about 4mm wide to a piece of hardened steel about 8mm wide. It needs to survive being outdoors but not during winter, so it shouldn't freeze. It will be getting wet and there is not much mechanical force trying to separate the pieces, say no more than you can push with your finger. It is a permanent fix and the glue needs to be concealed between the pieces.

Thanks.

Edited By coggy on 14/07/2020 21:32:45

I had to show this post to my wife who often comments that I keep my workshop cleaner than I do the house. My reply to her points out the importance of having a clean build environment and I offer to be as diligent with my house cleaning efforts if I could build engines etc. in the house. I'll leave you to guess at her response to that.

I tell her she is lucky as a late friend of mine use to keep and work on his motorbikes in his kitchen, needless to say he wasn't married.

As for keeping the workshop clean I have the same problem, especially when it comes to grinding and wood dust. I do have a 8" industrial air removal fan which helps with fine wood dust but not grinding dust. The problem with that is it quickly sucks out all the heat in winter time.

The best way I find to remove dust is by using a mobile dust extractor. I have attached 40mm waste pipes in strategic places on various machines I then plug the extractor into each machine as i use it. I made a free standing stand which basically is two pieces of wood fixed together at 90 degrees the up right has a large funnel mounted in it at bench level and the dust extractor plugs into the back of the funnel via a pipe. The stand is weighted to keep it up right and I move it around to where I'm working. It works well but the constant noise of the extractor running can be tedious at times.

I also bought several welding blankets and fitted them to the workshop roof on curtain poles. I can then pull them around my metal working bench when welding and grinding to help contain the muck. The blankets can then be pushed back and tied to the wall when not in use keeping them out the way.

My lathe has a splash guard at the back and guard over the chuck which helps and I have a large old grill pan from an old cooker under the lathe. It works to some degree.

My bench grinder has a guard around half the sides and the back, it was the outer cover of a microwave with the vent holes hammered flat, there is a hole cut in one side that the dust extractor pipe fits through, it helps reduce the dust expelled pretty well.

At the end of the day I find the best way to keep the workshop clean is to clean it up as you make the mess and not let it build up. Unlike my wood turner grandfather, I remember going into his workshop as a child and seeing my grandfather ankle deep in shavings and a woodbine hanging from his mouth. He never burnt it down but there must have been a few close calls.

Being very careful and not bothering with them, if people can't be bothered to answer the phone to get a sale then in my experience they certainly won't answer it for service back or complaints.

Thanks all for help, I am now fully conversant in the use of +44 etc. .

Thanks all. I thought it was mobile as it stated +44 Infront which I've only ever seen on mobile numbers refering to it being in the UK. I did phone it yesterday but got no reply.

They claim to have been going since 1923 and acting as Chester agent, I was going to try them as Chester won't answer my email or phone calls, seems they don't want my business.

I know what your talking about there Bod, my wife does that to me with the usual comment of "god, your really embarrassing." .

Edited By coggy on 22/09/2019 18:26:18

Has anyone delt with TPH machine tools in Essex, was it a good experience?

I ask because on there website their only forms of communication seem to be email or mobile phone, which just doesn't sit right with me.

I've been looking around the forum and it seems to me most peoples lathes are 26mm or even less but you can't always tell what people use their lathes for so for those that use their lathes in connection with vehicle, tractor or stationary engine restoration what size spindle bore do you have and would a larger bore be more useful ?

Most of the older small used lathes I've seen have a 26mm bore but I see a lot of new far eastern lathes can be bought with a 38mm spindle bore but it is at a rather steep increase in price over a 26mm spindle bore lathe. Where a 38mm bore might be useful on occasion I'm wondering if it really warrants the extra money their asking ?.

Plus is the 38mm bore lathe offered at the expense of there being less material around the bore on the pulleys, cogs etc. that the bore passes through. As most of these lathes seem to be only available once imported actually getting to see and compare 26mm and 38mm bore lathes is hard.

Has anyone ever compared the internals of these lathes with the different bore sizes. Is a 38mm weaker than a 26mm ?

Yes, the whole which lathe to buy is confusing and frustrating, just as well I'm a stubborn bugger (at least that's what they tell me) or I might have given up months ago, Thanks for all the advice so far all a great help to getting me there in the end.

Some of you responded to my post about purchasing my first lathe, **LINK** and thank-you very much for the response, it all certainly helped.

Unfortunately life, as it often does got in the way of me ploughing on and making a purchase but things are back on track now. I'm sort of glad I didn't make my purchase earlier as I was leaning heavily towards a new eastern foreign type lathe, even though it was against my nature to spend any large amount of money on modern eastern foreign type tools.

So now I've finally made my mind up, (probably) to look for a Myford 7 or if lucky a super 7, My reasoning is for this would take to long to explain here, so I won't. But I find I need to seek further wisdom from the lathe gurus so here I am again with a few questions I'd like help with, please.

I looking to go for a reconditioned or known good condition used dealer machine. The thing is getting the lathe will use most of my budget so some accessories will have to wait and I'm wondering what is the parts and accessories availability like for these machines, are new bits still being produced for them or is it all second hand ?

Also which accessories would you consider must haves for someone starting out and will be learning from a lot of practice, I'm referring to accessories that are related to and only fit this type of lathe, like steadies etc?.

I don't know if I'll be lucky enough to get a gearbox and as I want to eventually cut threads I'm going to need a set of gears, but how many is a set ?

Or am I right in thinking if the lathe has a gearbox gears won't be needed and maybe it is better to look for a gearbox. What other advantages would having a gearbox have ?

And finally, (cries of relief), for those of you that have one of these lathes, How much space do you find is a comfortable amount to have around the lathe, It will go back to a wall with working stand off but how much space is needed either end ?

Thanks for any help you can give me on these points.

Thanks very much for all the advice it has certainly helped me clear up a few points.

Good point that Bill, I thought I'd solved the new used question but now its food for thought again. Although the

availability of accessories in the future troubles me as with cars the older they get the harder it is to get parts.

Anyone have that problem, with lathes not cars ?

Does anyone know if there companies that sell reconditioned used lahtes ?

Edited By coggy clapsaddle on 05/12/2018 17:15:32

Sorry I didn't put my location on the post though as Martin puts it, it is in Lumpy Lincolnshire (I like that expression), I'm always weary of putting my location on the web so lets just say south Wolds area.

The lathe would go in my existing workshop/garage, sitting at the end of the drive, concrete floor, brick walls, insulated well lit, this is where I use my woodworking machines and they survive pretty well, though I do take care of them with regular cleaning and oiling down. My dad always taught me “take care of your tools and they will take care of you”. I have an 1 ton engine crane to help with lifting.

I was going to site the lathe on an existing wooden bench built from 4”x4” timber and bolted to the wall and I was going to brace it up with welded up metal brackets made from 1 ½ angle. It doesn't move as it is and I run a planner and grinder on it currently. It is certainly far more sturdy than the clarke lathe stands I've seen, By the way I ruled out clarke lathes long ago. I have some clarke stuff from fifteen or so years ago and it has lasted but I wouldn't touch it now, seems standards have fallen.

I realise the older western machines are better, my bandsaw is older than me and I'm knocking on the door of fifty and I'm sure it will still be around when I'm long gone. But I think used lathes with me not knowing much about them and not having access to knowledgable people is to bigger risk for me, as said it is a one off, unlikely to be repeated purchase for me so new with a warranty and easily to get hold of accessories is appealing.

I mentioned my pillar drill in passing as reference to drilling holes for which I find the cross vice handy when drilling multiple holes in one piece. I'd never attempt to mill with it and I'm sorry if I gave that impression.

I wasn't accepting someone to pop up and say I need this or that lathe and I know there will always be some form of limitations to any machine. But your advice so far and a big thank-you for it has thrown up another matter for me to think about.

The case of a metric or imperial machine is one point I need some help with. Firstly are imperial machines marked out only in imperial or also metric ? I can work in Imperial but I was one of the early generations to be schooled in metric and so that is my auto reference fall back system, if you know what I mean. Having said that though most threads I deal with when restoring vehicles are imperial, Whitworth mostly and the biggest would be 1" WW. So my thread cutting will mostly be imperial but my head tends to default to metric so any stand alone item I may make would properly be metric thread, If you can understand my thinking there. So which would be better a Metric or Imperial lathe ?

Another point I'm not to sure about is bore size, How does it effect your machines usability. Most lathes I've looked at are 26mm and I wouldn't go smaller than that, Is that a good size for general use ?

Hi all, I'm in Lincolshire, the hilly bit, it's not all flat you know.

I'm new to metal working with a lathe so looking to learn everything I can. This seems to be an excellent forum with nice members willing to share their experience and offer sensible advice,so it looks like I'm in the right place. Thanks for having me.

I'm a complete beginner when it comes to metal working with a lathe, it wasn't even done at my school so apart from a couple of goes (under instruction) at reducing washers on a friends basic old lathe I have little experience of a metal lathe.

Using a wood lathe is second nature to me but apart from common safety aspects and the names of certain parts of the lathe the two seem to be two separate disciplines.

For many years I've been a keen restorer of classic cars, stationary engines and tractors and have worked metal in many ways except turning it. I have wanted to learn this skill for years and decided to take the plunge and buy a lathe.

I've been reading about the subject for a couple of years, talked to people and looked at the internet and have learnt some interesting things but all this information I have gathered has only confused me as to which lathe to get. I know it has been asked many times before on here and some of the replies have proved useful but I'm still needing some expert guidance so yet again I'm afraid I'm going to have to ask the question which lathe.

This is going to be a one off purchase, I doubt very much I'll have the money to purchase another lathe again in the future so I want to get it right in terms of value for money, machine reliability, good customer service and easy of getting those add on extras later, ability to learn on the lathe but also have the scope to carry out work once experienced without having to buy another bigger lathe.

A few facts I've learned, and please correct me if you think different, is this. With not having knowledge of metal lathes I'd be better off buying new as used is to bigger risk and with my budget of £1500 could push to £2000ish for right lathe I'm looking at good quality foreign machines.

Space wise, I'm looking to fit within 1.3m length wise, run on 240V mains, Making my own bench, not a problem, to sit it on as I'd sooner put stand money into the lathe and I'd need get all the basic extras and tooling within the budget.

I have ruled out lathe/mill combos, I have a decent floor standing pillar drill with cross vice and would later look at getting a milling machine but I'd like to be able to do some basic milling on the lathe to start with but tooling for that side of things can be bought later.

The main use would be for learning on, tool making, making parts for cars/tractors etc., thread cutting metric and imperial ability a must and maybe some model making in the future.

I think I'm right in going for the largest centre height and distance between centres I can get but I don't want to sacrifice machine quality for it.

I think power cross feed would be better. A thread dial indicator is a must have. Metal gears is a must.

I'm unsure about DRO, what are the advantages of it and I'm unsure about the advantage of inverter drive.

The lathes I'm currently looking at are Warco as they seem to come with a good selection of accessories, seem to have good customer service and test and set up the lathe before sending, which I think would be a good advantage to a beginner. I was thinking maybe the WM 250V Lathe Inverter Drive Variable Speed **LINK** or would the DRO model **LINK** be worth the extra money or would the WM 280V Lathe Inverter Drive Variable Speed **LINK**be a good choice with the extra distance between centres but I'm unsure I'd need a centre distance that big.

I also looked at the Amadeal AMA250AVF-750 Lathe (10x30) Variable Speed - Power Crossfeed **LINK** but I'm put off by poor customer service reputation a friend experienced with them.

I'm not sure about whether any of the above have all metal or plastic gears. Does anyone have these machines what are they like and is it plastic or metal geared ?

Sorry to go on for so long but I tried to give all the information I thought relevant. So can anyone offer their experienced opinion on this or know of a better lathe to suit my needs, am I on the right track or have I just been spouting rubbish ?

Any help will be very muc