Member postings for Ian George 1

I'm starting to get a collection of "valuable learning experiences" 🙂

Hello All, I have now purchased a 50t and two 21t (because someone somewhere suggested this was the answer). My original journey down this road was because there are a lot of suggestions that you don't need to stick to the recommended list Myford provide inside the change wheel cover, but, I have found out that you do need to stick to it with the ML 10 (without further modification to the lathe) I tried quite few different combination from the list I printed out from a change wheel calculator web site, I tried a few that might have fitted but didn't quite, I even considered making two non keyed bushed that were a loose fit so that I could pop the gears on and off until I found one off the extensive list that fitted. After a few goes at this I realised that someone far more enlightened than myself has done the calculations for the theoretical and physical gear ratios for the ML10, during this process I realised it's far quicker to order the right gears than to mess about reinventing the change wheel.

But thank you all for your help and suggestions, I've no doubt that many would have worked, but with my limited experiance it was far quicker to buy a solution to my problem.

If nothing else I've learnt a lot, although I can't help thinking that I would have done better spending time all this time trying to get my head around the change wheel calculation instead of looking for a quick fix.

Thank you all, what a great helpful lot you all are.

I have a 1947 Matchless competition trials G3L 350, a 1941 Matchless G3L 350 dispatch riders bike, a 1954 Royal Enfield trials 350 Bullet and a 1961 Triumph twin trial competition bike. All are running apart from the trials Matchless as that is undergoing restoration.

The lathe is all about being able to aid this and other work related projects rather than becoming a hobby.

I’ve only carried out screw cutting on fairly coarse external imperial threads so far, I’m investigating internal threads at the moment but with the full understanding that trying to learn an engineering trade overnight, just isn’t going to happen.

I expect plenty of mistakes and a large collection of “scrap” that “ might come in handy” before I achieve anything.

Clive, who would our favourite supply site be?

I'm based in aldershot, hampshire. My interest is old motorcycles and I expect to be only making the odd spacer etc, however, I read up on screw cutting and had a go cutting a 1/2" bss thread and got the basics, obviously I ruined a few by making basic mistakes but I got the General principles.

Oh yes.......back to the start now, I can't try it out because I'm limited to a 25t first driver wheel. Perhaps I should have paid attention to the myford guide that Mick has mentioned, it does say that "other change wheels may be required" Perhaps it would be better to spend some time understanding the calculations a bit more. What did you mean about using the bottom Drummond set?

Thanks Bazyle, yes I do have that combination. I will try it tomorrow and post back my results.

Thank you both very much for your help, I do have the change wheel information supplied by myford and it gives me the detail that you mentioned Clive. I think my journey with this started when I read somewhere that that sequence wasn't the only one available, the reason I looked was that I don't have two 50t change wheels and I wondered if I could use a different combination with what I had. Then I just got completely lost.

Best idea seems to get another 50t or a 100t as suggested by Bazyle.

Thank you both for your help

I have a Myford ML10. The first gear is fixed via a thread to the mandrel. Is this classed as the 1st driven gear? I ask because I have been trying to find out the change wheel combination to cut a 2.0mm thread on my ML 10. I got confused trying to understand how to calculate what I need and then found a few charts and calculators. However, I get results that suggest Driven 32 25 Driver 63 20 (these are not actual results, just an indication). If the fixed 25 tooth gear is the first driver then I have to have a result that has 25 as a driver.

Sorry if this has been asked before but everything I’ve read so far seems to relate to lathes with a reverse tumbler that drives a “changeable” first driven gear. Would someone please confirm that the fixed gear is the first driven gear and that I should ignore any other combination unless the first driven gear is 25.

Hope this makes sense.

The ML 10 is imperial with an 8tpi lead screw

Hello All, I am a complete novice and have no real expectations of carrying out any very delailed work. I have been given a Myford ML10 and have been learning to screw cut. All going well so far but I do have a few questions, fortunatly I’ve found a wealth of information and knowledge on here. So a big thank you for all the help I’ve already had without asking.