Member postings for ian voller

Thanks for all the advice guys but after some thought I think I will go with a brushed finish.

I am building this as an engineering project for my own personal satisfaction, not as a public display item so while I want it to look smart I don't think a brilliant shiny finish is a necessity.

The ball plate is made in individual sections 1/16" thick brass instead of a solid plate as in the picture.

My thoughts on the belt sander were that I can mount it upside down in my vice so its easy to use, as i can alter the speed it will also be safer. I can get many different types of belts in many grades including just felt so I don't see any problems using it apart from the price of the belts, around for £40 for ten of each grade.

While I wait for some tools I decided to polish some of the brass work in the Congreve Rolling Ball clock, like the ball plate in the clock, this is 1/16" engraving brass and needs a high polish, I was thinking of using my belt sander with suitable belts so can anyone give me an idea of the type to use and the method?

Thanks John yes I have ER32 imperial and metric collets, 6mm bolt it will be, my old Acorn lathe doesn't do metric threads.

thanks so I need an R8 arbour that will take a 7mm bore cutter, more expense.

Sorry double post for some reason

Edited By ian voller on 03/04/2022 20:19:39

thanks so I need an R8 arbour that will take a 7mm bore cutter, more expense.

PP Thorntons site askes you to select module and leaves? Putting "Gear leaves" into google just shows green leaves is "leaves" the tooth count? The site also doesn't show bore size, anyone know what it is?

Suffolk born and bred, strong in the arm thick in the head.

thanks for the link to GEARDXF Andrew.

Ivans Laws book is on order although I am more practical, I need to see and get my hands on it to understand it, books just don't do it for me.

JW machined his gears screwed to wood as a backplate, so I will use a similar method.

I think I am getting a handle on this, using the calculator posted by sillyolduffer I can use a .75 module cutter instead of a DP 34 and the od will be roughly the same.

It would also be sensible as suggested to only by the sizes kneeded.

What's the most Popular cutter bore size to buy as I haven't bought the R8 arbour yet.

Thanks for all the replies guys, they are much appreciated.

Sounded so simple to me on first thinking about cutting them, just buy a DH and a cutter and job done. Wrong!

As long as the tooth count is correct and the od of the gears is similar it doesn't matter whether I use DP or module.

So am I correct in think that changing the module/DP but keeping the same tooth count varies the od of the gear.

The clock is a Congreve rolling ball clock, the plans are by John Wilding.

The two 34 DP gears mesh together, the others mesh with 10, 12 and 19 pin bobbins so I guess it doesn't matter much how they are form as they only mesh with brass pins.

If I buy a set of 8 cutters is there a best type to buy for future projects?

I am now at the stage of cutting the gears for my clock, I have a mill and the dividing head is arriving next week, but cutters to buy?

I have never cut gears, even during my apprenticeship or college, a good bit of googling has answered some questions while leaving me bemused over others.

What's the difference between modules? .5 .75 .1

I need to cut 4 gears , 120 teeth X 34 DP

120t X 42DP, and two 68t X 34 DP

Now I roughly understand DP but not what the different module sizes mean. Will a group of say module .5 cutters cut the same as a group of 1 cutters? Does it matter what module size I get?

With the cost of cutters I don't what to make a expensive mistake.

Same year and course that I did Colin, except I then did a 9 week block release from Reavells every year for 4 years at college. Don't remember a 40 hour exam but then I don't remember what I did yesterday.

You are happy with the way you do it Dave which is all that matters, I am happy with the way I do it, I don't say you're wrong but it's not my way, so I will fit a reducing collar to locate on the register as Acorn tools intended.

After a Google I realise this subject has been done to death before on here, with supporters on both sides with out a resolution.

I only asked whether Loctite would be suitable for holding the collar in, and it appears it is

Here is a link to a previous discussion.

https://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=74991

If I don't get it running true on the register my new 3 jaw will run out, if it was a 4 jaw independent that might be acceptable but not for me on a 3 jaw.

I want to fit a new 3 jaw chuck to my old lathe, the spindle thread is 11/2" x8tpi which is the same as Boxford.

The Boxford backplate which I have just bought screws on fine but the register is about 5thou bigger, so I want to bore the BP out and fit a reducing collar, my first thought was to make it oversize then heat the BP, cool the collar and squeeze them together, but I wonder if Loctite might be a simpler option?

Anyone got any thoughts?

Thanks for the welcome guys, I live in Kesgrave now, it's between Ipswich and Woodbridge.

Not worried about the accuracy of the lathe, as you say you just make allowances, it's materials that worry me, 2 sheets of engraving brass 12x18x1/8" and 4 1"dia 12" brass £278!