Member postings for Ron Laden

Yep, just had confirmation that TWO Muncaster wheels are being posted, why I had a not available on the first one yesterday I have no idea.

The frame casting machined up well.. a nice curved fillet around the feet when fitted should add some more of a casting look.

I think I may have two Muncater flywheels on the way. I ordered one yesterday morning which was confirmed then a message a couple of hours later to say not available. So I ordered one yesterday afternoon which again was confirmed but looking in my Ebay both of them are showing as ordered..? Anyway if both arrive its fine as they are nice wheels and I,m sure a subject could be found in the future for the second one..

Glad you mentioned another one has been listed Bill, the one I ordered this morning is not available so have gone for the one showing at the moment. Dont know if I will get it or not, if not I hope Lee runs some more at some point.

Ron

I rather like the look of the naked engine, the cladding looks good for sure but I think naked especially if the cylinder was brass would also be very nice.

Ron

Hi Bill, I actually bought it a couple of hours ago but thanks for the heads up.

Ron

OK then maybe I wont

Just for future reference Jason I read in your Muncaster build notes that you use a brake cylinder hone, I looked at those on line but thought they wouldnt be suitable for model cylinders thinking they would be to coarse and went on to make the nylon lap I used. If I had thought about it more a brake cylinder needs a super fine finish so I guess the hone must come with very fine stones, I will look into getting one.

Starting final assembly or at least to the testing stage prior to paint, first job is fill the frame ends and fixing holes to lose the made from bar stock look. Yes I know its wood filler but I have used it in the past on numerous materials, its good, quick drying, dosent shrink or crack and easy sand.

I also lapped in the exhaust valve this morning, the inlet valve seat is in the screw in brass inlet seating which is fine but the exhaust seat is machined into the cylinder body which in my case is aluminium. I noticed that there was some very slight chatter in the seat face so lapped it out.

I should have read your thread Jason, I see the drawings for the Entablature are spread over a number of magazines and I dont take ME, thats ok will look for something else.

Jason, I have been thinking that maybe I should get another engine under my belt before venturing into a hit and miss so once the Jowitt is finished I am going to have a go at your Muncaster,s Entablature Engine.

I do think it a handsome engine and I think I will be ok with it, the only thing is I dont take ME only MEW. I will obviously need the drawing set are they ordered through ME.?

Ron

Thanks Jason, I will carry on just hope I havnt gone too deep at 19.2mm, I see yours is ok at 19.44.

One thing I meant to ask, is there any danger of the bottom of the piston touching the cylinder wall when fitted with just the top ring. It crossed my mind as if it did mine would be alu to alu but looking at your picture yours doesnt appear to have done that.

Morning Jason

I have hit a problem or at least I think I have, yesterday I honed the cylinder and managed a good finish from end to end. This morning I thought I would try the piston with the two O rings fitted to see how it was looking but it was way too tight. I checked the dimensions, the cylinder is 24mm at the crank end and 23.99 at the other, the piston is 23.95. The O ring grooves were spot on as per the drawing 19.4 dia and 2.6 wide and the O rings are to the size recommended.

I removed the lower ring just leaving the top one and it was a bit easier but still too tight. I bit the bullet and reduced the ring groove from 19.4 to 19.3 and it was a bit easier but still too tight so took the grove down to 19.2 and easier still and thats where I am now. Having no experience of this I dont quite know what fit I should be looking for with O rings. I can slide the piston back and forth but there is some resistance which I would expect but is it too much..?

I watched your video a while back where you showed a piston slowly creeping down the cylinder under its own weight, cant remember if that was an O ring piston but if it was mine will not do that.

Can you advise what I should be looking for fit wise.

Ron

Well it worked fine, couldnt see why it wouldnt got a nice fit between the cylinder and piston I finished with 1200 grit so have a nice surface for the O rings to run on. I think I may well use nylon for any future cylinders.

A bit of an experiment that I hope will work, I have made a lap for honing the cylinder. I used a piece of wooden dowel on the little Muncaster cylinder which worked fine and I was going to do the same on the Jowitt but I have no suitable sized dowel or anything close other than metals.

So I have turned up a piece of 66 nylon to size and hope it will do the job, will let you know.

I did consider some means of fitting the magnet to my lathe and mill but found the one on the mill stays in place at max speed 2500rpm so I havnt bothered and they have never come off.

The flywheels complete the parts list, now the fun begins or at least I hope it does..

I dont know what size of magnets come with the tacho you ordered but I fitted one to my SX2P mill and one to my lathe.

The supplied magnets with mine are 10mm dia x 2mm thick and weigh next to nothing, so small and lightweight it didnt even enter my head the need for a counter balance and both machines run as smooth as I could wish for.

Thanks for the pointer Jason, I had some 2.5, 3 and 4mm nuts arrive today from Polly models and as you say smaller and taller hex and excellent quality they really look the part, miles better than the every day off the shelf type.

Thanks Jason, understood.

Hi Jason, there is a thread running at the moment on HMEM of a Kerzel build but the guy is making changes and doing his version, there was a post from someone building a double size version but sounds as if he has just doubled the sizes on the original and not using the Julius drawings.

The guy doing his own thing has led me to a question (sorry) the original has a liner, piston and rings all in C/I but he was going with iron liner bronze piston and steel rings. Later in the thread he says he is now going with Viton X O rings which surprised me in an IC engine.

Anyway it led me to thinking is an aluminium un-lined cylinder possible in a IC hit and miss engine and if so what material for the piston and rings or is it best to stay with the C/I for all three.

Ron

Should it be of interest I just phoned M-machine metals and they are still open for business at the moment and are hoping to stay open which is good news, I would assume if they are open other stockists may well be open to.

Edited By Ron Laden on 25/03/2020 13:40:46