Member postings for Ron Laden

Hi Jack which model is your Warco mini lathe..?

Thanks Andrew, the advice is much appreciated.

Ron

Thanks Dave,

I need to make some guide rollers for the loco using 1 inch Nylon 6 bar, I have read that a very sharp HSS tool with a 1/16" tip radius makes a good tool for the job. What about speed..? I can experiment of course but wondered what would be a good starting point.

Ron

Well I have an appointment with my doctor in the morning and I guess I am probably lucky but I have to say that our GP is excellent. I know he wont fob me off, he listens, asks lots of questions, and explains things in detail, he is not one who goes straight to the computer to see what pain killers to give you and then sends you on your way. If any tests are needed he will set all of that up and follow it up afterwards.

The best doctor I have ever had by a long shot.

Ron

What amazes me about gout is the speed in which it comes along without any indication or symptoms that its on its way. Well that is how its been with me, also my attacks are always at night. I go to bed absolutely fine and less than 5 hours later I wake with a foot feeling like its been hit with a sledge hammer.

Cant wait to get to the doctors.

I have seen recommendations for staying with HSS tooling on the minlathe whilst others seem to use carbide just as often as HSS if not more.

To add to my selection of tooling I got myself and 8mm index tipped tool from Arceuro with a set of the 060-204 tips.

Despite my gouty hand at the moment I gave the new tool a try this morning turning a piece of 10mm steel bar. Just a simple test but it seemed to work fine. I have read that the tipped tools need to work harder so I ran the bar at 1600 rpm, dont know if that was about correct for 10mm bar and a tipped tool but I guessed at it. I gave a finishing cut of 2 thou and it seemed to be a decent finish, probably not quite as good as HSS but ok.

Would appreciate thoughts on the tipped tools and minlathes.

Ron

Chris, it may not be all bad news then.

Rik, thats ok I dont mind changing from wine to whisky..lol

Edited By Ron Laden on 15/07/2018 09:27:50

Edited By Ron Laden on 15/07/2018 09:28:16

Thanks guys,

The foods you mention are my favourites too, but if they have to stop then so be it.

The really really bad news I read is that beer is not good at all for gout, does this mean I cant have the odd pint of my favourite real ale....oh no I cant bear the thought...lol

Ron

Thanks pgk, I will talk diet to my GP.

Having said that I thought my diet quite balanced, I dont eat junk food and eat a lot of fruit and veg but obviously something is not helping.

Ron

Thanks clogs and John,

Yes I will make an appointment Monday, actually when I went to the doctors it wasnt my normal doctor.

I,m sure if I see my own GP he will sort it, he is very good.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 15/07/2018 08:01:32

About six months ago I went to bed one evening feeling fine, no aches or pains, I was feeling good. However I woke in the early hours and my left big toe and surrounding area was extremely painful, it felt as if I had stubbed my toe on something solid or dropped a heavy weight on it. It was so painful I struggled to stand on it and it was even worse trying to walk on it.

I couldnt understand it and tried to ignore it for a couple of days but it didnt improve so went to see my doctor. They took a blood sample to double check but he said he was quite sure I had Gout. Gout is an arthritic condition, apparently our bodies naturally have Uric Acid but if the acid builds to high levels crystal can gather and form around your joints causing anything from mild to severe pain.

He gave me a course of tablets and after a couple of days it was gone but he did say it can come back. Well a couple of days ago it did come back but this time it is also in my right hand. I have pain from my finger tips back to my wrist, clenching my fist or moving my fingers is damn painful. Having it your feet is one thing but to have it in your hands is a nightmare, I struggle to pick anything up, operate a door handle or even lift a cup of tea.

So I will be back to the doctors and I do remember him saying that a change of diet can help and long term it may mean "steroids"....thats just great.

Hope you guys dont have it or get it, its not much fun and to have it in your hands is seriously bad news.

Ron

Edited By Ron Laden on 15/07/2018 07:34:37

It was always my understanding that you can machine oilite but the cutting tools used need to be "very" sharp, sharp tools will keep the oilite structure open but dull tools will rub them closed. I also read that reaming is generally not recommended, however if its needed it can be done but again only with a very sharp tool.

Edited By Ron Laden on 14/07/2018 21:04:15

Whatever they do, how are they going to police it..? Its like the chemicals/flammables etc that the post office and carriers say they no longer carry. You can go online and order almost all of it and the supplier will pack it and send it, how are the carriers to know whats in the parcel. Last week I ordered a litre bottle of ISO 99% and it arrived in a taped up cardboard box, no problem.

Ron

I set the chassis up on the garden table and ran it for a couple of hours this afternoon to bed things in. It certainly didnt seem as noisy outside of the shed out in the open. I also thought it a bit quieter after the couple of hours running but that could have been wishful thinking on my part...lol.

I am going to carry on with it as is and see how it turns out when loaded and running on a track. When I say its noisy, its not horrendous, its just a bit more "clunky sounding" than I expected yet the drive train run smoothly enough.

Ron

Hi Tim,

I have a friend who owns a MGB and I helped him with one or two restoration jobs on the car. He painted the engine and used e-tech engine enamel. I remembered the name as he gave me some bits and bobs at the time which were in the cardboard box the paint tin came in.

He swears by the paint and seeing it a couple of weeks back it looked as good as the day he painted it which is over a year ago. I just checked Tim and put "engine enamel paint" into ebay and you can find it there, 250ml tins in various colours.

I have never used the paint and can only tell you of my friends experience with it, but it may help.

Ron

I come on here to see and chat MODEL ENGINEERING, I dont want to see POLITICS, RELIGION and the like, this is not the place for it. I think any post that shows or states a persons Political or Religious views or leanings should be deleted.

Ron

Hi Jeff,

Thanks, yes the gears are from the same supplier Bearing Boys Ltd (excellent service). Both the pinion and the spur are MOD1 so the mesh should be good. The pinion is steel and the large spur is plastic and I have given them a light coat of lithium based grease. I dont know what the norm is for setting up gears but I used a thin piece of paper which measured 0.004" and placed that between the gears when securing the motor screws. I just wanted to make certain that I didnt have the gears too heavily meshed. The track I will be running on is a raised one so it will be interesting to find how it sounds.

Hi Bazyle,

The large gear is plastic and as I mentioned to Jeff I have lightly greased the gears with lithium grease but that sounds as if it is not a good idea if there is a lot of muck that could be picked up. The track I will be running on is raised, I,m guessing that it is probably a bit cleaner than ground level but I dont know. I can make a cover to shield the motors but allow a small gap to allow them some airflow.

Ron

Hi Neil, I ran a folded piece of paper between the gears then slackened and re-tightened the fixing screws and it did help a bit, thanks for that.

Hi Dave, I sat the chassis on a sheet of polystyrene and it did take away some of the noise. There is a 0.5mm gap between the end of the motor plates and the tie bars but I think you are correct in the noise been generated by the motor plates. If I hold onto the plates whilst running the noise does reduce a bit plus the sound changes. Also I think the plates are as you suggest conducting the sound into the frame, if I press each axle box the sound reduces a bit.

Tomorrow I am going to run the drive for a couple of hours just to see if things bed in and if that makes any difference. I will run it outside on the garden table so I can see how it sounds outdoors without me standing over it.

Thanks guys

Ron

Good News/Bad News

The good news: The drive is all fitted and works very well. I was aiming for 632 rpm at the wheel for a top speed of 6 mph. On the bench the max rpm is 825 but unloaded of course so hopefully about right when loaded.

The bad news: Although the drive works well enough it is noisy and too noisy for my liking. I appreciate that I am standing directly over it and it is in the confines of a small workshop. Maybe loaded outside on a track it wouldnt be so bad or so noticeable. I am wondering if the motor mounting plate is too light, its currently 3mm steel . In hindsight (which is a wonderful thing) I am wondering if it would have been better in 6mm steel or 6mm alu. Plus the central axle bearing is an oilite, would that have been better as a ballrace.

I think I have 3 options: 1) live with it and see how it is on the track, though I am a bit reluctant to do that. 2) Un-press one of the wheels (each axle) and produce a heavier duty version of the motor plate, though this is only based on my assumption that a HD version would improve things. 3) Try and figure a way of adding something or a mod which would reduce the noise.

Will have to give it some thought, though I am pleased with the working of the drive.

Ron

My take on some simple spring locators, turned them up from 1/2" alu. They have a 10mm spigot up into the spring with just a tad of clearance. The other end of the spring locates into a 10mm deep hole in the axle box. Spring strength is guess work so hoping they are about right, If not I have a heavier set that I can fit.