Member postings for larry phelan 1

It should be easy enough to get a pulley from a good supply store,they are a standard item,then just bore it out,since the lathe is still working. For a lathe that size,a good grub screw should be more than enough,never mind a key.

The pulley on the motor of my saw bench has only a grub screw keeping it in place and has never worked loose in the last 50 years.

Thanks very much Not -Done-it-Yet,I knew there was someone out there who had been down that road before !

Hi Everyone,

I was unlucky enough to break one of the teeth on the back gear cluster of my Craftsman lathe,some time ago,while trying to remove the chuck [OK,I know it has happened before and will again,but not to me I hope ]

What I want to know is ,can I repair this by welding with a cast iron rod or even brazing or failing that,even plastic metal ?

I had to replace the gear unit to get the machine running again,but the repaired unit might come in handy at some later stage,should I drop a clanger again !

Thanking you for any advice.

Might be a bit late in replying to Rik Shaw,but when I made my elevating barrow,I never thought how useful it would prove to be. Not only does it do all the heavy lifting around the shop,but it is ideal for lifting 45KG bags of coal from my van to my store,no way could I handle those now,those days are gone ! Also,when my nabour was replacing his built-in oven recently,it proved to be ideal for handling the unit,no pulling or pushing,no grunting or cussing,just a smooth lift all under control.

So,it might be well worth while building one,you will find a new use for it every day.

Regarding the hoist,I would be inclined to use a piece of heavy wall box section or a piece of small section RSJ for the upright,neither of them would be too dear and no way will they bend or flex under load.

Sorry if this post is a bit late,but this would be my approach to the problem,since my back is not much better.

As Rik Shaw says, you need to do a few test runs on that stuff. From experience I have found that one sample is never enough to be sure,you must take several samples. The downside is that by the time you have reached a verdict,there,s nothing left for cooking,but if you,re still standing,then it must be OK.

I have carried out this test many times,and it has never failed,but cannot say the same for the cooking !

PS I found a Christmas pud in my freezer,during a recent defrost,been in there for the last two years,never tasted better ! So,be brave !

Seems to be a case of "Some good,some bad",but a supplier should know what he has in stock these days.

As regards phone call costs !!!! dont even mention it,buttons one way,an arm and a leg the other !

The same with delivery charges,perhaps the water is deeper between England and Ireland than between Ireland and England,because there,s a hell of a difference between the rates. Some suppliers are happy to use 2nd class Royal Mail,others seem to favour Brinks,to judge by their charges.

Of course we need more guns in the "Good-Ole-USA" We gotta defend ourselves against the enemy !!!

Not too sure who that is,but we gotta be ready ,Yes sir ! If you dont believe it,ask our Leader !!

The answer is not fewer guns but MORE !!. Everyone should be obliged to carry a gun [just to protect himself against the "Enemy,of course ] Even teachers and schoolkids should carry them.

Would it work ? who knows,but since our Leader suggested it,it,s worth a try,I suppose.

I hope that book is not wrong,otherwise I,m in trouble !! That book is my Bible !!

Any body who drinks and drives should be put off the road for all time,full stop,no second chances ! Their cars should be crushed as should be the cars of anyone foolish enough to provide them with cars.They should also be locked up for at least ten years,during which they should be required to attend every major road crash involving drink driving.

Needless to say,they should never,never be allowed on the road again,and I mean NEVER.!

I,m sick and tired reading and listening to the crap I hear about this scum,day after day,many a good dog was put down for far less, Make no mistake about it,they are nothing more than SCUM.!

I too have a tin of solder paste which I dig out from time to time for a small job. When I do,I usually find it has dried out hard [so would you if you were left on a shelf that long ] However ,a few drops of water works wonders,just break up the paste as best you can,then just add water and stir !. I helps if you remember to try and seal the tin until next time,although I seldom do. I think the paste I have is made by Fry,it,s in a small blue tin with a screw cap.

If you got the machine for nothing,I would not bother arsing around changing motors ect. Talk to Transwave,buy a rotary converter and forget about messing about,that,s what I did,and never looked back Over time,the cost will be buttons and at least you will be up and running

Sam,you looking for a simple answer?, I discovered long ago that NOTHING in life is simple,not even gears.

As Tim say,s "useful stuff,oil"

You could use that extra cash to up-grade your workshop,just think of all the extra goodies you could buy.

OK,you might have to put a bit more to it,but still,it,s a start. After a few months you might be able to afford a brand new 6mm drill bit !! Just think of it !!!

Never had any dealings with Macc Models,but can vouch for Chronos. Never had any real problem with them,except that their delivery charge to Ireland is a bit steep,but I have found a way around that,through our Post Office Service.

But the service from Chronos is good,and fast.

As the Bard said "What,s in a name,plastic by any other name is still junk" [Or words to that effect ! ]

The amount of this stuff I have to get rid of after a shopping spell seems to get bigger each time. You cannot buy anything now that,s not "Double wrapped" sometimes more. It,s a case of "You pays to get it---you pays to get rid of it "

I seem to remember reading somewhere that of all the oil produced from the wells,very,very little ended up being used as oil,or fuel.Most of it ended up as plastic,which of course ended up being dumped [or sent to China,till they got fed up with it ]

When people went shopping years ago,they brought their own bags,so did not have to remove piles of wrappings,which they had no use for and did not need,in the first place.Why does your piece of cheese need to be wrapped up in two or three layers of plastic?,which you cannot open,anyway. Sometimes it,s easier just to eat the lot and let Nature take its course. Cheese,like many other foods should never be plastic wrapped.

Next time you come back from shopping,put the items you want to one side and the junk to the other and see which is the bigger pile. You might be surprised ! Remember also,you,re paying for it !

Yes Howard,that is another option, I think it is removable ,since it seems to be made from a different material,unlike the cast iron of the table.. Once out,it will stay out,a plain bore will do me,as long as it see,s-eye-to-eye with the rim.

I intend to stick with this now since it,s no use to me as it is.

I will keep you posted,good news or bad.

Watch this space !!

My thanks to you Vic,

I looked up U Tube as you suggested and while it did not answer my question [the table in question being a Vertex with a center bore,part of the table,not a press in unit ] it did make clear that this unit which is giving me trouble,is indeed a separate unit,which must come out. I will attack this again within the next day or two.

I am surprised that nobody else has come across this problem before. I might add that the Vertex table seems to be a better design than the Homage [could it be worse? ]

Just made a mess of this post again !

Michael,you are not intruding,far from it,all are welcome.

John, Like you I am not too interested in having an MT center,as long as the center is true to the table edge,that,s all that matters. In this case it is not,so the plan was to press out the bush and set the table up on the mill to correct the error,as advised. The problem is that I cannot get at the rear of the bush to press it out. I did try boring out the bush but it is hardened and I,m not sure that the boring bar could handle it.It did not seem too happy. If I thought I could bore the bush out,back to the cast iron of the table,I would do so and then set it up on the mill and proceed from there. I just thought that being able to remove the bush would make things easier.

I managed to dismantle most of the table but could not see how to remove this unit held in by four screws,which would suggest that it is a separate piece [indeed,it must be ]. If I cannot remove it,I will try again boring out the bush with a tipped tool.

I have tried to follow the suggestions offered in the previous thread without success which is why I am now at this point. Would it not be easier to just treat this as a new problem and move on from here?

You can rest assured that I am the same body. My computer problems will sort themselves out in time,they are not my main concern right now. I will still be thankful for any advice regarding the table. What I need to know is how to remove this center unit in order to gain access to the underside of the bush so that I can press it out.