Member postings for Zan

My sis lives in Auckland is so bad that it’s affecting her there in New Zealand , 2000 or so miles away. The sky is orange and stinks of smoke..

Bryan and Paul K . What grade did you use?

i will contact the sellers, but if people have actually used it on our situation the advice here is much better from the end user thanks for the link great help!  It’s packed with loads of info and it will take some digesting!

Paul L. , I have also used valve grinding compound on the cam operated stainless on bronze inlet valve seats ( there’s no exhaust in a uniflow) . I wasn’t happy with the possibility of embedding the abrasive which does not degrade in the same way as timesaver. In this position it’s actually directly in the cylinder., in any case I have no idea what the actual garage the “fine” and “coarse” is!

Edited By Zan on 06/01/2020 18:59:50

So has nobody used this stuff? Common fellers, give me some advice.....

Doubtful . It may work if you have the same 4 connections, but the ti software from clough42 is specific to the led n key board . My led n key board came in two days so why risk it?

have you got the stepper turning? Still working on mine, but I suspect a drippy joint on the interface board. I’m going to check the ti board with a led conjecture to the gpio

That’s exactly what I used to wire it up.

I think he mentioned removing the //. And adding it to another line So that depends on your own setup. I didn’t have time to fiddle yesterday so that’s the task for today! anything is worth a try. Thanks Phil.

Thanks Phi I think there’s a mention about this in the software loading video, l I’ll check that later but I used all the same connections as I did from the arduino which worked a while back , I think I’m common 5 v so by rechecking with the arduino I’ll be able to measure the voltages

by the way, the display connector pins projection under the board fouls and shorts onto one of the small jumpers on the ti board if it’s pushed fully home So don’t push it in. I’ll add some insulation here. This stopped the display working , interestingly, clough42’s board is inverted compared to ours with the power socket where our display connector is.

Got mine assembled n tested yesterday, did the ti board today.

Removing the switch covers was a nightmare!

All works with encoder in the drill giving correct rpm , but as yet I can’t get the stepper turning. No scope to see what’s happening at the outputs. I’ll have to check n recheck as well as checking stepper system with the arduino

so when it’s turning slowly I can then try voltages on the output pins with an analog meter , my digital is too slow and prob remove the micro steps in the ti settings fir a slower step n longer pulse. Then I’d be stumped

Mine arrived a week ago, dispatched on dec3. That was quicker than expected!

That’s it! Get a lever type since getting mine I use the plunger one only once a decade!. They are far more versatile, aided by their compact size and ability to move the lever to convenient positions. You can’t use a plunger type to work in a bore without inconvenient add on parts thus, turning it into a lever type!

Two points

1) recent tv program where the presenter got a phone number in seconds (via a net specialist) of a journalist who specialised in anti scam information. He was sent a text supposedly from Amazon saying they would ring in 20 mins which the presenter did, then asked the usual security details but stopped this half way through when he came clean. The victim was amazed he had been trapped so easily and it could have cost him a lot if it had been a scammer

2) our phone is on permanent answer phone.. scammers usually hang up when they hear “ Sorry, we are not at home” Most after the first word. Al” our friends know this and speak, and we pick up

Just found this thread and I wholeheartedly agree with this, a preview would remove the frequent edit info.

edit.     Just like this one like a number of mine for typos or silly auto fill 

Edited By Zan on 16/12/2019 23:14:27

I don’t think it’s really important as you only drive the saddle in one direction at a time so any backlash is catered for each time you change the direction it’s being moved. It is of course consistent in value. As ega says, adjust the nylock nut in any case

I agree with John about the possible problems with the er collet not running true, but perhaps an enquiry to a watchmaking forum would be a good idea. I believe most lathes use a draw in collet system which will not need anything like the force to close compared with an er collet. The disadvantage though is that they will only hold a single size of stock.

I think you are planning to make this for its own sake rather than using it as a working machine tool. Is that the case?

Here is the information from Tony Jeffree regarding stepper motors referred to in his cnc conversion. I have photographed and erased unrelated parts and numbers the images. It is part of a series he produced about converting a Taig mill to cnc in MEW Dec. 2006 I have discussed with Neil about presenting this info.

He deals with basic info and information simple methods how to assess the torque amp drive select stepper motors

I’m not posting the info here, but you can view it in my album called ..... Leadscrew.......

Servo or stepper?

Regarding blowlamp and his valuable info regarding servo motors, he I think is spot on with regard to full cnc esp on the cross slide fir maintaining accurate diameters. I do not think this is so important for the leadscrew alone. Time will tell. I have spare steppers, and driver systems and I will test them out first and replace with a servo if there seems to be a problem

It was difficult enough to get all the bores and 45 degree seats concentric in the first place, I think the only way to lap them is how we used to grind car engine valves, ie one pare against the other. This is why I want to use Timesaver, as it’s non- embedding and it wears down to nothing. Separate laps for these components would be very difficult to make and get a fit. But thanks.

See EIM from June 2015 to 2017

This is the piston for my uniflow engine which I am remaking, incidentally the full assembly has 23 individual pieces of metal including  the fixings!

My question is that I want to lap the fine machined valve heads of bronze into the piston body made from cast iron . So which do I get, the type for ferrous metals or for yellow metals?  In addition for those who have used itimesaver, which grade do you suggest for this task.   The piston is 1.75” diameter

Edited By Zan on 12/12/2019 17:32:45

Edited By Zan on 12/12/2019 17:34:48

That’s the way John I did that recently. But in answering the main question, you have to withdraw the leadscrew to remove the apron. After removing the right bracket, which will be achieved by bending the screw outwards to get the bracket off the dowels. The problem is re assembly. Briefly it goes like this

Edit.  Dratt .   I should have looked at the link before  writing an essay on the difficulty of refitting......deleted!

Edited By Zan on 10/12/2019 23:22:22