Here is a list of all the postings Ross Lloyd 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: WM18 CNC Mill Conversion |
29/06/2018 23:53:38 |
I missed off the quantities of each. Per line above: 1, 3, 2, 1, 1, 2 8.7Nm is for a potential 4th axis Ross |
29/06/2018 22:59:00 |
Posted by Muzzer on 29/06/2018 13:37:13:
I don't think you'll find many people advocating use of the std leadscrews. You simply can't make them accurately enough to give acceptable backlash whilst still being able to assemble the nut to the leadscrew. Even if they seem OK when brand new, they will soon bed in and you will have measurable backlash. The friction is also pretty high relative to ballscrews. Ballscrews are readily available from AliExpress and ebay for starters. It's one of the first things people usually buy when embarking on a conversion. Makes you wonder what else they have cut corners on? Check out the hundreds / thousands of conversions done on similar machines. I assume the generic design used by Warco is available under any number of other brand names. Murray Hi Murray! They do sell ballscrews, which again made me wonder. Maybe they were going for a minimal / low cost build, I don't know. This is the full listing: Stepper Motor 8.7Nm Nema34 £580 inc vat and postage. Good deal or no? Cheers Edited By Ross Lloyd 1 on 29/06/2018 22:59:31 |
29/06/2018 22:45:59 |
Posted by richardandtracy on 29/06/2018 16:13:05:
16mm dia x 5mm pitch x 700mm long ballscrew cost me £35 from China. Thread efficiency 85% compared to 35%, equivalent to more than doubling the motor torque while also almost eliminating backlash. Makes sense to do it. It also makes sense to do it yourself - then you know the machine inside-out, which will help if there are problems later. Regards Richard.
Thats quite reasonable. Did you look into 4th axis chucks (not sure if right term) by any chance? £200 seems to be about the going price but I am not sure if that should include a motor or not. |
29/06/2018 22:44:50 |
Posted by Martin Connelly on 29/06/2018 15:06:36:
As well as cutting backlash ball screws reduce the torque required from the motors which gives the choices of smaller motors or higher traverse speed. Also kits mean someone else is making a profit at your expense, it may be worth costing up doing everything yourself. It's not too hard and there are plenty with experience on this forum. The CNC cookbook website also has a lot of useful information for someone starting out in CNC. Martin C Thanks Martin I will have a look at that site |
29/06/2018 22:44:49 |
Posted by Martin Connelly on 29/06/2018 15:06:36:
As well as cutting backlash ball screws reduce the torque required from the motors which gives the choices of smaller motors or higher traverse speed. Also kits mean someone else is making a profit at your expense, it may be worth costing up doing everything yourself. It's not too hard and there are plenty with experience on this forum. The CNC cookbook website also has a lot of useful information for someone starting out in CNC. Martin C Thanks Martin I will have a look at that site |
29/06/2018 22:44:16 |
Posted by JasonB on 29/06/2018 13:40:25:
Or read the 2 part article in ME on converting a WM18 to CNC complete with ball screws that has recently been published Edited By JasonB on 29/06/2018 13:49:13 I do have those issues, which is the reason I am asking. It seemed odd to me that the company would not recommend ballscrews, and the replies are confirming their usefulness. If they can be bought cheaply online then thats not a massive issue. |
29/06/2018 11:57:48 |
Hi Anyone with experience of converting a WM18 mill to CNC know if its needs ballscrews? I have got a quote for a conversion kit but it seems they are suggesting I just use the existing lead screws. Does it not require ballscrews due to the backlash? Cheers |
Thread: Should a standard turning tool be mounted at a slight angle? |
27/06/2018 17:34:10 |
Posted by JasonB on 27/06/2018 14:31:17:
Posted by Ross Lloyd 1 on 27/06/2018 11:40:10:
I What's weird though is I bought a 12x12mm index tool holder, not amazingly expensive, about 20 quid from arc eurotrade. Using the supplied carbide tool it immediately had the same problems as the home brew tool did before, even when adding some angle. Makes me think there is something else I am doing wrong.
Can you post a photo of how you have the tool positioned, when cutting right an indexble tool should throw the swarf away from the finished surface so you must have something wrong. Also what material, speeds and feeds would help. Hi Jason It is throwing it away, but it feels like from time to time some of the chips get caught or go under the tool, which results in the swarf rubbing on the face. You can feel a clear grinding sensation through the handwheels. Is it possible this is just because I do not have the cross slide locked? This only happens with the index tool, which has a much smaller nose radius than my ground tool. The latter cuts really nicely now. Will try to get some shots too. |
27/06/2018 17:32:05 |
Posted by Mick B1 on 27/06/2018 12:48:30:
Posted by Ross Lloyd 1 on 27/06/2018 11:40:10:
... Am going to experiment with locking the cross slide, as it does seem super sensitive, as well as getting the tool overhang as small as possible. Cheers Yep, first thing to check. Lock all the slides except the one delivering the cut. If you get an improvement, check and adjust the gibs over as full a range of movement as you can. Hi Mick Thanks for the reply! Can you explain what you mean by checking it over a full range of movement? The cross slide just has a single allen bolt that you tighten. Should I expect it to have more play at different points along its length? Cheers! |
27/06/2018 17:29:42 |
Hi all Lathe is a Warco WM250V, manufacturer recommends and supplies 12x12mm tools for it. Material is EN1A Mild Steel. At 40mm diameter I started with the book-recommended 300 rpm, but this produced an awful cut. Increasing to 600 cleaned it up enormously. I have been slowly increasing to 1000+ once down to diameter which for this beginner project, designed to give you a lot of experience of just taking metal off (hence large starting diameter), is 12mm. That was with the original HSS tool, which when reground produced a lovely finish. Feeds I do not yet have a concept of how to gauge if hand feeding, I am just going with a constant pressure and no "I really don't like this" noises. Speeds have been the same for the new index tool with cabide, so I need to: 1) Higher speeds if using the Carbide 2) Locking the cross slide no matter what the tool I will try to get some shots of the tool mounting next time I get to turning. Cheers
|
27/06/2018 11:40:10 |
I reground the tool so it had more clearance angle on side and top rake, and added a little radius. Cuts MUCH more nicely now, beautiful smooth finish to the eye, slight ripples to the touch. What's weird though is I bought a 12x12mm index tool holder, not amazingly expensive, about 20 quid from arc eurotrade. Using the supplied carbide tool it immediately had the same problems as the home brew tool did before, even when adding some angle. Makes me think there is something else I am doing wrong. Am going to experiment with locking the cross slide, as it does seem super sensitive, as well as getting the tool overhang as small as possible. Cheers |
Thread: Hot lathe chips |
27/06/2018 11:33:38 |
Posted by Richard brown 1 on 27/06/2018 08:43:30:
I like to put oil on my shaper work and then watch it fire chips across the room that leave a very satisfying smoke trail like little rockets. yeah this is fun Ross |
25/06/2018 17:35:48 |
haha cheers chaps, knew I could rely on you And yep always have the safety specs on, I feel naked without them.
|
25/06/2018 15:57:38 |
Hello Is it normal for the chips to be hot enough to leave little burn pimples on your skin where they bounce off your arms / hands? The chips aren't blue, they are nice and silver. Is being prickled just part of the fun of turning? Cheers Ross |
Thread: Gear blanks - which materials, or where to buy? |
25/06/2018 13:52:33 |
Thanks Hopper, I have emailed CES to see what they say. I couldnt see 4" bar on the site, biggest was about 3 and a half. I think I will need about 4.5 inches anyway for all the cock ups Cheers Ross |
25/06/2018 11:49:19 |
Hi, thanks all for the replies. I am really wondering what kind of stock to buy. For example if I wanted to make a 4 inch bevel, I am guessing I would need a piece of solid 4 inch diameter stock, but most of the suppliers online seem to top out at 2". Would you usually buy a specific gear blank, and who would you get such a thing from? Google finds me lots of people that want to sell or make me gears, but not blanks unfortunately : ) Also is unlikely I will use the chuck, I want to make it "just cos" |
25/06/2018 01:16:39 |
I would like to have a crack at making a 3 jaw chuck, and am looking at the scroll / bevel gear component. I know they are usually all one piece making it very complex to make, so I am starting simple and just trying to figure it out step by step. If I wanted to make a bevel gear, what would be the stock material of choice, or are there dedicated gear blanks or castings you would need to buy? Ideally it would have the extra material on the reverse side for the scroll, and then I will probably need to find a CNC machine for the next step! Cheers Ross |
Thread: Recommend a mid- range vice please |
25/06/2018 00:35:44 |
Posted by Clive Foster on 23/06/2018 11:24:17:
One easily overlooked potential issue with the versatile vices is that the full length open channel makes it harder to use a Vee block on its side to adequately hold round work vertical. Something I do quite often as the VJ-400 has a ledge in front of the fixed jaw that is just the right size for my second best Vee blocks. Of course the open channel does provide more room to drop a taller job down through the jaws into the body of the vice. I need block to cover the ledge for that. Clive. Thank you for the comprehensive advice, and thats a great point about the vee blocks, The choice is bewildering |
25/06/2018 00:34:20 |
Posted by John Reese on 24/06/2018 01:36:33:
I have used numerous vises over the years. Early on they were all the type with the screw in line with the moveable jaw. I had constant problems getting my work seated against the bed of the vise due to the movable jaw lifting. In the 1970s I bought my first Kurt vise. I never have problems with jaw lift since that purchase. I have two Kurt clones on my Bridgeport clone and a "screwless" grinding vise on my RF45. I encourage everyone buying a vise to look at the Kurt clones or the "screwless" grinding vises. I do like the look of that design, hopefully I can find an affordable one. Thanks! |
25/06/2018 00:33:13 |
Posted by John Hinkley on 23/06/2018 08:13:18:
Ross, Up withe lark and I've taken a couple of pictures ..... John
Hi John Wow thanks so much for taking those shots for me! Do you need to make a special clamping arrangement or will bog standard vice strap clamps [I might be using an americanism there, if so please don't beat me with a rolled up union jack
Edited By Ross Lloyd 1 on 25/06/2018 00:36:55 |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.