Member postings for Noel Rieusset

Hello Everybody,

I have am in the process of building a Milling Spindle for the Vertical Slide of my Myford Super 7.

I have completed the spindle with two adjustable bearings on the cutting end, with two plain bearings on the pulley end. It has a No. 2 Morse taper to accept tooling.

I am driving it with a 500 Watt E cycle motor, with variable speed controller, it runs just great.

The set up shown which will be mounted on the cross slide has a center distance between the shafts of 250 mm.

Can anybody help me with an idea of driving the spindle with the motor...

But....

Allowing the vertical slide to be adjusted up and down.

Other than adjusting the centre distance with every height adjustment.

I put it to the brains trust.

Hi Simon and John.

Thank you everybody, loved the response, help is not so far away after all...

Here is a pic of the 65 casting used to cut the 63 tooth gear.

A trick I am now aware of.

This is the 65 casting used to cut the 63 tooth gear.

This is the other side of the gear which was face down in the box.

Next time I will count the number of teeth.

Thank you everybody

Noel

Well, well, well!

Thank you Frances and Brian,

Just ran out and counted the number of teeth, counted 63.

You are right Brian, it is cut from a blank with 65 cast into the relief. It has 63 stamped on the reverse, I didn't take it out of the box as I was in thread cutting mode...

I will have to clean them up, the set was never used and have some corrosion on the faces.

Thank you

Noel

Thank you both Hopper and Brian Wood.

I am making a shaft for a gear cutting head on my vertical slide,as I want to turn and cut without moving the gear.

I designed it with a 25 x 1.0 pitch thread as I advised above.

What I did was just change the thread to a 26 tpi, as I had to make the nut as well.

I seem to have an extra 60 and 65 tooth gear.

I will replace one 60 for the 63. Thank you for the packing list of gears.

I can keep the 65, as its can be used for cutting Diametral Pitches of...

23, 25, 27, 30, 46, 50, 54, 60, 92, 100, 108, 120.

What an exceptional little gearbox it is.

Thank you

Noel

Hello Everybody,

Yesterday I wanted to cut a 1mm pitch thread with my Myford Guick Change G/Box, Metric Conversion Set.

To my horror I discovered I did not have a 63 tooth gear needed, however in the box containing all the parts every cavity had a gear in it, and when I purchased it second hand I thought it was complete.

Also strangly enough the Myford G/Box booklet mentions "12 changewheels",

I have twelve plus a 30T with the quadrant?

I have shown my gears in the photos included.

Could anyone please advise me which ones do not come with the set and what are the ones missing from the set.

I realise from the charts in my booklet I do need extra gears to cut

Diametral Pitches, Module Pitches and BA Pitches, which I will acquire as I need them, however I would like to make my box set complete as sold new.

40T, 45T, 55T

50T, 50T, 35T

60T 60T.

60T 65T

45T 28T

Quadrant 30T

Thank you for looking.

Any curve can be cut with this method.

With a fusee this is my first try, and I know the radius is only an average of the correct curve.

With this method, the true curve of the fusee (Or any other curve) can be calculated.

The pattern can then can be reproduced with the aid of a CNC machine, put on to a lathe (Myford)

and cut exactly the way the calculations show.

Cheers

Noel

Hi Sam,

I just had a look at your Clock, very nice.

Thank you for the posting, I thing it will be my next clock.

I will check to see if the book is still available.

Thank you

Noel

Overhead view of turning process

Photo from above, now right side up....

Having never turned a Fusee for a clock previously, I wanted to look into it before I made any attempts.

I noted the two methods used by John wilding, and did not like them as I wanted to use a chain for drive not a twine etc. Therefore I needed a precise method of cutting the groove for the chain, maintaining constant depth.

I decided to adapt my taper turning attachment, replacing the sliding guide block with a fixed but adjustable radius cutting guide.

I was very happy with the result, here are some photos to show what I did.

1 Showing popular clock designed by John wilding

2 The dimensions of the fusee from the book by John wilding.

3 Cutting the dovetail to mount the block onto the taper turning attachment.

4 Cutting the radius for the roller guide.

5 Setting the attachment with the dial indicator.

6 Showing the first few cuts of the fusee

7 A overhead look of the cutting process.

I have not cut the thread as yet because I have a fusee chain of 54” long, but I do not think it is long enough, I still have to find out the actual length, so if you have made one I would like to know please.

Anyone care to comment on the quality of these please, particularly this one from Chronos?

The above is from the first post...

I would not recommend Chronos as I purchased three quick change tool post holders for my Super 7.

They are not ground correctly and I do not use them.

The locating angles on the blocks are too thick and do not clamp correctly, also the vertical adjustment screws

are not long enough.

Very disappointed with Chronos selling something which doesn't fit/work correctly.

I am waiting until I get my Tool and cutter grinder so I can rework them so I can use them.

I now only go Genuine MYFORD

Continued from above....

I wanted to drill and tap to be able to fastern the two pieces together, so in situe I cleaned both faces with acetone and bonded them together with “Weicon VM 120 Professional Grade Super Glue” for metal, this enabled me to remove the assembly, mount it in the mill and drill and tap without it moving from its desired position.

It is now ready for a trial run, I insetred and tightened the socket head cap screw to clamp the shaft into the spindle, I slid the brass clamping block into place now holding the aluminium plate to mount VDH onto.

Slid the VDH into position and fasterned the four bolts, adjusted the angle of the faceplate for ease of use,then proceded to index my headstock.

It worked very well, I was very happy and now have no need to make the Headstock Dividing Attachment which uses the bull gear of the lathe.

Headstock Indexing

VDH to Myford Super 7

Some years ago as a novice to clockmaking I decided to make the Geo H Thomas, Versatile Dividing Head. In many clockmaking books I saw the VDH used in many applications, however

I needed to index my lathe chuck and have a cutter mounted on the vertical slide.

I was thinking of starting to make the Bull Wheel indexing system when I thought, why dont I just mount my VDH direct to the spindle of the Myford, so I went out to the workshop and devised a way of mounting the VDH to the spindle.

Here is what I did.

The first thing was to make an adaptor from the ¾ ” spindle in the VDH to the lathe bore spindle 5/8”. It is a simple taper locking mechasism shown in fig 1,

I made shaft first, turning the OD and the female taper, also turned a smaller diameter in the center to enable expansion from the taper. I then turned the male taper on the same same cross slide setting to ensure a perfect fit. I slit the shaft with a 1/16” slitting saw to allow a taper pin to fit between the slots to stop the taper nut from turning, I have left it as driven home for clarity.

I then mounted the VDH to the exposed ¾ spindle to work out mounting points, once fitted ran under 0.001” true which I was very happy about.

I decided to mount a plate to the under side of the VDH to extend the mounting down to the fine feed/screw cutting, gear wheel, as my Myford has the gear box attached.

If your lathe is not equipped with a gear box, You will have to remove the stud carring the idler gear and the drive pin from the catch plate substituted. The brass block can be mounted on this, the quadrant will need to be loosened and dropped down slightly so the tumbler gears are dissengaged.

I mounted the aluminium plate to the under side of the VDH and observed the fitment would be straight forward.

I measured the space between the underside of the aluminium plate and fine feed/screw cutting shaft and obtained a measurment for the mounting block.

I assembled all the pieces with the VDH to determine the point of the two main parts came together. (See photo).

Its only a matter of rotating the brass clamp until the face is flush and sitting nicely against the underside of the aluminium plate, this will be 90 deg.

I wanted to drill and tap to be able to fastern the two pieces together, so in situe I cleaned both faces with acetone and bonded them together with “Weicon VM 120 Professional Grade Super Glue” for metal, this enabled me to remove the assembly, mount it in the mill and drill and tap without it moving from its desired position.

Thank you Gentlemen,

My first and previous lathe was a Super 7 with an oiler, I loved it because I could set the pin point screw to allow a drip of oil, the best thing was I could see it working.

I would hate to run the bearing dry and most likely used more oil then necessary.

The new oil system, I cant see if the oil is getting freely to the bearing, I did not know about the air hole mentioned above.Taking the spindle out to see if it is working is a serious business.

I didnt know the spindle had to come out to see if it was wicking correctly.

My lathe is only a recent up grade made in 1986, my previous was made in 1952 and still a beautiful machine.

I have a super 7 with the wick system.

I have been thinking about removing it to look at its condition, as I saw Myford advertising new springs for the system,

I have asked them twice if I can replace the spring and felt piece with the gearbox attached and the lathe set up in the stand.

So far no reply.

There is NO mention in the book which came with the lathe about any of this either.

Can anyone help me with this.

Cheers

Hello Les,

Thank you for that information.

It would be great if you could do that for me, I am thinking the Ward indexer is the way to go.

Cheers

Noel

Thank you John and Graeme.

Very interesting.

John, I am very interested in your suggestion.

Cheers and thanks for your help