Member postings for Stirring Moose

Hopper, that's an interesting plan. Think the thread in question would be a 1/4BSP which, if memory serves, requires an 11.8mm tapping hole. Will have to double check exact measurements but that could all work out. Thanks for that.

S.M.

Many thanks for the heads up Pete but on that score at least I am up to speed. Have encountered post-weld thread tightness issues on the tanks I make with welded in necks for screw in filler caps. Caught me out royally the first time I met it - got a cap well and truly stuck and for one brief moment of panic thought I'd wrecked a brand new tank! Calmed down, started thinking and solved the issue but it imprinted the phenomenon fairly firmly on my brain...

S.M.

Edited By Stirring Moose on 10/12/2018 23:23:16

Thanks for the prompt responses guys. One less thing to fret about!

S.M.

OK, not looking for the answer to a problem this time so much as canvassing opinion on whether I might have a problem or not?

Am currently part way through the build of a fuel tank for a Moto Guzzi motorcycle and am pondering the attachment of the fuel taps. On a 'Guzzi the taps screw onto fittings in the tank which have an M16 x 1.0 male thread. An original 'Guzzi tank is steel and thus so are the fittings. My tank, however, is aluminium so it would be useful to make the fittings in aluminium (probably 6082) to allow them to be simply welded in. My concern is that M16 x 1.0 is a very fine thread and might strip rather too readily in aluminium. Am I right to be worried or am I just getting in a tiz over nothing?

S.M.

Thanks for the comments. As indicated, authenticity is always factor with this kind of work so limited choice on materials - the old rivets were copper, so must the new ones be etc. I've had a nose around the old panels that were used as patterns for the job and actually there's relatively little sign of corrosion. Plenty of wear and tear, plus a few slightly unlovely mods from years past, but the basic metal is remarkably sound. How long this bonnet will last remains to be seen. If the old ones were indeed 1924 originals they did 94 years, so that takes us up to the year 2112. That'll probably do ...

S.M.

Apologies for not finishing this tale before now. Below are some pictures of the completed bonnet, complete with copper rivets. Thanks to all those on here who chipped in with bits of info

For those of an automotive bent, the vehicle for which the bonnet is ultimately destined is a 1924/28 3/4.5 litre Bentley.

S.M.

Lots of interesting info coming up here - thanks everyone. Interesting that the bimetallic corrosion issue keeps popping up. I've long been aware the problem between aluminium and steel but can't say I've come across it so much between aluminium and copper. Certainly no sign of problems when I removed the old copper rivets from the original aluminium panels to release the hinges and other fittings for re-use. Another interesting point is that a friend of mine who used to tend historic racing Aston Martins told me it was common practice to use copper grease to stop, or at least reduce, the corrosion where the aluminium body met the steel chassis/floor pan - a known rot spot on old Astons. Admittedly his is the only reference I have heard to the practice; anyone else encountered it?

S.M.

Aluminium panels, brass fittings, copper rivets. That appears to be how they did it "back in the day" and we're trying to stay as faithful to the original as possible.

S.M.

Have already been nosing about on here as part of my own research. Some interesting bits and bobs but a lot of it a bit too "job specific". I'm really starting from scratch with the basics I'm afraid.

S.M.

Brian,

Many thanks for the quick response. To deal with the questions in order:

Some of the rivets are domed and I think that would have been the original spec. Hopefully having a chat with the client sometime this week to see which way we're going on that one.

At least two different sizes in use. Again, will be getting into details this week.

Am based in Crediton, near Exeter in Devon.

Number of rivets? Again that's TBC but wouldn't be surprised if we're knocking on the door of a hundred once done.

S.M.

Not a specific question this time, more an appeal for any info anyone deems relevant and is willing to share. I am in the process of making up a new bonnet for a vintage car. The panels are aluminium, most of the fittings (hinges, handles etc.) are brass. On the original item which I have been asked to copy, all the bits are held together using copper solid rivets. I have done plenty of pop riveting in my time but this is a new departure for me, thus I am on the hunt for all the info I can grab.

The vastness of the internet will of course be trawled directly, but in the mean time any hints on suppliers (of both rivets and tooling), useful instructional links, copper specs to look out for, machining up my own rivets if it comes to it and generally how to not make a t*t of oneself when riveting would be most gratefully received.

Many thanks,

S.M.

Edited By Stirring Moose on 29/07/2018 15:17:00

Nothing against keyless chucks in the right application - my cordless drill has one and a very useful bit of kit it is too. When it comes to the lathe, however, I must admit to coming over a bit old fashioned. Think I'd prefer to stick with keyed chucks for now.

S.M.

A valid point Bob. Actually already have a second chuck in the form of a 0-6mm that came with the lathe. The addition of the 1/2" Jacobs should make a handy set.

S.M.

Many thanks for all your help everyone. The deed is done; I won the auction so now we await the arrival of the postman to see what I've got my little graspers on...

S.M.

Not had chance to do much machining of late but I'm back now, and thus have another probably daft question for you all!

I currently have a pretty bog standard keyed chuck in the tailstock of my ML7 and it does a fair amount of what I need it to do. Only slight problem is that it tops out at 10mm diameter. Could really do with one that would go to 13mm (or 1/2" ). I've recently found for sale on the 'Bay a Jacob 1/2" chuck with a 2MT taper, which I believe is the correct taper for a Myford. Does anyone know if this would fit an ML7? I'm sure with a bit of investigation I could answer this question for myself, but the sale ends fairly soon so any means of short cutting the learning process would certainly help!

Thanks,

S.M.

Edited By Stirring Moose on 27/02/2018 19:30:21

Morning all. While I'll certainly be looking into filters at some point, think I'll leave it for now as, being practical about it, without oil flow I have nothing to filter and at the moment the oiler still refuses to flow. I've tried washing it out, soaking it and blowing it through with compressed air, all to no avail. Think my next port of call will be to carefully disassemble my working oiler and compare its insides with my troublesome one. The reason I've come to this is that I've noticed that the one obvious difference between the oilers (aside from the fact one works and one doesn't) is the "feel" of the regulator valve. When I adjust the valve on the good oiler there is actually a feeling of something happening inside, while the one on the failed oiler feels for all the world as if it is "freewheeling" i.e. not actually moving the business end of the valve. Quite what might causing this, or indeed whether it is just my imagination grasping at straws, remains to be seen.

S.M.

Interesting. No sign of filters anywhere. Presumably these sit between the base of the oiler and the bearing?

S.M.

Thanks Hoppper. Have already got the oiler out and inspected the hole - all seems clear there. Nice to hear on the right track re: the oiler itself though. Will do as you suggest and give it a flush through. Think I have some carburettor cleaner somewhere which might do the job quite well.

S.M.

A kind of sequel to my recent thread enquiring about getting oil into a Myford ML7, now I'm on the hunt for info about getting oil out of a Myford ML7!

Have been able to spend a bit more time on my new-to-me-but-actually-quite-old Myford recently and have turned my attention to the headstock bearing drip oilers. One of them is now working nicely after some initial problems with regulating the flow lead to a bit of a mess. Unfortunately, its little friend at the other end of the headstock seems to be partially blocked. It will occasionally allow a bit of oil out but it's pretty hit and miss. As best as I can tell the control valve seems to be in order mechanically so I'm thinking perhaps it's some congealed old oil causing the blockage. If this is the case then my next logical step would be to flush it through with something. Does anyone have any thoughts on how to tackle this one?

S.M.