Member postings for ron vale 1

The preamble

I know NOTHING about elecrics..Sad i know but some people grasp it, other dont, i am one of them, so anything that tells me that this winding is secondary and voltd,amps watts go right over my head pleae do not get techbical it will not help Sorry to be blunt but that is the way my brain is. It jsut cannot get anything electrical in it... even computers i have trouble with, ( but onlt the theory side, using them is ok ,but if it doesn;t work, the i get someone in)

Thats it

Now a few weeks ago my Crompton motor has been making 'noises'

disconnected the wires from the motor from the Dewhurst rotary switch and noted what went where so far so good this, i can deal with

Took it to the local motor repair shop.. new bearings reqd Fixed and brought home yesterday And this is where the problems start. The gremlins that live in the shed have taken the diagram of what went where!!

Not to worry there is a diagram on P19 Fig 25 of the set up to contact it all back. AAARGH the colours are all wrong

jumping forward a bit the terminals on the dewhurst are ion the LH side T1-4 and on the right T5-8 there is an earth connector above T5

Still with me?

The powerto the switch uses T1 Brown and T3 Blue which corresponds to the Fig 25 diagram

Now this is where my brain goes into neutral

Fig 25 shows that connections of the motor , wire colour and termination on the switch as,

A1 black T5

A2 black T7

Z1 red T2

Z2 red T6

However my motor set up has the following

Terminal A brown

A2 brown

T blue

Z blue

Which knackers me what colour is now what?

To make it really confusing is when i did a continuity test i gor the following results ( i call the blue ones B1 and 2 and the Brown as B1 and 2

Thr battery used showed 1.4v ( see i do know a bit!!)

B1 to Z 1.67??????

B1 to T 1.4

B2 to Z 1.4

B2 to T 1.4

Br1 to A 1.4

Br1 to A2 1.4

Br2 to A 1.4

Br2 to A2 1.4

I was hoping to get a 0 on a couple of these readings!!

Now any ideas on what wire i put on what terminal

IIRC the browns went T2 and 6. which equates to the red in fig 25

Blues must go on T5 and 7

If i just connect them up what could go wrong and if the motor runs backwards in the forward position. wI suppose i would have to reverse 2 wires but what ones

In times like this i am glad i turned down that job in Bomb disposal!!!

Any thoughts and explained so a three year old can understand?

Sorry for the length of this Hopefully all the info you need is there

Andrew

Yep. you have it in one and i have a DRO on both axis!!

The length i need is only 1.9inches!!

Tghe cutter was a four flute end mill brand new from Tracy Tools, and i have been using them for years

The two DTI will be used to square up the vice in future, i did have a system where you place a length of steel in the channel of the bed, turn the vice upside down and tighten it to the bar. then mill out a channel in the base of the vice corresponding to the width of the bed slot Put the bar in that, and by turning the vice over and placing the bar in the slot the vice should always be square. It was a bit off but nothing to worry about but as i will be milling out a radius rod from solid i need everything sdopt on. Hence the DTI

Have a problem when milling

Stock i5/8 x 3/4 is in the vice overhanging by 3in

The vice is as near square ( 2xDTI ordered to get it 100£ in future) as makes no difference with what i need to do

First take a cut on thr top side ( the 3/4)

Then i want to get the 5/8 sides down to 0.531.

I mill the back part by taking about 20thous off

Then get the cutter to the front one to get it to width, and here is where the problem sides

Checking that the front is still 'parallel' to the rear i fine that over a cut of 2 inches it tapers .007 over the length from left to right

I am not taking massive cuts 10 thous max going do as i near reqd width

I would have thought the irrrsipective of the angle of the vice jaws the cuts should be parallel. There is no play in either the bed or the quill or the vice bolt

Amy ideas as to why it is doing it? perhaps smaller cuts?

Having recovered from the price.

i am sure that some enterprising WM16 bod will come up with something

Martin and David. It looks like your eamils and my last visit to the workshop, ;crossed in the post'

In a nut shell, i managed to get the end plate off and by doing so removed the leadscrew. As you surmised the block had shifted and i was rather intrigued that there was not a positive fixing for it ,rather the reliance of two bolts pressing on it.I might add that up to today i have never noticed those bolts so 'tinkering' was not afactor.Perhaps i might sit down later and work out a more positive attachment. drilling the nut and tapping the holes,?

cleaned leadscrew and nut, and replaced it making sure the nut was more horizontal and tightened the bolts up

all nice and smooth, there is a slight movement of the main table but screwing up the adjuster have removed 99.9% of it.

The thing now is to see if the 'taper turning' effect is still there the next time i square up the front and rear favces of the bar

Thanks for all your help. I would have supported the table if i had seen Davids post!

Apologies for the pictures being at 90 degrees, i8 year old lathe and has had less than normal use. when used i dont abuseit with heavy cuts etc ( having seen the tales of stripped gears) so i take little nibbles and slow feeds

The cross feed action is still ok nice and smooth actionn, but the longitudunal feed has over the last few weeks has developed what is best described as a threepenny bit action, tightness and treeing several times on one turn of the handwheel. This is throughout the bed travel and is getting a bit annoying. There is however no play or rock and even releasing the adjustment makes no difference.

When i had my old mill/drill i had a similar problem with the nut becoming loose but this does not appear to be the problem as there is no discernable play when the screw is turned. I looked underneath and i feel that the nut is at a rather jaunty angle Now should it be like that

The other thing that puzzles me is when i was side milling two sides of a bar to bring it to a certain width i found that there was a slight taper . I put this down to the vice being a smidgern off, so i did the next cut without taking the bar out and turning over, on the basis that the width will be the same, although the bar is now slightly in a parallelogram shape ( hope that makes sense) Onlt the same problem was there, only three thous but it is doing my head in!!

Back to the original problem

Has anyone got to the screw and thread and what is the best wasy of doing it?

My first problem id getting the end plates off or can i remove the screw with them still in situ. Once the screw is release from the nut i figure that the bed can be slid to expose the nut.

So over to the list for suggestions ..

Thanks

Edited By JasonB on 01/06/2020 18:17:33

Has anyone managed to remove an unbroken glass panel on these?

If so how?

I want to swap a new one over to my broken one, the broken one was easy to remove, The new one not so!!

Daft Question

, what does he do with the previous one?

If he only wants it once every year what does he do to total it every year

My club is thinking about setting up a website. I have been tasked of scanning all the old club newsletters/mags so members can have a 'nostalgia browse'

Now whilst the scanning is no problem. IIs there a program, preferablly a che on-off or free that will allow the reader to do something simliar like this

**LINK**

ant thoughts ,suggestions appreciated

Thanks

The identity of this car has most, if not all, of the ca r entusiasts stumped

Photograhed in the early 60's in Oxford St

It has Gull wing doors ,front hinge body, and is 99% a commercial kit car ( too good for the average home build back then)

However the genera concenscus is it ISNT a sunbeam harrington derivitve

So any old uns's out there have a clue

the thread, if you fancy a long read is

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=1555306

I did put this up a few weeks ago but cannot find it now.

So to recap

My WM16 has simple DRO fitted. Thanks to the good lady, i have upgraded to a M-DRO Easson kit, and now these are 'surplus to requirements'

George ( sorry mate but see above for non contact) requested a pic. This i now have! hence the repost so if you are still interested your are No 1 in queue

Haven't a clue on postage cost. and not looking a kings ransom for them . Just enough for me and her to get to the pub to buy her a thankyou drink

So form an orderly queue and no pushing!!

Edited By JasonB on 26/07/2019 15:11:49

Just upgraded my 'starter' DRO to a M-DRO system

Dont want to chuck them in the skip so if anyone would like to offer some beer money then they are yours!

They would also fit a WM14 or any miller with a smaller base than a WM16

The ONLY drawback is they they switch off after a while so you have to check nothing has changed on switching on

Otherwise it is just drilling a few holes and off you go

Edited By ron vale 1 on 16/06/2019 11:37:43

The pinstripes on Rolls Royce cars were all hand done. and thet are 17ft long!!

Doh.. Fairy Liquid bottle. How do the simple things slip through the mind

Thanks to all

now to get the good lady to change her washing up liquid ( only joking)

Thanks for all the replies

I think the all the answers are to hand

Ron

This will like describing a piece of string,but where could i buy the following

Pliable plastic bottle with a small diameter tube that will place oil ( esp in Myford S7 oil cups) where i want it

Also to squirt cutting oil onto work i lathe or mill

In effect when you give it a squeeze, oil will be displaced up the tube, which extends about 6-8 inches out of the cap

Hopefully someone will recognise what i am looking for!

Thanks

Ron

I found this method some time ago and now have saved Hours in setting up

1) get a piece of bar that fits VERY snugly into the T slot

2) get a slot drill the same size as the bar in T slot

3) turn vice upside down and grip the piece of metal in the t slot

4) Do a slot in the base of the vice slightly deeper as the bit sticking out of the T slot ( hope this makes sense)

50 Remove vice, remove bar and place in base of the vice

6) next time you want to use the vice, just place it in the slot and it is set up

7) Job jobbed

Well Darren and Peter visited and spent 5hrs looking over the S7. Was very honest about it, esp the slightly bent toolpost slide thread screw, that wasnt worth spending money on to replace as the 'tightness' was at the far end of the travel.

all the inbuilt 'wear' of which there wasnt much wa eliminated nas it is a joy to use again

And worth every penny, considering their day must have been about 111-12hrs including travel.

Well and worthily recommended

Have a look at Greenwood tools

If anyone has the ME vol 142 covering his build of Super Claud and/or Vol 174-6 covering the build of Eastern Belle, is there any chance of having sight of the tender springing detail please?

It is the whole shebang axleboxes, buckles,springs,hangers etc

Thanks

Ron

Edited By ron vale 1 on 20/06/2018 17:12:40

Just a heads up Had a reply from Darren £300 plus fuel (and parts if needed ) i added the last bit

Got the OK to go ahead. AND it isnt my birthday