Member postings for Fergus Davidson

Will do. Thanks again one and all! I'm not going to miss anything any more if I can help it.

Finally everything arrived after the 3rd attempt at ordering a sealed bearing and getting an unsealed one through the post.

The inverter has taken the lathe into another realm. Quiet and hopefully more efficient. It's at the very least good to know everything is clean and functional.

Thanks for all the suggestions. Here are three photos .

Thanks, believe it or not I've got a Jaguar CUB inverter on order from Pete Moss at Transwave. I just need more control. I really need the best I can get but also have to keep my head during this lock down. Crazy timing I guess, not just for me.

Regarding the bearings, I've been looking at SKF at Simply Bearings. Quite a price range. I could pay £90 for one but I think that's out of my league and perhaps overkill. Maybe they're for marine use or the auto industry? Anyway I have to get 6 in 3 sizes so I'll try and get the best I can for around £30 a pop. They'll probably last as long as I use the lathe and maybe I'll be in a better place to buy higher end once they wear.

I'll update once everything arrives and I reassemble the lathe. It's at least comforting to know it's spotless inside now... for a while anyway.

Another question. I'm going to order bearings for all spindles including the motor. How much should I be spending with their prices ranging from £3 to £80.

Should I be mindful of the rpm and sealed units? The current ones on the motor spindle are deep groove and unsealed.

I've cleaned everything up and have the new v belts, so just the bearings to go.

I drilled a hole for a 5mm grub screw to hold the key in position so even with the new bearings and also lining the pulley up exactly with the one above, there is no chance of the key slipping again. The pulley grub screw is the only one and at 90° round from the keyslot but the flat it should locate onto was about 97° from the keyslot so that's one reason the pulley was slipping. I ground a small concave round into the spindle for the pulley grub screw to settle in so that also will now not move.

Photos to follow

Yes I agree now I think about it more. Today is going to be a messy day. Thanks for the good luck!

I'll post back later when I investigate more.

Fergus

Will do Martin but I'm sure there's just the one. I've photographed it from a few angles now and don't remember spotting any.

Bob, that's really great thanks. I'll definitely do this now I've seen the process. I like the idea of a strip down and refurb of the bearings and belts. I wish I could be certain of the bearing sizes so I could order them and do it all in a day without waiting for deliveries, especially at the present moment. I might just remove it and do a quick check of the sizes and put it back until the parts arrive.

Cheers everyone.

Hi

John, that's interesting I'll check it out tomorrow.

Larry, I've no idea. I find it a trial sometimes getting a gear back of I'm changing gears, with the key being a very tight fit. How this one is slipping is a curiosity! There's a possibility this motor has never been removed so I imagine the key is original and I can't see why it would be the wrong size. The grub screw is about 20° anticlockwise from the key so it only there to secure the wheel. I just can't figure out then why the key is moving. Clearly through vibration but normally the are such a bugger to get in I'm surprised it's moving.

The picture posted at 20:14:05 shows the drive belt . It seems in good condition although the outside looks very rough.

The control wiring picture shows the button I press that allows the reverse to engage. I just did this to show the reverse actually works but not by the normal method of pressing the green start button on the front panel. This is entirely for demonstration as it's totally impractical to open the panel every time I need to engage reverse. I took a video but I don't think I can pay this here .