Member postings for Rob Murgatroyd 1

I don't know what reputation this chap enjoys among members of this forum, but I found this YouTube video about tramming a column-type mill very illuminating and it offers perspective of what we might expect from our affordable equipment. Stephan Gotteswinter

Tubal Cain published an excellent series of articles in ME about building a Stuart S50 starting in August 1992 under the title 'Sally'. One of his notes is that the original S50 was only available pre-built from Stuart and introduced as castings later. He writes that factory equipment allowed the crank to be fixed to the disc with a left-hand thread (so it would not unfasten during running), the plans for the build specified a right-hand thread and peening for practical reasons, but necessitated a sawn disc to allow assembly.

I've found Stuart list drawings under 'spare parts' for many of their models so you should be fine. **LINK** (scroll to the bottom of the list). ME is running a series on building the hammer at the moment although I've only seen part 1 so far. I like the idea of building one myself one day.

Edited By Rob Murgatroyd 1 on 28/12/2017 22:47:48

That's a shame. Other magazines I subscribe to don't seem to have the same problem, must be less desirable! Perhaps a digital subscription will be the way to go.

Oh dear. I'm afraid I gave up my previous subscription due to the suspicious looks my post-lady was giving me when delivering them, and at least one copy arrived torn open by some postal worker probably hoping for something shameful inside. Any hope they might change to transparent or be prominently labelled at some point?

Could someone tell me how the magazine is wrapped for delivery to subscribers these days please?

Stuart Models give some power outputs for many of their models. E.G. the 5A a claimed 1.5HP with a 2.25" bore and 2" stroke - considerably more power than my little Myford's electric motor. Go for it!

Actually, look into it in a lot more detail first, no doubt it's more complex than that.

I think it's down to this: propane in a cylinder is in liquid form due to the pressure. As you use propane the liquid evaporates to yield the gas. The evaporation absorbs heat and lowers the temperature. At lower temperatures the liquid evaporates more slowly.

When the cylinder is full there is a lot of liquid and the temperature drop is small. When nearly empty the small amount of liquid remaining is chilled to a much lower temperature and can't evaporate fast enough to supply full pressure.

I think you will be able to feel the bottom of the cylinder getting cold when using it near empty. You could probably return to normal operation by warming it gently, a bowl of luke-warm water for example, but you do so at your own risk, obviously.