Member postings for Werner Schleidt

Hello all ,

here is an update of our activities at our club parking lot. The audience was so kind to park a few steps away to hold free the parking lot.

The Sentinel Elephant was in better condition ,but it want not to burn anthrazit coal ,but a mix with smoky coal it burns much better.

I had problems with my oil pump again. That is at the moment the only thing to improve.

For the automatic blower valve I made a stainless steel spring .It was wounded in my lathe and the material was adapted from a broken spoke of a bicycle wheel. Never throw away something useful!

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 29/05/2018 19:41:24

Hallo vintageengineer,

the conclusion what Dave and I said is ,when you have nothing to measure you have to tried it.

Whit the lamp method you can not do so much wrong. Try at first from a car spare box of lamps with 12 volt

1. a 5 W Lamp ,if it burns bright the trembler does not work

2. a 10W lamp , this give you aprox 1 Amp the trembler could be work after a short time the lamp should getting darker and the trembler should work. If not you have to use step 3

3. a 20 W lamp, the trembler runs at the beginning with more Volts and high frequency if the lamp getting more temperatur it getting darker.

With this method for examble you can not normaly damage the trembler.

Werner

Hallo vintageengineer,

the best way is to measure the current by aplying a 6 V Battery. Is the current about 2 Amps than use a simple bulb lamp with 6V 10 to 20 Watt und connect befor the trembler . The current flew then from the 12 V battery to the lamp and then to the trempler. Light bulb show you the curent flow. In this example you can use a 12 V 20 W lamp too.

You can measure the voltage drop on the lamp and at the trempler. No electronic no battery a very cheap system.

The only thing you have to do is measure the current of the trembler and choose a lamp.

Technical the lamp is a PTC resistor and have the possibility for some current regulation. And the lamp show you your systen is working.

Werner

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 27/05/2018 19:19:02

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 27/05/2018 19:22:28

Hello all,

here is an update of my activities. We had our steam up at my local club the DBC Rhein-Main. The street steamer had now a new colleage with a traction engine. And a new setinel " elphant " made it first rounds in the public and I had my partly improved Fire King with new donkey pump and automatic blower valve and I added a small car for children to sit on. There were a lot of steam and electric locos on our club track.

In between with lot of improvisation I made my first real test with my measurement unit with the dyno and the pulse wheel and so on. There is a picture of the raw data on the quick look display on the phone.

The green line is speed and the white line is the dyno force. As I know now there is small lash in the coupling bolt and the road surface looked smooth ,but because of pavement it is rough with some noise in the dyno .

This chart is the averaged raw data of the dyno and the speed which is calculated from km/h to m/s to calculate the power in Watt. See next chart.

By the first shot I think it is not bad ,but I have some idea for refinements.

There is a video of the steam up at out club area.

I hope you can enjoy the video.

best regards

Werner

Hello all ,

I want to update my work with a test ride under steam pressure.

First test ride after some improvements over the winter .The new donkey pump learned under steam what to do. With temperature the flying piston was very often sticky at the beginning. After some run in it worked fine. The automatic blower valve worked good ,but the spring need a replacement in a stronger one. By chance I noticed that my air pressure test gauge count the wrong value to less. And tightening means that the coil is nearly blocked.

At the end of the day came the "lovely" clean up work .

Here is a video of the ride.

Hallo Pete,

look very nice what you have made.

I answer your PM

Werner

Hallo Pete,

it is nice to see that I am not alone with my thoughts.

Here are a few descriptions of my devices .

The data collection is based on a PIC 16F684 processor with 10 bit resolution. I have 7 analog channels and two digitals. 2 Channels are dedicated to Volt and Ampere the others are with flexibel input that mean 0 to 5 V input.With jumpers the Ampere channel could be equiped with a pre amplifier for a current clamp.

I want to have all modular ,because I want to build a test bench for my model aeroplane props and motors with the same unit. Temperature I can measure with a simple NTC resistor and with thermocouple amplifier type K.

The force measurement is based on a chinese luggage gauge. It spends the strain gage element. An instrumentation amplifier with faktor around 1000 amplifies it to the real calibration.

The pulse wheel is made with 12 magnets these give 6 Pulses at the hall sensor.

All is build on prototype boards and a 9 V accu can power it all for 1 hour as long as my android phone run in full power mode.

All is testet ,but I am waiting to make real measurement with better wheather conditions.

The pressure sensor is a cheap chinese sensor with 12 bar scale and integrated electronic. I will see how good a 10 € sensor could be when I have it.

At the moment the system can send 5 to 6 full data frames per second. For more static measurement it is good enough. And all is running on 9600 baud.

For an indicator I think the rate have to be increased. And a good contactles displacement sensor have to be used.

Here are some pictures for better understanding.

Data acquisition send via blue tooth to the android phone software

This is a graphic example

The force transducer

On the left side is the fixture to the waggon ,in the middle the luggage gauge and on the right side there is a mechanical guide to eliminate side forces. On top the amplifier.

By chance i killed one element .One wire in the middle was detached. So I was forced to order a new one

for 5 €.

The pulse wheel

The thermocouple amplifier with a cheap chinese element

I think it is a kind of overkill , but I hope I can find some room for further optimization.

with friendly regards

Werner

Hello all,

I want to show some progress of my project.

At first thanks to all who view my fire king.

I attached my steam pump at the frame as replacement for the smaller pump. I hope that my calculation of the pumped water is now OK . I think there are some drawbacks by running in ,but that is normal.

I had some good progress by installing the pump, only one small change at the the pipework have to be done.

And here is a close up.

In the time between building I started an additional project ,because I want to know the power output of my models. It is a device which enables me to collect data for my private imlec competition. I hope that i can find something to improve the efficency of my models.

With this device I can measure force ,speed ,pressure,rotational speed, temperature with thermocouples and voltage and current for electric models.

All measurement data have been collected by a small computer and is send via blue tooth to an android phone. At the phone I wrote the the data accquisition software in basic. All sensors and amplifiers are constructed at a low cost, but as accurate as possible. The force sensor is made with a strain gage force sensor from a cheap chinese luggage gauge. The measurement range is up to 400 N .The accuracy by my calibration is around 2 to 4 N . The speed sensor is made from a model aeroplane wheel attached with a magnetic wheel and a hall sensor. Precalibration is made but not a test in reallity.

I will update this next with pictures.

best regards

Werner

Hello all,

I want to update my work.

At first many thanks for the nice replies and I wish a good steaming in 2018.

I made some progress in planning and puting things together.

For easier use of my fireking I constructed and made an automatic blower valve. This blower valve opens and close automaticly the steam blowing into the chimney. The basic parts are the housing which is splitted in to funktions at first a steam valve and a diaphragm. The diaphragm is realised with an o ring and closing part pre tensioned by an adjuster nut and a spring.

The valve is connected by a bar with the diaphragm. If the pressure is low the spring give tension to the o ring and the valve is open. If the pressure is rising to a certain point ,70 to 100 psi depends on adjustment , the steam pressure is higher than the spring tension and the valve was closed. In a good setup the hysteresis is about 3 to 4 psi. The anthracid coal is much better to control ,because if you add water or the pressure drops the blower valve react immidiatly. The cut off should be 3 to 4 psi under safety valve pressure. With this valve you have less cinder and a better fire. The behaviour is in easy words like you have a much bigger boiler.

Secondly I realised that my, very fine made, donkey pump is to small for holding the water level in the boiler.

Last year I decided to use only one cylinder in my fire pump setup. The second one came in a box with parts. By chance the idea came up to use it with some small modification to build a more powerful steam donkey pump.

So I made new a smaller water cylinder in relation to the diameter of the steam cylinder . The valve work of the steam engine is a functional copy of the smaller one. Due to the fact that I did not open the smaller one so I had some thinking how I have to made the parts.

I am very satisfied, with no mistake the pump get in function. It is always fascinating at the beginning there is the idea and the material ,then brain work , hand and maschine work and then there is life.

I hope the steam tests are in the same way.

I put together all in a small video I hope you can enjoy it.

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 28/01/2018 16:35:19

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 28/01/2018 16:38:33

Hello all ,

i want to update my work. During driving downhill and under parking conditions I missed a brake system.So I looked in the workshop how I can add it, with not much work and in a way that it looks like it was made from the beginning. It cost me some days to find the best way.

The decision was made to use the housing of the differential gear in combination with the brake shoe.The brake shoe was made by wood with rubber glued on it.

The difficulty was to find a routing for the brake cable. With some thinking and studiying my pictures I found a good way to combine the brake lever with the brake cable. I was able to use an old hole to attache the cable guide.

The brake was used with a spindle system. So it is not too big but powerful enough to pull the cable. To give you an idea please look to the pictures.

The break cable have 10 mm of clearance to the driveshaft.

Break shoe and shaft. To keep the housing from the differential gear more clean, a brass tub was added to collect the oil and water drops of the engine.

To find a place for the brake spindle and the sizing was not easy ,but at the end it looked as it was constructed from the beginning.The lever and spindle is below the steeringwheel on the right side.

And one thing I tried to make, a one hand using and driving possible. The left hand I use typical for the camera.

The next step is to build an automatic pressure dependable blower valve to ease the usage and keep the fire in a better condition. In my driving this year i forgot very often to use the blower valve ,because the driving conditions are very different between full load and no load. The automatic valve keep the pressure around a half bar under the safety valve set point and if the pressure drops a half bar the blower starts automaticly. That gives a very good water usage and a good burning fire.

In my 5 inch gauge small locomotives this was a very big improvement.

best regards

Werner

Hello all ,

after the Mannheim steam event i drove at our club track and there was some knocking noise hearable ,but it was hard to find out on witch part of the steam engine. I recognized that it was good to strip as many as possible from the frame in the garage,because i was not able to bring the machine over the stairs in to the basement. With the front part,the side tanks and the boiler detached, it was easier to investigate the noise.

After stripping off i found that the attachement of the eccentric crank was not solid and there was lash.

I stripped the shaft out of the engine and i added a feather key groove.I made the feather key to a very strong fit.

Now i hope that it will withstand the power of the engine. To get a smoother running of the engine during water pumping with the fire pump ,I decided to add a flywheel. The material I had in stock.

The flywheel under construction

the end machining was made with a small round table on the milling machine.

It was a good exercise to do it ,if it is not heavy enough i made it from brass again.

My rubber tires ,a 65 shore rubber, collects many stone from the road and they looked very bad after 34 Km of running.

So I looked for harder material . The idea came up to calculate how is the force where the wheel is standing at the road. With this calculation i had the idea it is nearly equivillant to a woman s heel. So i looked in google to shoe maker supplies and i found hard rubber in longer stripes. It was in a good price available.

The surface structure is like asphalt.

In between I made the etching plates for the town name. I decide my fireking had the nearest fit to the fireking witch was in service in hungerford as i have an old picture of it.

The large plate i was not able to make in my standard way .I had to do some improvisation. I searched in the house a larger dish. I had no success. As I want to clean my tool box I recognized that is the best way to use the empty box and made it quick and dirty.

It was very at the limit , the result was not 100% perfect but good enough to use it.

I had the problem that the etching was over 1 hour and the photo resist has some weak point on the downside of the letters.

Atached on the doors it looked like the original for me

I hope you can enjoy the discription.

best regards

Werner

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 12/11/2017 15:23:49

Hello all,

the Mannheim steam event is now history and it was very nice in the museum called Technoseum. In the park before the museum there were nice areas to drive with traction engines and with my "fire king".

I made a video of our driving and i hope you can enjoy it. My fire king was in good working order and we had a lot of fun.

Hello all,

thank you all for your nice words.

As i said experience is the only thing that counts, therefore i made protectors for all my watergauges and i think it gives a better look as before.

After the run and cleaning i found that both eccentric cranks of the engine are not proper fitted on the shaft. After some discussion with a friend i decided to add loctite 638 and screw it as before. The cleaning action was a little bit difficult , but it was a straight forward job on one side. On the other side the reaction of the loctite was faster then i can adjust it Ok. The result was the screw has no fit ,because of a very small misalignment. The idea to cut the thread again was a stupid idea the thread drill cracked and was partly in the bore.

I decide then to make the thread new on the opposit side of the shaft. Now i can not mix left with right. Always think positiv.

On our next club open day i drove with the new gear setup to the junction of the river rhine and main again. I had a much better driving performance faster with less coal and water consumption . On the background of the picture there is the city of mainz with the cathedral.

I am now in preparation for the next event in the mannheim technoseum the steam meeting 16 and 17 of september . As you see on the picture the little firefighter is eagerly waiting for the next event and his coworker with the watergun too.

I keep you updated.

Werner

Edited By Werner Schleidt on 06/09/2017 20:24:53

Hello Charles ,

that is easy to explain ,because the front lamps need some energy. This brass cylinder is a fake fire extinguisher and is big enough to hold inside 3 AAA batteries or a Laptop lithium cell. The handle on the top is the on off switch for the lamp. I do not want to bring cables on the backside of the front plate and so the Idea came up to make the fake fire extinguishers. And I tried to make them realistic. In my second video I show how I made the lamps and the batterie holders. The lamps are with led diodes equiped and have an automatic connecting mechanism by mounting.

I hope it explains your question.

Werner

Hello all ,

many thanks for your reply !!!

Hello charadam,

I hope I understand your question correct. The anti clockwise rotating wheels is an optical illusion. The Video is made with 25 pictures per second and it was made with real pictures ,non interlaced. So if the wheel is turning it could be that fractions of the picture s you see give you the illusion that the wheel is standing still while driving or go slower or faster. It is for me easier to explain in german than in english . I hope you can understand it.

The device between the front box and the water tank is a horizontal steam donkey pump. The amount of water is big enough to take a coffee or have break and the water level in the boiler keep stable.

Werner

Hello all,

there is an update of my last activities. Sometimes good luck and bad luck are not far away from each other.

I changed the gear ratio as I described it and the test ride was much better. It was was in the range i hoped and calculated it.

After 500 m of ride with full pressure and speed the water glas gauge cracked and I pulled the grate as fast as I could. What I had made wrong, I added a blow down pipe to the water gauge and with some vibration it helps to crack the glas. My next step was renew the glas and stabilise it with a mounted half pipe in the back of the glas retaining nuts.

Two days later I made a new ride to the water gate of Kostheim. This ride was very sucessful the only problem I have ,if I make Video during driving , I forgot some times the fire and recognize it when the pressure drops.

Driving with steam is always an adventure and there is in every time room for getting some new experience.

Hello,

I reworked my firepump to get more flow.I found out that the pipework and the inner diameters of the water channels are to small. I decided to look what I can do with a moderate rework. I opened the whole as much as possible and built a new valve box. And in addition I added a small wind vessel.

the arrangement looks much better now

We made a new ride and test. The pump is much better now nearly two times the flow as before.

The second gear of the steam engine is to slow, but very powerful. I made a ride to the junction of river rhine and main one way 1.3 km. The average speed was 3 kph and that was to slow so I deside to change the small chain wheel to larger one.

I hope that the ratio change from 8 to 1 to 5 to 1 is from the performance good.

here is the video from the ride before the change.

it will be updated

werner

Hallo Ricky,

if i had this layout you discribed i had the handpump and the crosshead pump on one side with check valves to the

boiler and the same on the other side. Two injectors separated by check valves.

So you have no problem by mechanical feed and even if only one of the two injectors is working you have a functioning loco. And i see no reason why not both injectors can work at the same time by such a layout.

Werner

Hello all,

I take here the chance to share with you some information of the construction and build of a tasmanian K1. My club colleage Jakob Helf build this locomotive to a high standard. The K1 runs in compound action like the orignal. Nearly from all building steps he made pictures and I made a video of all material on from my own material.

I think it is very interesting to see the loco growing in steps. Now it runs very good but in the beginning he had some draw backs. And one thing he had to learn ,If you drive with compound steam you have to be patient ,because the hole procedure to start need some time. At first he open the steam valve to fast and the loco slips on the track. After some run in he learned to give some small amount to start and wait the K1 starts smooth without sleeping.

I hope you can enjoy the video with his work

Hello Ron,

I missed the information that it worked with a borrowed one. As I said after the link there can be other problems.

I looked your video ,but for me is not clear what you do. In second 28 to 32 your injector has small dribbeling and from the sound it worked. The same in second 42 to 43.

As I recognised in my steam loco s, at the beginning I had John Cashmore injectors,they worked very good. I opened the water full openend the steam full and the injector picked up !! And it was possible to pick up if I opened the steam first.

They have only one problem the steam nozzle was very thin and the waterjet destroys the inlet into the combining cone of the steam nozzle.

I tryed to reproduce such a steam nozzle, but I was not able to do so.

In Germany in the steam fair in Sinsheim I bought an unknow make of an UK suplier in a hexagon body. I bought the tap and die too to make my own connectors.

These injectors had an different start procedure. Open the water valve, wait until water came out constant and then open the steam valve full. The injector did not picked up, but water expire at the overflow more rapid. Then I have to reduce the water valve a little and the injector picked up. That is a roundabout way ,but these kind of injectors are not so sensitiv to small amounds of dirt. And these nozzle are much more mechanical stable. I tried to copy the steam nozzle and I get that to function. And one thing is clear the water have to be clean. I have in my water tank a special filter made from a women stocking or panty . It is spread over the inlet in a very loose fit.

So any dirt is in the filter. And you get this material everywhere.

Werner