You can feed the new fusebox from the AUX battery terminal on the VSR. You should fit a fuse rated to protect whatever size of cable you are using to feed the fuse box at the VSR end. Otherwie if the cable chafes it will cause a fire.

Robert G8RPI.

Robert,

Thank you for the reply,

Already installed are midi OTO fuse holders one into the relay and one out of the relay, I just need to replace the fuses. Using the already fitted relay and wiring will save time and money. I will be using only a fan and a light on the circuit and if it takes a little time start up it will not be a problem. I just needed to know that it would work safely.

Regards

CT

Voltage sensitive relay 140A maximum current rating ? Why only using fan or light when engine running ? Do you have other electrical problems ? Why not run fan and light from the ignition switch run position or if you feel the need for a relay wire this through the run position then to a small fuse box. It seems alot of work and technology for no useful gain. Please explain what you need and why ? Noel

Where does the 140 Amps quoted come from? Is it the winch consumption? or is it the fuse box rating? Do you not want the interior light to work when the engine is not running? I can understand the fan not being required when engine 'off' but I would have thought the interior light would ideally be switchable at all times.

I also do not understand exactly what you mean by a voltage sensitive relay! Do you really mean the AWL relay (Alternator Warning Light)? Or do you mean a dual charging relay as used with caravans, which only charges the accessory battery when the main vehicle battery is consuming less than 13.2V?

A brief sketch of the circuits to be employed would be helpful as well.

Martin

Martin

Thank you for the reply.

The 140 amps is the relay it is a voltage sensitive relay and was used to charge the auxiliary battery. I wish to repurpose it to create a circuit with a fuse box not a battery on the one end.

The relay has three connections one to the starter battery one to the auxiliary battery and an earth. My plan was to use the cable which went to the auxiliary battery to feed the new fuse box and not a battery. Thus creating a fuse box live only when alternate is charging.

This method is only because most of the circuit is ready installed, I have removed the battery already. Battery needed replacing but having removed the winch it powered I have no use for it.

Regards

CT

You are overthinking this. If the maximum input voltage is 10V then feed the control wire from a potential divider with a 2.2 K resistor to +12V and 10 K to ground. This will give just under 10V on the control wire. Or use a 10 K potentiometer with one end grounded and the other connected to +12 V through a 2.2 K resistor, the slider on the violet wire for speed control. You won't need things like voltage stabilsers etc.

Hi CT,

Thanks for your reply.

The transistor is good for 0.5 amps, it's only operating the relay coil.

If you have an automotive relay to hand, go for it.

Good luck,

Bear.

Grizzly Bear.

Thank you for taking time out to help.

Sorry for the delay in getting back but cleaning the house plastics (guttering, soffits and the like) interrupted serious work.

Back to business I do have a number of relays I have collected over the years not all new ones but in the collection is a new R20BC- 5 blade 40/30A changeover relay.

Data sheet https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-219-relays-flasher-units/p-644-12-volt-5-blade-relay

I also found something I had forgotten about it was when Maplins were closing down I purchased a number of items I thought may come in useful. In amongst a lucky bag of random things one of which is a timer kit you know the self assemble ones.

Well in the kit is a 5 pin changeover relay HKE HRS4=S=DD12V C

Found the data sheet https://www.manualshelf.com/manual/hke/hrs4h-s-dc12v-c/datasheet-english.html

Is there any mileage in either of the relays?

Regards

CT

Grinding spindle extension is my best guess too, the only thing that makes me curious is how it is meant to accurately locate itself and run run true.

Unlike a lathe chuck there is no register associated with the 5/8" thread, there is only the remains of the 1" diameter face once the spanner flats are taken into account so the slightest burr on the face would throw the far end of the extension quite a long way off. If it is for internal grinding then presumably it would be rotating at high rpm so concentricity and balance are really important.

The extremely fine pitch and the very close fitting thread of the collet nut point to it being a precision made item but its at odds with the mounting thread.

Ian P

Ian,

I should have read your first post fully as you had already dismissed the grinding quill theory sorry,

A three things come to mind firstly do you know where the engraver came from (the company and what they produced) this may give a clue.

Secondly is it an ejector rod? The reason I ask this is because many years ago one of the things we made for the foundry industry were ejector plates and ejectors they were of a similar design to your mystery object. We never made anything as long as your one but that's not to say no one did.

It has all the features securely bolted to a plate, a number can be used of differing lengths, replaceable wear part "the ejector pin" held securely by a collet system and adjustable to ensure accurate contact with the part being ejected.

Third but the collet doesn't fit the criteria is a Core drill spindle--https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Core-Drill-Bit-Adapter-5-8-11-Thread-Male-to-1-2-Shank-Diamond-Power-Drill-/401074587031

Regards

CT

I think this is certainly the right part. It has a matching part number. HR-AMR-Y/012 Z1

HR-AMR-Y means it's an Automotive Relay. Although 'Fitre' made the faulty one there's no reason to replace it with another 'Fitre', any part matching the specification should do.

012 means it has a 12V coil

Z defines the pins, internal switch arrangement, current capacity and the 'must operate' and 'must release' voltages.

1 means the relay is fully sealed rather than being open or having a removable dust-cover.

The codes that matter when ordering an equivalent automotive relay are 012 and Z, and the French site ticks all the boxes.

Decoding part numbers is hit and miss. Many manufacturers use private codes making it difficult to identify entirely bog-standard components. Published identifiers can be hard to track down and it doesn't help the generic identities come in national flavours, usually for historic reasons. But in this case I think it's clear - the French relay is compatible, fingers crossed!

Dave

Dave Thank you,

With the detail you give to the identifiers and that you are absolutely clear in your own mind the French offering is perfectly compatible "not just compatible but exactly the SAME" relay then I think I will take a chance with ordering two from them.

I know I have been guided away from choosing an automotive sized relay and fitting it outside the module but would it have WORKED?

Regards

CT

If RS fails you try Farnell

Morning Dave

I have also looked at Farnell and was unable to find a suitable replacement.

My not finding a suitable replacement is more than likely due to my lack of knowledge than anything else. All I have to go on is the pdf data sheet and me trying to match all the criteria of the original relay, not knowing what is critical and what's not. Perhaps the only feature I can be sure of is that the colour of the case is not critical. After saying that I bet someone will say how the colour is important for heat distribution and can be detrimental to working heat range.

Regards

CT

Occams Razor - the simplest solution is always the best

I would go with direct replacement otherwise I have to ensure the replacement meets or exceeds the original item specification and modify wiring which from experience is time consuming and makes the fix non-standard, in years to come I don't have to remember what I did!

Thank you for that yes I agree simplest is the best.

The pins on the French unit look the same as my one and if made to an ISO or equivalent standard will have the correct spacings so do we (royal we because I don't know) believe they will be a direct replacement?

I have put a photo of the SPAL M5 control unit in my album.

Than you

CT