Member postings for Nige

I have been looking at the SX2.7 mill tonight with the thought "where would the bits for a 3 axis DRO fit". Has anybody done this yet?

There appears to be plenty of space to fit scales and sensors the only scary position being the back of the table where you might want to fit the X axis sensor which would probably entail removing the table hence being scary !

Y axis looks like scale and sensor would fit nicely on the right hand side with scale fixed to base of machine and Z axis on left or right. This is all dependant on scale and sensor sizes of course.

Another question is do we use magnetic or optical scales/sensors ? Got some more investigation to do

The Dial Thread Indicator from a ML7 will fit the ML4

Cracking job DrDave Nice to see a project go reasonably to plan

Nige

How many of us go to the junk box first to find components we need.. Want a two wire connection, Mmmm let me see, what have we here, a bit of chocolate block, Nah not easy to plug/unplug, 5 pin DIN plug, damn, would be ok if I had a socket for it, oh here we go, a 3 pin XLR plug AND a panel mount socket, jobs a good un

I wonder what actual difference use of the 'proper plug' and cable would have made in this project. The device appears to do everything its designer wanted except that the achieved temperatures may or may not be exactly as he thinks he measured, but different by how much and will it make a difference. Could be the guy who built it knew full well that an XLR plug and thin stranded copper wire would work well enough for his application.

pgk: There never was a 'problem'. I was looking for suppliers who offer a variety of sizes and people like Arceurotrade and WARCO only offer wheels as spares for tools they sell, often only in a single size.

As I am trying to design from scratch I was looking for suppliers that offer wheels with a range of dimensions so I had choices at this the design stage. I had missed Cromwell offering because I didn't delve deeply enough into their website but as it turns out they are expensive compared with Chronos who do offer the sort of range I was expecting to see and who I ordered from.

Cutwell have the range but are expensive and there are one or two others who manufacture for industry and appear to have the range but don't advertise their pricing.

For what it is worth this is the reply to my query to the archive about copyright status of the book in question.

Hello,

Thank you for the inquiry. The Internet Archive generally does not advise as to the copyright status of items in the collection at www.archive.org and does not guarantee the accuracy of information posted on items’ details or collection pages, including information regarding copyright or intellectual property rights of any kind. Our terms of use (terms.php >**LINK**) require that users make use of the Internet Archive's Collections at their own risk and ensure that such use is non-infringing and in accordance with all applicable laws.

Please be aware that a great many of the items on archive.org and accompanying information have been posted by account-holders (both private individuals and individuals acting on behalf of public and private institutions) and not by Internet Archive directly. Internet Archive does not review their submissions for accuracy.

You should, of course, feel free to contact any donor institutions, authors, or publishers using information posted on details or collections pages at **LINK** if you seek to obtain more information from them. Should you wish to pose questions to the uploader, it may be worth your while to post a review to the item (our system will attempt to automatically notify a user whenever a review to one of their items has been posted). The Internet Archive cannot provide contact information other than that which is provided on these pages.


The Internet Archive Team

So a typical 'Teflon shoulders' approach from them; everybody else is responsible for checking that

A) they are permitted to upload material OR

B) they are permitted to download any material.

Neil: Thank you, I understand your reference now

Journeyman: Thank you. I had found the Cromwell tools offering but they don't appear to have knurls suitable for diamond patterning and having now found Chronos, thank you, they are quite expensive. Chronos it is

Nige

In trying to find a supplier for knurling wheels it seems that very few people sell any variety except for eBay where you take a big chance on quality particularly with respect to hardness I suspect. It appears to be easier and cheaper to by a ready made knurling tool and remove the knurls than to try and buy knurls alone

Do I go for 10 mm knurls or bigger? Thinking I might want to knurl up to 50 mm diameter stock but then of course I could design it with interchangeable wheels thinking bigger stock bigger wheels, smaller stock, smaller wheels!

Neil: I understand that narrower wheels would need less force but sorry, I'm not understanding the centre of a bar reference

Nige

I have sent an email to [email protected] asking about the copyright status of this and will post any replies here

I have cut the V groove again. I decided the block of mild steel hung out from the arbor more than was necessary and I wasn't too happy with the depth/width of the first V groove I cut. So I took a slice off on the band saw and remounted the block and faced it again this time with an HSS tool with a slight curve to the nose which gave me a much nicer finish.

I have had another look at one of Tubal Cains videos on cutting V grooves where he describes how to calculate the position for the milling cutter from first principles using a bit of trig' and the scales on the X and Z axis. It is a little complicated to start with but transferring the knowledge to actual practice made more sense of the technique. I had a centre line scribed on one face so I had a visual clue as to whether I was getting it right. Doing it this way you have to keep careful track of how many turns of each handle you use as I found out !!

I wanted 10 mm faces on my Vs and having got the cutter centred I decided to take 0.5 mm cuts in the Z & X axis simultaneously with the idea that my V would 'grow' symmetrically from the centre line. Once I had taken a couple of cuts I could see that I was about 1.0 mm 'short on the Z axis cut which I put down to miscounting turns and at one point winding the Z axis the wrong way and having to 'go back'!! Having put that right it was an easy finish with a few more passes of the cutter.

And here it is, though it still till needs the clamping plate and its associated threaded holes making.

So what did I learn:

• That I have to get to know my machine better, which way to turn the Z axis handle will soon become second nature I'm sure.
• Every minute of thought, preparation and checking is worth it.
• I could have taken bigger cuts than the 0.5 mm (20 thou) ones i was taking.
• I can see how damn useful a DRO will be !

I know you say it has to be watertight but could you tap a through hole and then use a small threaded plug sealed from the other side or maybe plug it with an epoxy resin of some sort?

Hi thaiguzzi. I looked at the Hemingway kits. Do they come as a kit of parts that just needs assembling or is there some machining to do as well?

Thank you guys

I would like to design my own knurling tool. It will be a clamp type but thought first decision would have to be 'what size knurling wheels'. Can anybody tell me how best to decide/calculate the wheel size. I envisage wanting to knurl diameters up to 2 inch.

Thanks, Nige

Thank you Clive and Hopper, comprehensive replies that explain it all. I realised that rim, boss and bore needed to be concentric but hadn't quite fathomed how that might be achieved and you guys have given me a couple of new techniques to try and store in memory 😊 though I try and make the titles of my queries useful with words I can search on later 👍 Again, thank you.

Nige

This question prompted by seeing a photo of a cast flywheel that will be machined. I can see that it will need a hole in the boss and the outer rim machining but where do you start, which part do you assume is 'accurate'? Do you hold it by the boss and turn the rim then hold the rim and drill the boss? Which bit do you rely on being 'near enough correct' to use as the starting point?

Thanks, Nige

Good luck Ron😀 You and I are in similar positions being beginners with new lathes and this is a fantastic place to ask for help, some really nice people live here 😊

Nige

Morning Ron

Somebody with more knowledge and experience will be along shortly I'm sure but I have realised that for any 'particular' lube application there will be a 'particular' type or class of oil best suited to it BUT if you haven't got any then 3 in 1 will probably get you through until the box arrives in the post. Had exactly this situation when my new machines arrived recently; cleaned off the preservative and wanted something to oil the surfaces and 3 in 1 was there Took the advice in JasonB' on lube (in the milling for beginners article in the last MEW) and now have a particular lube for a particular use.