Member postings for Brian Rutherford

Took the centre bolt off the cross slide which dropped the nut which allowed me to unwind the cross slide leadscrew and withdraw it. Pretty good bend in it at the start of the thread nearest the front. Will put it in the lathe between centres to see if I can straighten it. Pity I can't use the cross slide to do it

Thanks to all for your replies. Special thanks to Mick b1 for his advice and the link.

Too tired to do much tonight so will leave it till morning as I don't want to make it worse. First job will be to remove the shear pin in the Lead screw, so far it's resisted all attempts with a hammer and punch so probably best to try to remove the Lead screw from the housing.

Will keep you posted

Thanks

Brian

Need to knock the shear pin out of the Lead screw. Is just a hammer and punch. Seems pretty tight to me

Will have a look later. It seems when I turn the Lead screw manually the handwheel turns dificult wvithout a C spanner for the nut . Can't get it out of gear though. I will put the block back tonight after tea and see how it goes

Will have a look later. It seems when I turn the Lead screw manually the handwheel turns dificult wvithout a C spanner for the nut . Can't get it out of gear though. I will put the block back tonight after tea and see how it goes

Lead screw will now turn but I think the shear pin has gone. I have taken the block off that the traverse lever fits into. The worm gear was stuck but moves in and out now. Just can't turn the cross slide handle although it moves a little bit.

My mistake Mick b1. I did run out of travel. And jammed the slide as you said.

Didn't run out of travel still got 65mm to go. What I did do was cut the motor as the grub screws on the toolpost caught the guard . Switched it back on without disengaging the feed. Oops.

Facing a 6x5 plate this morning from the centre outwards using the powered cross feed and i noticed it had stopped cutting. The leadscrew has stopped turning and the lever to engage has jammed. The cut i was takings was only 2 or 3 thou. No bumps or bangs. Ive fiddled with the knobs but can't free it.

Any pointers on where to start stripping it ?

Tia

Brian

Kwil no it's a dc motor. Fitting a pot with on / off is cheaper than the stop start buttons. Just like the old HiFi tv volume on off control.

The way it's implemented it does nothing to stop you starting it up at full load speed anyway

Went up to Axminster this afternoon and they do this on there smaller siege mills.

Anyway it won't stop me enjoying it. My er32 collet chuck came today all the way from China so it's happy days

Edited By Brian Rutherford on 04/10/2017 15:54:51

Kwil no it's a dc motor. Fitting a pot with on / off is cheaper than the stop start buttons. Just like the old HiFi tv volume on off control.

Went up to Axminster this afternoon and they do this on there smaller siege mills.

Anyway it won't stop me enjoying it. My er32 collet chuck came today all the way from China so it's happy days

It seems mine is normal then. So each time you stop the spindle you are cutting the power to the machine. Unlike the lathes (warco or toolco) where you only cut the supply to the motor I.e inverter and boards remain powered.

Seems a daft way of doing things as it won't do the electronics any good. Also as the instructions say you should start the machine on minimum rpm why Don't they incorporate the on off on the speed potentiometer?

I hi all

Little bit puzzled by the new Toolco wm32 mill. I think it's the same as the warco wm18 so warco owners might be able to help. To try and explain there are 3 switches on the electrical panel on the side of the head. Emergency stop button normally out. The red green start / stop button separated by an amber neon to show power on. A 3 position switch to select forward neutral reverse.

With power plugged in the green start button will not latch  (no power) unless the direction switch is in forward or reverse. On my warco lathe when plugged in rpm display, neon all come on with the direction switch in neutral centre position.

The problem is that when you switch the power on at the socket you need to leave it in forward or it's switched off. This means the spindle rotates continually. Hope this makes sense

Edited By Brian Rutherford on 03/10/2017 21:31:35

Edited By Brian Rutherford on 03/10/2017 21:54:07

Didn't have a pallet truck and would still need to lift it 3ft off the ground to go on bench. All done now though. Used a 2ton block and tackle.bought off Amazon new for £16.50. Absolute bargain . Also used a home made trolley that I knocked up when I bought my lathe

Put head back on this morning all working fine. Went to fit the supplied chuck only to find is doesn't fit the arbor. The chuck is definately b16 as it fits my lathe tailstock chuck. Taper on supplied arbor is 16mm rising to 17.333 at widest part. Came to fit the power feed (which I was going to leave off for time being till i get the feel manually) and found the bolt holes do not line up. Ah well talk to Toolco tomorrow

. Time for sunday dinner with the family now

Managed to put the table on early this morning before going to watch the young grandson play football. Finished off when I got back. Off to watch Coventry play football in a minute with the grandson so that's it for today.

Will put head on tomorrow and tidy up the workshop. Silly old suffer the slides can only go back as they come off. Column and pedestal foot I didn't take apart as advised not too although they are dowelled as are the table end plates.. the grease was to protect but instruction book says to remove it with paraffin then oil

Tim, thanks for the advice I will get my friend to help me on this one although I won't be milling for a week or two as waiting for collet chuck and decent vice. Probably content myself with drilling

Well some progress made. The block and tackle came Wednesday teatime too late to do anything. Thursday afternoon was spent making a short beam to support the hoist from 32mm steel bar and angle iron. Bit of practice with the hoist and some rope then called it a day. This afternoon I thought I'd give it a go and all went well. Mill now bolted down on the tray but still need to put the table and head back on. Hopefully I will get time Sunday

Thanks to all who offered advice it was appreciated

Tab

Brian

Having stripped it I am glad I did so. Plenty of dried on grease that needs washing of with paraffin then a proper lube.

Now I have had it apart I can see how it all works as well. Haven't split the base from the column but these are doweled so it probably would go back okay if I did

Next year I have to re felt the roof. Probably put a course or two of bricks on top to lift the roof up if I feel it needs it. Problem will be I can't tip the head over to 45 degrees but how often do you need to do that ?. Easier to tilt the workpiece I would have thought

Well weather looked hopefully today so I unpacked the pallet so I could have a look. Managed to remove the head on my own quite easily. Took the x-axis table off and the y-axis just left with the column and base. To heavy on it's own but reinforcements are coming after tea tonght. Once it's in the workshop I can decrease while I'm waiting for the hoist to arrive and reassemble over the weekend...

Incidentally now it's unpacked I can measure the distance from the top of the mill to the roof and it's 30mm