Member postings for Brian Rutherford

I have read most of this thread with interest having a warco lathe and toolco mill. I agree with most of the views expressed by the original poster i.e. he has a right to a machine that is totally in specification. What i don't agree with is the claims made by suppliers that that skilled engineers test each machine and fill in a test sheet that shows the results when in fact the tests are "switch on and check it runs".

Ordered the 3 axis kit on March 28th and was delivered today at 9.30am. This is the second set i have bought from the same supplier on the bay. Both times without a hitch. The 2 axis ones for the lathe i had £12 duty to pay plus fedex charge £10 for admin. To fit both lathe and mill has cost me less than £400. Bit of a bargain i think.

First job is to tidy the workshop and clean the machines ..

Ì went to the mining museum a couple of years ago. Parking and entrance were free. The underground tour cost £3 for a check disc which was refundable or you could keep as a souvenir. Extremely good day out for free although we donated to the museum.

I never new i came from a mining background until i was researching the family history and found my great great great grandfather on the in memoriam list of miners that had been killed in pit accidents on the Durham mining museum website. . My father never mentioned it or any of his family for that matter.

Jason been able to measure up this evening. 700mm scale just fits but with the covers on it would be too tight so 650mm it will be. The z axis only moves 330mm not 370mm as Warco & Toolco both claim. I think they are adding on the quill travel! So i think i need to choose between 350 and 400mm

The cross slide 250mm is ample.

Jason can you post a picture of the fixings for the y-axis please???.

Thank you all for your help

Brian

Thanks FMES

mes. I saw that a few months back but couldnt find it when i looked the other day.

Can't understand why the y and z axis are so long.

I was thinking 200mm for y and 350 for z. I think there is only 330 mm and 200 travel on the machine

Edited By Brian Rutherford on 26/03/2018 14:21:03

Of course you are correct in that table length and not travel is 840mm. Like Silly old duffer says it looks neater with a longer scale which is why i suggested 700mm. Overhead on length is 140mm total and should just clear the coolant union. You still pay same price upto 1000mm so no reason not to

Ordering a 3 axis dro from china in the next couple of days to fit to my Toolco vm32. Essentially same as the Warco Wm18.

If anyone has the same sort of setup would be interested in any photos or details on lengths of scales which might help me avoid any pitfalls.

X axis travel is 840mm and was thinking of ordering 700mm scale to avoid overhang as the scales are plus 141mm. My thinking is you would never use the full length of the x axis. Does that sound right ?. Y and z axis the overhang wouldn't matter

Tia

Brian

I bought a 2 axis set from china off the bay. The supplier was very good and will use the same when i do my mill.

Ended up paying £20 extra on duty and paperwork by fedex. Instruction manual is appalling but fitting on my warco was straightforward. No problems with quality and reliability and lets face if just about every computer motherboard is made in china.

Think the record is a no no. Had 2 lots of bad reports. There also seems to be a lot of second hand ones about.

I think the Allwin ones on arc euro look ok the cheaper Titan ones on Screwfix are very cheap but come with 20mm wheels and not 25mm. One thing with Screwfix you can try it and if it vibrates or wobbles you can take it back for an easy refund no arguing

Hi all,

The grinder i'm currently using is a cheapo clarke 6" that i had given me. Thinking of replacing with a new 8" one. Is there any benefit to buying one with wider wheels i.e 40mm white and 25mm coarse as against 20mm. In particular i have been looking at the record range.

The clarke one vibrates a bit and will be used for roughing out tools.

Atb

Brian

I did mark it as its a self centring chuck. Don't know if it was necessary or not but doesn't hurt.

Finished off the backplate today using upside down boring bar. Finished the OD with emery to polish out the chatter marks. The register was cut withe the same tool + new tip and turned out okay a (good fit any way).

Still feels like i bodged it a bit though.

Thanks to all

Hi jason

Replied to rik before you posted. Will try again with the boring tool but using the original toolpost and the bar at the rear of the toolpost

Hi Rik

Tried using a carbide tip boring tool upside down with the lathe in reverse. Not pleasant finish very poor. I wanted to try what you suggest but only have a small r / h knife tool. I do have some 12mm hss blanks so might make one.

Will see if taking the leadscrew out will work first

Hi all,

Bought a new 4 jaw sc chuck in the new year and am in the process of machiningthe backplate. Both sides faced and bored to slip over the headstock spindle. All holes drilled and tapped or counter bored for the chuck bolts. So far so good. Come to turn down the OD and realise the carriage won't travel close enoughto the headstock. Need a minimum of 40mm more travel.

I have a qctp fitted which gives a bit more overhang than the standard toolpost and the compound slide is extended as far as possible.

It appears the carriage is very near to the end of the leadscrew and that limits the travel. Anybody else come up against this problem and how did you overcome it ?

Tia

Brian

I bought a 2 axis kit from china when i bought my lathe last February. I thought it would be easier to fit before the lathe was installed. While its a great bit of kit I would consider it a nice to have rather than essential. Bought the mill last October and can't wait till funds allow a 3 axis set, it will make a massive difference. I had even thought of taking the one off the lathe f or the time being.. when i do get one it will be from china

A good friend of mine in his eighties has mitutoyo verniers and micrometers but only keeps them for "best" and uses his cheap chinese ones for everyday use. Whats the point of having them?. He should give them to me

Lathe all back together now. Crosslide is a little tight but not patchy. Its as if the gibs are done up too tight but they are not. Still its useable. Will probably make a new one in the near future.

Just an update. Got back from Ireland this afternoon so had chance for another look tonight.

Have drilled the brass shearpin out of main leadscrew. Removed the apron and managed to free the halfnut lever. Another shearpin has gone on the shaft holding the gear that drives the cross slide leadscrew.

The cross slide leadscrew i have straightened best i can but it will be tight when wound out near to its limits. Ideally it needs to be replaced. I think the pitch has been stretched. Warco want about £70 including postage and vat for a replacement so i am thinking of making another myself

Partially straightened it. Been ringing Warco all day for cost of replacement but no answers. Might get it good enough to let me make a replacement if warco are too dear. Have had the long lead screw out to knock shear pins out but very tight. Will drill out on the mill. Screw cutting lever is jammed so suspect other bits have sheared in the apron and fell into the bottom. Off to Belfast tonight to see son and grand kids so on hold till Tuesday.