Member postings for ChrisB

Rest assured I won't risk using it as is with the regulator I purchased. I called the gas company I bought the cylinder from this morning but the sales person had no idea what the thread size was, but said they had a regulator which fit my cylinder 100% for 125 euro... so it's either that or identify the thread on my cylinder and solve the problem with a 10 euro adapter (or whatever the connector is called!)

Measured the thread on the cylinder valve and took some pictures to explain better. The pitch for the internal thread is 14tpi similar to bsp, internal diameter (this is the minor diameter) 22.5mm

Now while googling for this thread I came across a CGA 580 which apparently is used for inert gas cylinders in the states, the pitch for the thread is 14tpi as well but could not find any dimensions.

Markings on the cylinder valve

Internal thread and seat on the valve, as you mentioned Jason the regulator connector is rounded and does not seat properly.

Wobbly down

wobbly up

But isn't the BSP and G thread one and the same? The one on the cylinder valve was very close to 5/8bsp, infact the regulator 5/8 thread did engage but was too wobbly... it must be some thread which is very close, I'll try to measure it.

That's what I think, I bought it from the UK and measuring the thread it's close to 5/8Bsp so it should be.

The problem is the thread on the cylinder valve, it's close to 5/8Bsp but slightly larger. On the valve there were some markings and number but googling them didn't yield any meaning ful results. This is what's on the valve:

ISO V

WP200BAR AR He

16-04/134

25E

1370

352

Made in Italy

As it's got made in Italy on it I'm assuming its built to a different standard? I need to identify the thread on the cylinder and try to find an adapter or a new regulator

Update: So in the end I had to settle for a 10Lt cylinder ( the only size available locally apart from the larger 50Lt ones) as no one would deliver from the continent - apparently even an empty bottle is classed as dangerous goods Anyway, I also ordered a regulator and flow meter which arrived this morning. Surprise, surprise the regulator will not fit the bottle! The male threaded union on the regulator will engage on the thread of the bottle valve but with a very loose fit. The regulator is this **LINK** from what I can understand the thread on this is 5/8bsp. No idea what's the thread on the cylinder valve tho.

Thanks gents, lots of useful advice as always - good enough to get me started in the right direction. Will have a look at the local timber shop to see what's available.

Nice! but that would take me a couple of ages to complete! Besides I have three benches to do on which I still have to mount the lathe and mill, so the sooner I'm over and done with the better so I'll start making some swarf!

Was not considering MDF as I thought that was a bit soft for a workshop environment and has a tendency to swell in contact with water so I was heading to marine plywood or some cheapish solid wood. The drawer width being 63cm and bearing in mind that some heavy items will be stored in these drawers (lathe/mill tools) would a wooden base be sufficient?

Hello, I'm at a loss trying to figure out the best way to construct drawers for a workbench and two machine stands. Basically I want three shallowish drawers at the top (10cm deep) and a single deeper drawer (23cm deep). I'm no carpenter so I have no idea how to go about doing them. My thoughts were plywood sides, fronts and backs on telescoping rails and a steel or aluminium bottom, ( if I went for plywood bottom I'd loose more space because of the thickness)... am I on the right track? Ideas and advice are most welcome.

This is what I have in mind, to explain myself better.

Check the gear linkage or cable, could have disconnected in neutral and give you the symptoms you mentioned

The Dormer stub drills I have all end up with a pointed tip with almost no web. Compared to a stub drill a normal twist drill has a much larger web.

There are ones with micrometer scales called floating reamers or David Brown reamers. The reamer has two cutting blades floating on the body which can be adjusted over a range of dimensions. Have one somewhere which I used at work for reaming thin walled precision bushes....very expensive stuff

**LINK**

The site I linked is the manufacturer, they don't normally sell online and give prices.... but you can find similar stuff on online shops with pricing : **LINK**

I was thinking 600mpa was what most common nuts are, the ones which came with the chuck are not marked, but I'm not confident they are of a better quality. From what I could gather there's not much fiddling involved to put that nut on, drop it on the stud and tighten, then lock the nut, just a quarter turn back. If they were rated higher in strength I would be tempted.

Clive your idea is good for a nice project, but I'd rather not mess with the spindle flange for now.

I like your solution John, simple and effective...

Came across these type of nuts : **LINK** and wondered if they could be used for holding a lathe chuck. The WM280 chuck is very awkward to mount for persons with large hands!

Edited By ChrisB on 04/06/2017 12:57:55

As already mentioned by some before I would go for a Polysulphide sealant. I work for an aircraft maintenance company and consequently do a lot of repairs using aluminium.

Preparation for the alu sheet depends on what grade you are using, if it's an unprotected alloy such as unclad 2000 series 7000 series alloys the you will need chromic acid anodizing (alodine or alochrom 1200) or and etch primer.

If on the other hand you're using an aluminium clad alloy or 1000 series ( almost pure) aluminium, you can skip the anodizing part (it will not work any way) and just prime it.

Bonding with a Polysulphide sealant such as PR1440 B 1/2 or 2 (1/2hr or 2hrs curing time) will give you an excellent bond, but its a bit messy and you will need weights and clamps to weigh down the two sheets together.

http://www.ppgaerospace.com/Products/Sealants/Fuel-Tank-Proven-Standards/PR-1440-Clas-B-Fuel-Tank-Sealant.aspx

http://metalfinishingsltd.co.uk/treatments/alocrom-1200/

That would be correct for a dedicated plasma cutter, but as the machine is a combi TIG,plasma,MMA it uses the same gas inlet for both plasma and TIG. So for example plasma will need a pressure of around 6-7bar compressed air (which is what I normally set my compressor at) On the other hand for Tig welding will need around 5/6Lpm, so I cannot use the supplied regulator for that as it does not measure flow.

Thinking about it I could fit a T-fitting with two on/off valves at the inlet, one for Argon and one for compressed air, that way I don't have to switch the hoses from argon to air.

Another thing, in my post above I linked a 20L bottle and I'm tempted to go for it, but do you think it is at all possible to ship a Full Argon bottle for 13Euro? I mean, it's a compressed gas, is it considered a dangerous goods? I emailed them to confirm if the rates are correct...

I see, still will not use it, for the plasma will connect it directly to the air compressor which has a regulator on it.

Thanks for the tips, I've followed quite a few - so much to learn!

While trawling the net I came across a shop in Germany - they have 20L Argon bottles for sale at 190€ filled and delivered to Malta : **LINK** , from the local gas shop a 10L bottle cost 160€ filled, so for 30€ difference I think it's worth going for.

Edited By ChrisB on 15/05/2017 10:33:28

I'm not going to earn a living off welding, it's just for that odd job and hobby use so useless buying an expensive machine. I went for this :**LINK** mainly because it had the stick and plasma function, TIG was a bonus and once it is there I want to learn how to use it. I'm not going to be fabricating any race car manifolds or the likes...not just yet

The welding set came with a basic regulator (it's shown on one of the pictures in the link) but it's so basic I don't want to use it, that's why I started the thread - if both regulators I linked are fine then all the better - I don't need to spend a lot (contrary to what I was assuming)

Edited By ChrisB on 14/05/2017 18:54:46

Edited By ChrisB on 14/05/2017 18:56:36

To be honest I have no experience whatsoever when it comes to TIG welding, the experience I have is with stick and oxyacetylene. Without some sort of flow metering I would probably empty the cylinder in a couple of hours!

The problem is that the local gas supplier (I'm not in the UK) will either sell 10L (2m3) bottles or else hire a larger 6ft tall (10m3) bottle, which will make transporting it a pain (won't fit in my car). I was thinking that a 2m3 bottle if used with a flow of 5L/m would last approx 6hrs continuous use, which I thought would be reasonable as the use for it is for one off' jobs...now if I could find a 20L bottle I would consider it, but most I could find online are for rent or with a deposit, not for export...

Thanks for the advice, will wait until I have the cylinder to make sure that whatever regulator I get will actually fit. The regulator I was offered costs around 70£ whilst most of the ones online were a fraction of that (granted there were one offs costing three figure numbers)