Here is a list of all the postings Steve Crow has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Nickel/German Silver |
30/01/2019 18:02:51 |
That sounds encouraging, I'll try the North London branch. By the way, my late Mother in law worked at Biggleswade Smiths decades ago. |
30/01/2019 17:39:49 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 29/01/2019 18:30:59:
To the best of my very limited knowledge, Steve ... the grade is the same as that used for cutlery. Very happy to be proved wrong [and thus learn something]. MichaelG. . Edit: ... just found this page: Edited By Michael Gilligan on 29/01/2019 18:33:09
Thanks Michael, looks like NS104 is the stuff. Has anyone any experience with buying from Smiths? Do they deal in small quantities?
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29/01/2019 18:16:49 |
I've noticed that a couple of watchmakers make extensive use of German silver in their movements. An independent Irish watchmaker based in Switzerland makes an amazing minute-repeater. You can see it be taken apart here (A hammer is used at one point!) - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYwBeiGy_RQ Also A. Lange & Sohne, a German watchmaker also uses it. There is a factory walk-through here- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGAsib-4mCk I know that German silver is essentially nickel silver. My question is, is there a "horological grade" of NS or something similar? Sort of a NS version of CZ120? Also was it ever used much in clocks or pocket watches? Cheers Steve
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Thread: Mechanical Crab Video |
18/01/2019 16:14:18 |
Added another video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt9QPdwu0qA Cheers Edited By Neil Wyatt on 18/01/2019 16:59:16 |
Thread: Small Milling/Drilling Spindle (again) |
14/01/2019 18:52:22 |
Thank you Michael, some very nice, simple designs there. Such a contrast to the complexity of some others. It's got me rethinking things again. Steve |
14/01/2019 18:19:45 |
I agree on the cone bearing aspect but the appeal of cutter frame in the book is the outboard pulley. I intend to use the frame horizontally on the vertical slide and the only way to drive it is outboard. I think ball-bearings might be the only way to go with that. As regards the spindle book, I'm rather taken aback that a publication (and probably the only work on the subject available) which has been in print for over 20 years can be so flawed. Also, it made me question my own understanding of the subject for the last 3 months! There must be other cases where published designs are flawed? Maybe there should be a thread warning of such things? People put a lot of time, effort and money into building such designs. |
13/01/2019 13:13:38 |
Thank you KB, your reply did indeed enlighten me. Your description of preload is exactly as I understood it. Since getting the spindle book and studying the designs I've been under the impression that I have been missing something regarding preload but I thought the book had to be correct. How about the gearcutting frame in chapter 12? With the fully adjustable bearings at both ends, surely this is a legitimate design? I ask as I am just starting to build a slightly smaller version. Cheers, Steve |
12/01/2019 17:49:14 |
Posted by Kiwi Bloke 1 on 09/01/2019 19:29:29:
Forgive me if I have misinterpreted the drawing, but the design illustrated in JasonB's post is seriously flawed. Both inner and outer races of the nose-end bearing are constrained. The pulley-end outer race is not constrained. This means that the bearings are not pre-loaded and therefore there is nothing 'taking up' the built-in clearance of either bearing, but particularly the nose-end bearing. The clearance is small, but enough to cause problems with milling. A better design, and standard practice, is to have each outer race fitting into a stepped housing, with the nose-end bearing's inner race abutting an 'outboard' step on the spindle. The inner race of the pulley-end bearing is then located by the pulley hub, screwed and locked to the shaft (there is no shaft step at this end). Thus, bearing clearance can be removed. There are other ways of taking up axial clearance, but the essential point is that the illustrated design has none. Now I am confused! The drawing is from the Spindle book and a number of the spindles described use this design. Can anyone enlighten me? Steve |
Thread: Thornton Wheel Cutters |
09/01/2019 17:27:20 |
One more thing I forgot to ask - what's the average thickness (width?) at the bore. Many thanks, Steve |
Thread: Small Milling/Drilling Spindle (again) |
09/01/2019 15:43:31 |
I've a couple of more questions. The bearing retention nuts. Is brass ok? Also, what is the minimum "step" to retain a bearing on shaft? For example a 15mm bearing against a 5/8" diameter is less than half a mm each side. Do I need more meat? Cheers, Steve |
Thread: Thornton Wheel Cutters |
08/01/2019 18:37:37 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 08/01/2019 18:29:01:
http://ppthornton.com/ MichaelG. Thanks, I already looked there and couldn't find this information. Cheers Roy. |
Thread: Small Milling/Drilling Spindle (again) |
08/01/2019 18:33:23 |
Thank you Jason, I've reread the Spindle book and I like your idea very much. I think I can beef up the housing to 1" and go with slightly bigger bearings. Do you think there is much advantage in a double set of front bearing as in some designs in the book? Michael, I'm also liking your idea for cone bearings into bronze. Any idea of the best angle for such cones? Also, has anybody built the wheel cutting frame described in the Spindle book? Cheers, Steve
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Thread: Thornton Wheel Cutters |
08/01/2019 18:25:22 |
Hello, Does anybody know the outer diameter of Thornton Wheel Cutters Mods 0.5 to 1.0? Also, are they all 7mm bore? Cheers Steve |
Thread: Mechanical Crab Video |
08/01/2019 15:18:29 |
Just to add - I'm using a 9v battery in the video. |
08/01/2019 15:16:07 |
I should make another video using a 1.5v battery - it works fine on a AAA. |
08/01/2019 13:55:25 |
Hello, I've finally got round to making a (low quality) video of my walking mechanism. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSllR7m1Zwg Cheers |
Thread: Small Milling/Drilling Spindle (again) |
08/01/2019 11:09:28 |
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 07/01/2019 18:14:00:
Sorry, Steve ...It's your choice, of course, but I still can't understand why you decided against adapting the WW headstock. [quote] Much as I agree with Michael's suggestion to use my existing headstock, I do feel the urge to make one from scratch.[/quote] MichaelG. . Previous thread, for reference: Edited By Michael Gilligan on 07/01/2019 18:14:48
Hi Michael, I did come round to your suggestion but the WW headstock is too big for the very limited space I have.I want to be able to mount the spindle horizontally on the cross slide at centre height as well as on my vertical slide. I only have 23mm from cross slide to centre height. I have a headstock riser block but that just complicates other things.Another problem with the WW is the pulley position would mean getting a drive to it would be a nightmare. Thank you anyway.
Edited By JasonB on 08/01/2019 11:36:35 |
07/01/2019 18:00:06 |
Posted by HOWARDT on 07/01/2019 17:29:59:
Use a combined needle and ball thrust running on hardened shaft. Shaft would need to be ground to attain best fit. Thanks Howard but that set up would be too bulky. I'm looking for something more compact - hence bushes. |
07/01/2019 17:48:48 |
Sorry about the weird emoji thing in my post. It's meant to be a bracket. |
07/01/2019 17:08:09 |
Hello, I posted on this same subject a few months ago but I've struggled to come up with a compact design using bearings. These are my requirements:- I want to make an 8mm watchmaker spindle for my Sherline lathe. 20mm dia. housing. (O/D of spindle is 1/2" Housing no more than 3" long. To be used for drilling and very light milling/engraving. Max speed will be 5000 rpm. How about using bronze bushes? Don't Potts and other spindles use them? Could I use Oilite bearings? If anyone has any thoughts, advice or designs I would be very grateful. Many thanks, Steve
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