Member postings for Jim Nic

+1 for the Diamond tool holder from Eccentric Engineering. (See the advert to the right of this page.)

I bought one over 10 years ago when I started out and it is still my go-to turning tool for most materials. They are not cheap but you get the holder, a HSS bit, a grinding jig and an Allen key. All you need is a grinding wheel, which you will need anyway, and off you go.

I now also have some indexable carbide tools for cast iron and a carbide parting off cutter from Arc Euro which I use on most materials.

Hope this helps

Jim

My current project is our esteemed editor's Norden design which should end up looking something like this:

My last few workshop sessions have been spent making a start on the governor.

First was the flyweight assembly (for scale the shaft is 4mm dia).

Then the bits and bobs to get it in the frame as shown here:

Now come the tricky bits of the governor valve and the linkage to make it work.

Jim

Bill

Definitely studs and nuts, usually steel. When I say studs, I actually use cut down bolts or threaded rod rather than the correct form of stud with a plain portion. BA sizes available from EKP supplies.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 23/01/2022 12:22:10

If it's on, I'm going.

Jim

In my experience commercially available fittings use ME so if you want to make matching fittings on your model you will need the appropriate tools. I use mostly 1/4 x 40 and 3/8 x 32. The size of your model will to some extent dictate the size of pipework and fittings to look right. If you are content to use the commercial items throughout then you probably won't need to cut threads at all.

Of course if you want to make complete fittings for yourself you can use any thread you like.

Jim

Forest Classics still sell a comprehensive range of Mamod models and spares.

Jim

Depends on the age and condition of the mill and how good you are really. A good machinist will probably get a fair result on anything, a poor machinist may blame his shortcomings on the equipment.

Jim

A great looking result, Geoff. Be nice to see a vid of it running.

Jim

As usual a comprehensive and, as far as possible helpful, response from Ketan.

Jim

I think Peak4 has offered to knock up the connector you want but if you don't wish to take his offer up then drop me a PM and I will do it for you.

Jim

A little ampification on the nature of pipes:

1) Pipe is made of a long hole surrounded by metal or plastic centred around the hole.
2) All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length.
3) The ID (Inside Diameter) of pipe must not exceed the OD (Outside Diameter) -- otherwise the hole will be on the outside.
4) Pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
5) Pipe is normally supplied without rust; this can be applied at the job site. NOTE: Some vendors are now able to supply rusty pipes. If available in your area, this product is recommended, as it will save a great deal of time at the job site.
6) All pipe over 500 ft (150 m) in length should have the words "LONG PIPE" clearly painted on each side and end, so that the contractor knows it's a long pipe.
7) Pipe over 3 miles (3.3 km) in length must also have the words "LONG PIPE" painted in the middle, so the contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe or a short pipe.
8) All pipe over 6 ft (1.83 m) in diameter must have the words "LARGE PIPE" painted on it, so the contractor will not mistake it for small pipe.
9) Flanges can be used for joining pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts, quite separate from the big hole in the middle.
10) When ordering 90 or 30 degree elbows, be sure to specify left-hand or right-hand, otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
11) Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipes for going uphill, the contents will flow the wrong way.
12) Couplings should have either right-hand or left-hand threads, but do not confuse the threads otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe, it can unscrew from the other.
13) Pipes shorter than 1/8 in (3 mm) are very uneconomical in use, requiring many joints. They are sometimes known as washers.
14) Joints in pipes for pumping compressed air must be air-tight. Those joints in pipes for water, however, need only be water-tight.

Jim

The safety feature that should be fitted is a restraining peg over which a hole in the rear of the mat is placed to stop the mat from sliding forward.

Some mats that I have bought in the past have come with a metal fitment which the customer is expected to slip under the seat mounting whereupon the matching hole in the mat can be secured.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 04/09/2021 22:59:25

Some good tips in there, very useful. Thanks Eric.

Jim

Should be done next week then George.

Looking forward to seeing the finished engine, I haven't got a Scotch Yoke and I need a "next project" to be thinking about.

Jim

Neat.

Jim

I'm with Dave on this. There have been numerous threads on here over the years initiated by newbies wandering why they can't get a decent finish on a piece of metal when it turned out they had no idea what the spec of the metal was. The advice has always been the same: don't attempt to work with material of unknown spec until you are familiar with your machine, cutters and techniques.

After 10 years learning I still buy most of my materials from Macc Models, one of this sites Shopping Partners, who supplies metals which are largely easily machineable on our hobby machines.

Jim

MickB1. Love the bunny, fascinating.

Jim

I run my engines on air without any seal between joints. I would suggest you also do this for the initial runnings so that if a strip down is required you don't have the problem of cleaning gasket gack off the faces. You may also be lucky and find that the engine doesn't leak air at the relatively low pessures you will hopefully need and you can leave it gasket free.

Jim

Further to my post above:

I dug about some more and found that the belts came from an e-bay seller called "hifi_audio_parts". I'm guessing they are tape deck drive belts.

Hope this helps.

Jim