Member postings for Lawrie Bradly

What a ripper. Excellent job. Congratulations.

By coincidence, I spent a couple of hours today working on my engines, only to find that my adaptations to Beng's design for the twin have completely stuffed up all the clearances, and it won't spin.

What an idiot.

I might though be able to fix it. We'll see. Otherwise it will involve going back to square one for the crankshafts and conrods.

Eventually I'll let you know. Just for now I'm embarrassed.

Hi Brian,

Maybe the brass plates could be straightened by tapping them on an anvil, perhaps with a plate between the hammer and 'the work', and 'the work' and the anvil, to prevent damage? (We should all have an anvil, but I've only got a vice I made in Tech' school. It does though, however, provide the necessary flat solid metal surface).

Looking back at Ian's photo of the V10 Stuart engine, I'm reminded of the nexus between restoring motorbikes and steam model making. There are a few bikes in the background of Ian's photo. I've got three bikes (Ariel and BMW) I've restored in my garage and no room now for any more. That's one of the reasons I'm now stuffing about with little steam engines. I am also appreciative of the fact that they are a damn site less expensive to play about with than old bikes

By coincidence, I finally got back today to milling the slots in the conrods of my Danni engines (a single and a twin - effectively three engines), I'm not getting a 'perfect result', but then if you aim at perfection you're bound for disappointment..

Regards, Lawrie.

That's very interesting Ian, about the steam generator for clandestine radio batteries. I googled it and came up with a photo and short description of the ALCO Steam Generator (Stuart/Sirius) - UK 1944. This is the link: http://www.campx.ca/WWIIClandestine.html Another reference said the Australian War Memorial has one. I bought a set of castings for a Stuart 10V engine off eBay a while ago and intend starting on it when I've finished my Danni projects. My set of castings were originally bought in England in 1976. The bloke who bought them never got around to it and after he emigrated to Australia they remained in his wardrobe in country NSW for about 40 years, before he sold them to me. There is a great series of about 30 step by step videos on Youtube by 'Tinker John' on building the 10V. I know I could have bought the castings new from Stuarts, but I rather like the history of this set - all documented with original receipts, etc. As it is, if I mess up any of the castings I might need recourse to Stuarts, but I hope not.

On the subject of boilers, here is my set up. Seeing it, some people laugh. Why would that be?

That sounds like an interesting project Pierre. (I was joking about the steam-powered dentists' drill.) Regards, Lawrie

Hi Pierre, I am intrigued as to what your project might be, that needs lots of rpm's. A dentists' drill perhaps? Regards, Lawrie.

Hi Brian, I only mentioned the dynamo because you said you might be fitting one (if you could get the engine running fast enough), in one of your previous posts. It certainly looks like it's got plenty revs of oomph now in the video. In the past I've thought a bit about generating a bit of gas-fired electricity myself, but actually I think I've decided I'm just as happy to see engines run for their own sake.

The camera image is much, much clearer and the engine certainly runs beautifully. I am expecting to see a dynamo and light mounted shortly.

Hi Brian, for connecting steam/air to the single cylinder engine I'll follow the plans, but like you will add in a displacement lubricator. It'll probably look a lot like yours.

I haven't worked out yet the details for getting steam/air to the twin cylinder, but have in mind a displacement lubricator on a copper pipe centrally between the cylinders, then a T piece with a branch to each across the top. I might need to mount the lubricator on a brass post. I'm yet to explore the availability of pipe fittings.

I made a bit of progress today on the big end bearings for the twin cylinder version.

Hi Brian,the steam plant is looking great.

The parts on the left are from the Bengs 'Danni' kit. It wasn't possible to replicate the radius on the scratch-made bits for the twin cylinder, so I settled for an approximate profile.

The opposing faces will need sanding down (on plate glass) to get the (now slightly oval) holes round and 5.8 mm diameter, then to be reamed to 6.00 mm. Drilling and tapping the M2 holes for the screws that hold them together is going to be a bit fiddly, but I've already done similar for the main bearings, so hopefully it'll be okay.

Brian, My unreserved congratulations. The engine looks fanstastic. I have every confidence that you will resolve the other engine's pin hole leaking problems. Some time, some day, I might similarly be able to report on the success of my engine projects, but don't hold your breath. Regards, Lawrie.

Yeah, I should have got a photo of that. It was though before the advent of smart phones. Still, no excuse.

Jason beat me to it - again!

Well, maybe the chuck AND tailstock!

i've been thinking for a while about grubscrews gripping on the crankshafts on my two engines. I intend milling flats for the flywheels straight off, but thought I would initially just lightly clamp the eccentric grub screws onto the shaft until I am sure the timing is optimal, then use the marks made by the grubscrews to mill flats in the right place.

Hi Jason, Very well observed. I hadn't taken proper notice of the limitations of Brian's lathe. When I was looking around for one a few years ago a wise friend advised that, "You can do small jobs on a big lathe but (obviously) not big jobs on a small lathe." This steered me away from the Myford and Hercus hobby lathes I had been thinking about. As it happened, out walking the dog, I spied a bigger lathe stored in a garage about half a kilometre from our place. To cut a long story short I bought it for (I think) $1,200. It is a Tida model TD-4A and has 10" swing over the bed. Made in Taiwan in 1984. It is a gem. To get it home, I harnessed five mates to a pallet trolley early one Sunday morning and we pushed it, in places up the middle of the road. I'll post a photo!

Hi Brian, I'm hoping I can replicate your success when I finally get around to finishing the steam chest and soldering it to the cylinder.. However, in the meantime, I really don't like the idea of packing the wood blocks to give clearance for the flywheel. For finesse, it should look like it looks in the drawings! In my limited experience, cast iron turns as easily as brass. If you've had problems, I think they probably have more to do with the cutting tool you're using, than the size of your lathe. I suggest you find the right tool and then turn down the flywheeel the extra 2.00 mm. To your credit, everything else about the engine is pretty much to spec. It would be a pity to deviate. Regards, Lawrie.

That is a really great result Brian. It looks great too. Excellent work. Congratulations.