Member postings for Adrian R2

Thanks folks. I've got a Bodine motor which I will try, but I will need to remake the jockey wheels first as the set that came with it (on a separate freestanding post) are too big to - more like the ones on this similar tool http://www.myford-lathes.com/misc2.html - and don't align properly with the spindle.

It's just turned up in the post - flicking to the appropriate page he recommends a Parvalux SD28, 1/2th hp at 1400rpm, so yes the sewing machine one will be much too fast.

I bought what I now know is a Geo Thomas Universal Pillar Tool at the weekend. I admit I didn't know that was what it was at the time but it looked interesting and the seller was a friendly chap so deal was done.

It came with the sensitive drilling head but no accessories, so I have ordered a copy of his book and can have the fun of finding or making those, but getting to the point there was no motor either so what should I be looking for to suit the device? My first thought was a sewing machine motor, description of which says 180W and up to 10,000rpm - would that be good or perhaps a bit too fast and whirry?

Thanks in advance.

How long do you want it to run for? Could you power a steam engine from a refillable Co2 bottle as used on small welders or soda streams? Or use an electric compressor to fill an air tank?

(Tin hat on, I have no idea what the consumption of a suitable engine would be and haven't done the sums...)

Very neat.

A probably daft question on the castings with holes - have you ever tried patching small defects? Perhaps prepare the edges of the missing bits under a flux of some sort and then pour in some new molten metal? From what I can see you have formed all the important bits so just a question of stopping the oil falling out.

Thanks for that. I bet it gets quite warm in your workshop with it running My teenage son got interested in casting last year so we built a furnace from an old propane cylinder and reclaimed a burner from a space heater as my blowtorch wouldn't generate enough heat. We've done a few things since but haven't really got the hang of making the sand moulds yet hence the curiosity as to what others are using. I've been following your compatriot "Olfoundryman" on youtube for tips to try and improve.

Keep us updated with the build,

Adrian

Well done, you must have a good steady hand, things I try like that rarely end up circular. Glad it worked out anyway.

Adrian

Do you have a bench grinder with a good rest? If so rig up a stop block and grind the end of the key rotating it against the stop block, should get it close enough.

You need to take 0.75mm off each side so clamp the stop block with a shim of that thickness and the key against the wheel, then remove the shim and commence grinding.

Hi Fred,

Interesting old tractor, I bet that has a nice chug to it when running. I'd be interested in some photos of your casting setup if convenient.

Adrian

I've got the compound/topslide, however no holes in it that will line up with the either the angle bracket or vice.

Adrian

Edited By Adrian R2 on 13/08/2020 10:56:42

Thanks, it's useful at least to know that these are intended for use with the lathe. I've found a picture now that also shows the lathe with the angle bracket and a fully machined vice as you describe. It also had a proper vertical slide but looks like that was an option. I hadn't thought of trying to remount the cross slide, will have to look at that again.

Likewise I haven't use this for anything for a while but would still like to know what I've got.

Adrian

Thanks for the reply Neil - do (A) and (C) give some vertical slide capability? If so where do you mount them?

(B) pivot for a hand held tool, interesting idea, I wonder what the tool holder would have looked like. Re-examining the bits again last night I noticed that the small hole has a spring inside it - some sort of pin or ball detent?

Adrian

Can anyone tell me if the items below are accessories for this Flexispeed, or if they have just been put in the same box because they are painted a similar hammered blue.

A is an angle bracket, but doesn't seem to fit anywhere on the lathe.

B might be a riser, it is the same width as saddle; doesn't appear to fit tailstock.

Bolt holes on vice C are on same centres as A but different diameters.

Thanks in advance for any help.

(p.s. I do have the lathe cross slide but it was removed in this photo)

I melted some scrap copper once and poured it into a "non-stick" thin steel yorkshire pudding tray. This approach had worked fine for aluminium but the copper stuck so well that I ended up cutting the tray into segments and then grinding the steel remants off. Not recommended!

Not if you are just dumping it in a "metal" skip. If you intend to sell it you will get more money for separates.

If you have the facilities, milling the new hole would be better than drilling as it is less likely to wander off and follow the joint. On a small holes I have managed this with a cheap (i.e. disposable) end mill in my pillar drill chuck which I know isn't good practice but does work.

This may be of interest - https://woodgears.ca/air_engine/, seems to run nicely and plans are for sale quite reasonably.

There is also a nice gear template generator on the site (as you might guess from the name!)

edit: oops, missed earlier reference, but the air engine specifically is worth an extra mention.

Edited By Adrian R2 on 15/06/2020 13:16:15

Pressure switch is a sealed unit, no adjustments possible. Gauge could be under reporting, not tested that. Safety I would have expected to fail low rather than high as it's a spring and that would be how one ought to work (?!)

I suspect it labours because it's a cheapo oil free unit - cylinder head gets pretty hot and you can hear the beat change as it runs up so presumably some expansion going on that reduces efficiency. TBH I would love to junk it and get one of the silent fridge motor types but they are expensive and it is rarely used so not a priority for expenditure, just a bit of a puzzle.

Not the same arrangement as mine unfortunately, the pressure switch is a separate component rather than being combined with the gauges etc. We're talking about this beastie, the offending switch being an SK-0810.

https://www.sipuk.co.uk/sip-06236-airmate-tn-1-5-25-o-oil-free-air-compressor-230v.html

Adrian

I've got one of these which is puzzling me. It's supposed to be 150psi but labours to get up to this pressure and then as soon as it does the safety valve blows and depressurises before the compressor cuts out. I thought the cutout switch was defective so removed it but when tested with a high pressure cycle pump it seems to work as intended (NC, opens at around 150psi, closes again at 120psi).

My current plan is to derate the cut out switch to a 120/90 equivalent, are there any better ideas?

Adrian