Pinnacle bench drill chuck key

Recently been given a Pinnacle PD-10 bench drill but without a chuck key. It has a 13mm chuck labelled "Select Capo JT-6 13mm". The unusual thing is that the 13mm chuck keys I have or have bought online do not fit.

The chuck itself apart from the description above is 46mm in diameter with 30 teeth and a 6.5mm Pin (Pilot Shank).

Anyone know where I can source a replacement chuck key? Very few online sources describe anything other than the chuck size i.e in my case 13mm. I've already bought one online that didn't fit - so don't want to try this scattergun approach again.

Ideally, you would go to a Show with the chuck and search stands until you find a key that fits.

But these are not normal times, anywhere in the world.

In the past, there have been one or two instances, where the pinion on the chuck key fits the chuck, but the spigot is too large. In these cases, the chuck key has been put into the lathe and the spigot turned down to a snug fit in the hole in the chuck body.

May not be absolutely correct, but it does the job!

Howard

Have a look at:

https://www.newmantools.com/jacobs/keys.htm

and

http://www.lfachucks.com/reichel-chuck-keys.html

and

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/14/23/16/142316275572519dbd692ea68215ae90.png

to see if they help.

Also, if the keys you have either mesh too tightly or too loosely, you can press the sleeve on or off to adjust. See:

http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm

Thanks Howard - I have just looked at my other chuck keys and one that came with a B16 3-16mm SAN OU does have the correct tooth spacing but has an 8mm pin. Perhaps I'll go and get a 16mm chuck key and as you say turn it down.

I've just sent an email to EXCEL Machine Tools in Coventry who, according to the Model Plate originally supplied the machine in 1986 to see if they can supply said chuck key.

And thanks to DC31k for all those website addresses - will investigate.

You could get a replacement JT6 chuck either keyless or with keys. JT6 is the taper at the rear of the chuck and there are plenty of available options. Replacement keys may cost as much as a new chuck, seems to be the way some suppliers work.

Martin C

Just to update - a 16mm 8mm pin chuck key is winging itself to me as I speak - and once arrived it goes into the 4 jaw independent chuck on the lathe and I follow Howard's advice and turn it down to 6.5mm.

Ah! Someone else that I have led from the path of righteousness!

Hope it all goes well

Howard

Now the next problem. The chuck key looks case hardened and initial attempts to machine it with carbide inserts seems to confirm that (although I'm no expert - let's cut to the chase and confirm that I am actually a novice). Because of the less than ideal way of holding the chuck key in my independent 4 Jaw chuck - I've just been attempting very shallow passes along the pin - and not much seems to be happening except a lot of squealing from the interaction. Probably because carbide inserts are meant to be worked harder than I'm doing. Filing the rotating pin doesn't seem to do much either. Have thought about a Dremel with grindstone attachment held securely with a novel clamp in the toolpost being run counter-clockwise to the rotating pin - but it's all getting a bit Heath Robinson'ish. Any other suggestions or replies to the following questions gratefully accepted.

1) Are chuck keys case-hardened and to what depth?

2) What steel are chuck keys generally made from? - important for the next possible step

3) Do I try and and Anneal the pin and quench slowly in sand and then machine?

Do you have a bench grinder with a good rest? If so rig up a stop block and grind the end of the key rotating it against the stop block, should get it close enough.

You need to take 0.75mm off each side so clamp the stop block with a shim of that thickness and the key against the wheel, then remove the shim and commence grinding.

Adrian - thanks. I can set up a solid rest support against my bench grinder and take your advice.

Adrian - no patience me - just hand-held against grinder and rotated. Used my drill size guide as a template to see how I was getting on and when I had arrived. It will never win awards - but it works. Thanks.

Well done, you must have a good steady hand, things I try like that rarely end up circular. Glad it worked out anyway.

Adrian