Member postings for Martin Cargill

Another late reply....

I have a submersible Chinese pond pump running in soluble oil on my Victoria U1 mill. Seems ok so far (its been under the suds mix for about 3 months). The pump is 12 volt and is only the size of a matchbox but it is lifting coolant about a metre and is pumping a substantial flow out through twin flexible nozzles. I did make up a small mesh filter to stop it from trying to ingest swarf etc. If it keeps going its a cheap solution to pumping coolant as it only cost £6.

I bought the pair of flexible outlet coolant pipes from ebay (complete with shut off valves) for under £2 and hooked them up to a 'T' piece so that I can flood both sides of a cutter at once. The 'T' piece is mounted on an 'L' shaped bracket which has 2 magnets attached to it (£4 from ebay). With the magnets the coolant outlet can be positioned anywhere on the table, the vice, the overarm or the vertical head, or even the part being machined - whatever suits the job in hand.

Martin

Is the tailstock MT3 and the headstock 1.5" BSF ? If not I'm not buying it because I couldn't swap tooling between this and my Viceroy !

Martin

Single phase or phase? The pic shows two overload relays does the mill have a coolant pump or a power feed?

I bought a 1250 kg mill in London and had it delivered to Glasgow for about £100 (so that I could do some work on it at my place of employment). It had to be strapped to a pallet by the seller and lifted with a forklift at both ends. If the seller can strap it onto a pallet and lift it onto the transport then you can probably get a local haulage company to accept delivery at your end and do the final section of delivery with a hiab lorry. I had a local haulier uplift mine from Glasgow and deliver it home to Fife for £100 including the hiab crane lift into my garage.

Martin

Schools have their pillar drills fitted with foot operated emergency stop switches. They are there because if a drill binds in a hole and you are holding onto a vice with one hand, and the other is holding the handle for the quill movement, which do you let go of to switch off the drill with its normal stop switch??? Foot operated switches have been adopted for other machines as people see them on drills.

If you are looking for accessible machine safety a wire rope switch is probably the best idea. It can be run around the machine, or even a couple of machines. You can purchase a kit containing the switch, tensioner, wire rope etc.

Martin

It does work but its an unusual way to wire a contactor. A and B are the contactors contacts. N.O. and N.C. are separate start and stop buttons.

You can purchase uninsulated crimp ferrules that are intended to be used on the ends of multi strand wires going into contactors etc. They are available in a multitude of diameters. I have used them (along with heat shrink tubing) to make very effective joints in cables.

Robbo. Any extra stop buttons need to be wired in series with the existing button, not across it

Difficult to tell what you have got. The Santon switch numbers you are giving sound more like ratings for the switch rather than the model number, without a model number its difficult to trace what you have. It may be possible to sit down with a multi meter and work out what the switch is doing and then add it to the circuit. Having said that it is more difficult to reverse a single phase motor compared to a 3 phase motor.

To reverse a 3 phase motor all you need to do is swap two of the incoming phases. To reverse as single phase motor, assuming its a capacitor start motor, you need to reverse the connections to the capacitor and start winding. On some motors this is easily done as the terminals are brought out to allow you to do this easily, however I cannot imagine that a Clarke bench grinder has this feature and finding the correct winding terminals will probably be difficult.

First things first. Is your machine 3 phase? Secondly are there any terminal markings on your santon switch? If it has nine terminals its probably for a 3 phase motor

What you have is a circuit breaker that protects the motor and can switch it on and off. To control your saw in the manner that you describe you probably need to run it in series with a contactor.

What RPM is the saw running at ?

What  exact model of invertor?

Try https://inverterdrive.com/file/IMO-Cub-Quick-Ref-Guide. Parameter change instructions are on the second page. 

Edited By Martin Cargill on 29/10/2017 20:01:54

Edited By Martin Cargill on 29/10/2017 20:37:49

Many thanks to all who replied. I now have a grasp on what the cutters I have are capable of. I now need to get the engine crane out and remove the vertical head, so that I can try some horizontal milling

Martin

I purchased a Victoria U1 horizontal mill a few months ago. After fettling most of its problems, converting it to single phase and then getting all 1.25 tons of it into my workshop I'm now at the stage where I can start playing with the beast! Then it suddenly struck me that apart from the time I spent in the training school at the start of my apprenticeship some 40 years ago I haven't ever used a horizontal mill.

I have a large selection of cutters but I don't know what speeds, feeds or depth of cut etc. that I can run them at. Can anyone provide any general guidance or point me towards any suitable literature.

Martin

Why not power it directly from a diesel engine? No need for a motor or a generator.....

Phase convertors have a "ghost" phase. If your machine has its control circuit connected to the ghost phase it won't energise the control gear. Try swapping the phases about to see if it makes any difference.

Martin

Just watched your video -looks good. If you add a pulley block to the cable and anchor the hook back onto the hoist it will run at half speed when lifting and lowering - that will make it safer and lessen the snatch as it first lifts

.Martin

Oh this is about attaching gears..........I thought it was related to preparation for a night out!

Don't know where you are located but we use a company called Manchester Seals for our hydraulic seals etc. They are good at matching seals, o rings etc. when we can't obtain them from the original manufacturer. Give them a call on 0161 832 7992.

Martin