Member postings for CHARLES lipscombe

Bad luck for Noah if he was hoping his lathe and milling machine were going to breed and restock the world

Success at last

Following the tips given, I accomplished the job with no cracking. There was a very marked reduction in the amount of effort required to form the bend, which leads me to conclude that the new brass tube I purchased was well-and-truely age or stress hardened.

I stress relieved the bends by re-annealing afterwards because of the amount of displacement of the brass but I can see that this would be unnecessary for a cartridge case where little displacement of the metal occurs.

Thanks to everyone who contributed, Chas

Thanks for that "Old Mart" . Googling seasonal cracking has revealed a need to anneal brass after the bending etc has been completed. I had not come across that before but it is quite likely to be needed in my application

Ah! That's a much better response once I re-sited my request

My thanks to everyone that replied and I conclude that cooling rate is not important for brass annealing.

A problem that arises with this job is well-known to old vehicle restorers - it has to look like the original so different methods e.g. fabrication are not always viable. The problem is more apparent on a restored motorcycle because just about all the parts required are visible. Both Clive and Diogenes' comments are the way I would like to go but.........

The consolation is that these articles were made well before WW2 and in mass-production so the job must be do-able and moreover easily done, or it would not have been carried out in mass production. "All" we have to do is solve the "how"

Regards, Chas

Hi Thor,

Thanks for your reply which I found very helpful. It seems that the rate of cooling of brass after annealing does not affect the properties of the annealed brass very much.

I have transferred my original posting to a new thread so maybe I will get more replies. Hopefully they won't be contradictoryI still need to know the temperature to use and maybe this will come up in further replies

P.S. I'm most impressed by your forum name. A nice piece of imaginative thinking

Regards, Chas

I think I shot myself in the foot with a previous enquiry on this subject by tacking it onto an existing thread which covered several subjects. The replies I got mainly concerned the other subjects as people referred to the OP's queries.So I am now trying again starting a new thread.

My question is:

What is the correct procedure for annealing brass? There is plenty of info on the webb but just about every piece of advice seems to be contradicted by the next article.

I am making some petrol filler necks for vintage motorcycles from CZ 26130 brass which is an arsenic containing cartridge brass.It is listed as good for cold working but only fair for hot working. I need to bend a small tab at right angles to the main axis and as-supplied tubing when bent cold, cracks on the outside of the bend. Wall thickness of the tube is 1.63 mms.

In particular, does the brass need cooling rapidly or slowly after heating?

Somehow I have a lot more confidence in the forum and its contributors than You-tube

What is the correct procedure for annealing brass? There is plenty of info on the webb but just about every piece of advice seems to be contradicted by the next article.

I am making some petrol filler necks for vintage motorcycles from CZ 26130 brass which is an arsenic containing cartridge brass.It is listed as good for cold working but only fair for hot working. I need to bend a small tab at right angles to the main axis and as-supplied tubing when bent cold, cracks on the outside of the bend. Wall thickness of the tube is 1.63 mms.

In particular, does the brass need cooling rapidly or slowly after heating?

Somehow I have a lot more confidence in the forum and its contributors than You-tube

More realistically just put a piece of the film in water with a small amount of detergent. Only polythene and polypropylene have a density less than water and will float. All others will sink.

I would rate the chances of the film being PVC as virtually zero and the chances of harming yourself by burning a small piece of PVC also as virtually zero unless you do something moronically stupid, of course.

PVC is nowhere as common as it used to be, partly because it is a difficult material to recycle compared to PET and polythene. When it was widely used e.g. in transparent bottles I can't remember ever reading of any cases of people being poisoned by fumes of burning PVC unless the fire took place in a confined space e.g. an aircraft interior.

There is a definite place for personal safety in all we do but it is sensible also to beware of the hysterical over reaction so often promoted by the media.

My thanks to all who replied with some very convincing answers to my question. Some of the replies that a pedant would regard as slightly off topic were just as fascinating to me

Cornish Jack: I don't know about the current situation but in the 80's Burma was always regarded as "history in motion"

Chas

Having been castigated for going off topic re water in fuels (unjustly in my opinion) I will start a new thread....

In view of the increased power available from the use of methanol in high compression engines, does anyone know why WW2 aero engines stayed on petrol?

There may have been experimental jobs but I am thinking Hurricane, Spitfire etc

Chas

At long last I have been tempted to weigh in to the ethanol in petrol debate. The "problems" with ethanol fuel seem to have been greatly exaggerated to me. Australia has been using up to 10% ethanol in fuel for many years (10-15?).

In this time I have used it in three Toyotas dating from circa 1980 to 2000 plus in a variety of vintage and veteran motorcycles. I have never had the slightest problem from its use but the oldest Toyota runs a bit more smoothly on ethanol fuel, probably because of a rather poor state of tune.

More to the point is that I have never seen any reports of people having problems with ethanol fuel. Given the normal human tendency to knock anything new -it's not as good as what we used to have- I think it is safe to say that anyone using ethanol fuels is most unlikely to suffer any problems, despite theoretical disadvantages from possible water content and solvent power on fuel lines etc.

I don't include people who are using tank liners or fibreglass tanks in this comment. However being a very cold-intolerant person, my vintage bikes often sit for months in the winter and I have not noticed any rust formation in the tanks.

Maybe the dampness of the climate has an influence but there again I have never heard of problems from the tropical, monsoon area of Australia either

Chas

Naptha for all intents and purposes is white spirit. Whilst ethanol and isopropanol may not greatly affect the paintwork, they are not great solvents for oily residues either.Of the two, my money would be on iso-propanol. Paraffin as present in WD 40 might be an answer.

Odourless white spirit might also work, it has rather less solvency than the straight version.

Chas

Clive Foster,

Your reference to the tapers holding on a Velocette but not on a Gold Star is very interesting but would you be prepared to speculate on why the Gold Star fitting is less satisfactory? Is the Velo set-up longer? Just idle curiosity on my part

Are you by any chance the son of the great Bob Foster of New Imperial TT fame? If so, we have corresponded ages ago re my using some photos for my book on New Imperials

Chas

Brian,

No not correct. White spirit is wholly aliphatic but Mineral Turps is about 40% aromatic e.g. Xylene. For many products Mineral Turps is a much better solvent than White Spirit.

Shell used to market a solvent called X32 in Australia which is very close to white spirit. You might be able to buy true white spirit retail e.g from Bunnings.

Chas

Re postings on another thread:

Is my somewhat unreliable memory playing tricks on me? I always understood that the Renault Dauphine was something of a disaster of a motor car with a dangerously poor weight distribution at the front end. Certainly one place I worked at, one of our people was blocked off in the parking lot when he wanted to go out at lunchtime. The problem was solved by two not particularly hefty blokes picking up the front end of the Dauphine and moving it aside.

I also thought that the insurance companies had refused to insure Renault Dauphines after a while because they were a) unreasonably represented in accident figures due to the weight distribution b) prone to catastrophic rust problems that compromised safety.

Anyone remember this?

Chas

Many people in Australia outside of the cities use collected rainwater as their only source of water for drinking washing etc. Where I live, we do have mains supply but I collect rainwater for use on the veggie patch and in my home brewing. Not sure whether it affects the taste of the beer as I have never tried brewing from the horribly chlorinated and fluoridated stuff that comes through the mains.

Chas

My thanks to everyone who replied, I should be able to sort something out from the sources suggested

Chas

Can anyone tell me a source of carbide burrs? I need 6 or so burrs, cylindrical type, 2mms cutting diameter, to suit a Dremel, . There are millions (well thousands anyway) of ebay sites listing sets of cutters for dremel but these are of no use to me, I don't want to buy a sets of cutters with maybe 9 cutters in shapes I will never use.

I am not particularly conversant at computer searching so maybe someone can suggest a search term that would help?

Best wishes, Chas

PAUL LOUSICK: Maybe I did not make myself clear - If I google solidworks I get plenty of available tutorials BUT no free tutorials for Solidworks 2018. Earlier versions yes but not 2018. Paid tutorials yes but none free.

However there could be suitable tutorials on individuals websites with titles like JOEBLOWSTIPS that I don't think would come up as sources of Solidworks tutorials if I search for solidworks tutorials on google. Am I correct in thinking this?

I was hoping someone could point me to a site like joeblows tips with the help I need.

As far as I know solidworks is the current industry standard for CAD work - would be interested to know if this is correct?

Regards, Chas

I have access to solidworks and at 79 years of age I am starting to learn this program. (Is this a record? ). Not the easiest of the CAD programs to grapple with I'm sure, but there it is.

I'm having trouble finding a suitable tutorial and I suspect there is someone on facebook somewhere with tutorial(s) for Solidworks 2018.

Does anyone know of such a site or a good book on the subject? By googling I have not found any free tutorials for Solidworks 2018, only earlier versions. While there are probably not many changes to earlier versions it can be quite baffling for an absolute beginner if selecting a particular option does not produce the result in the video

Chas