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Member postings for sean logie

Here is a list of all the postings sean logie has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Crosslide acme thread
08/02/2017 10:22:08
I'm toying withe making a new 5/8 od crosslide feed screw . Is this possible to do by just holding in chuck and live centre on the tailstock without any other kind of support. ..ie..steady rest . The feedscrew is about 12" . I'm only planning the thead part of the FS and then joining the none thread part to the new FS if that makes sense at all .

Sean
Thread: Salt shaker
05/02/2017 15:15:52
First proper functional thread and happy with end result. Helped by also having my new to me mitutoyo calipers . I have two micrometers coming this week ,so that will be something else to learn . Hats off to you guys who do this for a living . I appreciate every time I use my Fortis how much skill it takes to complete accurate finished work pieces (first time) unlike me who had two attempts at threading the top piece of the shaker lol . Any critique welcome . I'm here to learn .


Sean
Thread: HSS for grinding
05/02/2017 10:20:39

I've been trying different styles of grind on HSS with some success which is persuading me to stick with HSS more than inserts for two reasons ...better finish and cheaper ,I'll still use inserts for any large removal of material .

Is it true that you can make HSS too sharp on the cutting edge ?.... I've tried straight off the grinder and then ground and honed and I have to say that for me straight off the grinder (no honing ) seems to last longer ,not as nice of a finish though .

Sean

Thread: Mercer or John Bull?
04/02/2017 13:05:22
Posted by martyn nutland on 08/05/2015 13:34:31:

That's all very well...but could someone please help me with using a dial test indicator!

I have a Mercer (0001" reading) I bought on Ebay. When it's at rest in it's case it reads 13 increments anti-clockwise of zero. I assume this creates an initial pre-load back to zero when you start to work? I'm trying to use it to centre the spindle of my milling machine over a 23mm hole in the centre of an adaptor plate I'm trying to make for a lathe chuck.

I insert the Mercer in a Jacob's chuck in the mill quill. I know I should have it in a collet but at the moment I don't have a suitable collet only Posilock ones. I then eye things up to roughly centred by manipulating the X and Y axis of the mill and then push the stylus of the Mercer out with the tip of a scriber until it makes contact with the wall of the hole. Now when I rotate the quill/chuck/spindle by hand the stylus loses contact with the hole 'by a mile' (or at least by so much it's clearly visible to the eye).

Even if I manage to keep the stylus in contact I have wildly extreme readings of eccentricity (e.g. 170/180 increments on the Mercer dial. I try to eliminate this by 'halving the value' by manipulating the X or Y handles according to where I think the high spots are, but never get very far. Should this be done only every 90°. I.e. get the stylus lying in the same plane as the X axis and half the discrepancy, then move on 90° until it's in the plane of the Y and repeating.

And even if I can get a zero reading through most of a sweep it's usually because the stylus has lost contact with the hole altogether.

Clearly this is an incompetent mess on my part and I would be very grateful if someone could tell me how you use a dti - Mercer or otherwise! Much on the internet but, of course 'theirs' always sweeps to within a couple of 'thou' straight off.

Martyn N

PS In the case there's a flat rectangular bar about 2.5 inches long. It has an attachment at one end to house the stalk of the Mercer and I assume it considerably extends the diameter the stylus can sweep. But in what would you hold, horizontally (or vertically) such a flat bar to sweep a diameter?

You can zero your dial once you have preloaded the dial against the work piece by turning the outer ring on the gauge to zero .

Sean

Thread: Kennedy Vernier calipers
28/01/2017 18:50:45
They are definitely the real deal . The guy owned them for 5 years . I have a 1" test block and it measures spot on every time ,I keep trying it lol . I turned a bushing this afternoon to test them out and I couldn't be happier on how they performed. Ebay is riddled with counterfeit good ,it's a minefield.

Sean
28/01/2017 10:30:01
Well ... I bagged myself a set of beautiful Mitutoyo 6" calipers (used but like new condition) silky smooth and heavy compared to my other cheapo set

Sean
21/01/2017 12:55:54

Anyone have any experience with these

Kennedy 331-206 Digital Vernier Caliper 150mm

Thread: HSS for grinding
21/01/2017 09:00:51

Thanks everyone for your input ,I have ground HSS tools with some success .My biggest problem is that i have quite a bit of steel round stock in various diameters i just don't know what kind of steel they are. Up to now a lot of it seems quite hard (a lot of the material was sourced from a distillery and was used for making shafts for elevator rollers and the like, so I'm assuming that's why it appears to be tough stuff .) I have trouble sometimes with HSS in that the cutting edge flattens ,gets a tad frustrating and that's when i turn to carbide inserts . Hss does give the better finish on both steel and aluminium IMO .

Sean

19/01/2017 20:53:03

Found these as well,my kinda price wink 2, I still need to learn how to put a nice grind on a piece of HSS ,I'm getting there ...slowly .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10Pcs-17-Types-Carbide-Tips-Inserts-Blade-Cutter-External-Turning-Tool-With-Box-/132048087689?var=&hash=item1ebeadea89:m:mUzTvGO176d6vZ1BQP4yjGg

Thanks for your help Paul ..

Sean

19/01/2017 20:27:18

Which do you use for your tooling . I have a few bits ,some work better than others .Unfortunately there's no name on any of them .I guess what I'm asking is ,any recommendations on what to get . I'm nearly running out of my freebie carbide inserts lol... cnmg 432 are way too expensive!! for my playing about on the Fortis.

Sean

Thread: New member in Aberdeenshire
07/01/2017 10:16:04

Welcome Kevin and a good new year to you .Very helpful members on and welcoming . yes

I'm in Nairn

Sean

Anything Fortis please

Thread: counter shaft not running true
05/01/2017 07:54:42

Wow this thread has gone into way too much detail . All i wanted was some advice on fixing the lathe to the floor wink. I've decided on trapping 4mm rubber strips between the bottom of the pedestals and the concrete ,nip the bolts up enough to just hold the pedestals in place for now. Obviously truing up as best I can (I'm not buying a machinists level) . Today I'm going to make little adjustable feet with a through hole so i can use threaded rod for fine tuning . Once I get everything set up I have a bar I've been using for testing run out and I'll take it from there .

Thanks everyone for the input yes

Sean

04/01/2017 12:38:48
Posted by mark smith 20 on 04/01/2017 12:34:21:

Is 3 point fixing being discussed about the base to the floor or the lathe bed to the pedestal base?? What advantage does a 3 point fixing to the floor have??

That's what the lathe has ... 3 mounting points on the pedestal 2 at the head stock end and 1 at the tail stock . There are 4 mounting points on the actual lathe itself ,this is what I'll be making the adjustable feet for

Sean .

04/01/2017 11:31:03

Apologies ....the measurements is 1100 mm . Would i use anything between the lathe base and the concrete ..ie.. rubber strips ?

Sean

04/01/2017 10:52:01
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 04/01/2017 10:19:36:
Posted by sean logie on 04/01/2017 09:48:10:

. .The cast iron pedestals the lathe sits on only have 3 bolt holes ,2 in the head stock end (front and back) and one on the tail stock end . My first thoughts were to turn a set adjustable feet, but I'm not sure if it would work with just the 3 mounting points .I've read in a few places the reason for only the 3 mounting points is so the lathe can find it's own footing so to speak .

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/Fortis64/media/20161106_111752-800x450_zpsdhqdvhn4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

.

In theory [kinematics] a 3 point mounting should be ideal

... What's the approximate spacing of the bolt holes ?

MichaelG.

On the head stock end the mounting holes are 400mm front to back as I'm looking straight on at the lathe ,the tailstock end is in the extreme right hand side of the pedestal .The distance between the headstock mounting holes and tailstock holes is 110mm .

Sean

04/01/2017 10:13:46
Posted by mechman48 on 04/01/2017 10:01:45:

Take a look at Double boost video for taper turning adaptor...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKj9_nPcVgk

​#1... I laid a self levelling concrete pad for my lathe, sat the cabinets on 2 - 1/4" rubber mats, so far not had any major issues, having said that the supplied cabinets are very flimsy sheet metal design so I fastened them to the wall with large shelf brackets which improves rigidity much more.

George.

Thanks George ,one thing that can't be said about the pedestals i have is that they are not flimsy. The base (top of the pedestals are 3/4" thick and the sides are 1/2" cast iron .Johns adaptor is the same style as the one I made ,except i didn't have a mill to cut the slots . 

Photo of the fortis and the Pedestals 

These photobucket links don't seem to be working ,either that or I'm not linking them properly ?

 

Sean

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2017 10:18:40

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2017 10:22:07

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2017 10:23:57

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2017 10:31:43

04/01/2017 09:48:10

Good new year to everyone .

 

Have had plenty of time in the workshop lately and I'm admitting to myself wink I have three problems with the Fortis .

#1

I need to get the lathe sitting better on the concrete floor(any suggestions welcome ) .I'm toying with the idea of making a plinth for the lathe to sit on using self level cement or something the same .Possibly using rubber matting strips (4mm thick) between the bottom of the pedestals and the floor then bolting down firmly not super tight (again I'm open to any ideas ) . .The cast iron pedestals the lathe sits on only have 3 bolt holes ,2 in the head stock end (front and back) and one on the tail stock end . My first thoughts were to turn a set adjustable feet, but I'm not sure if it would work with just the 3 mounting points .I've read in a few places the reason for only the 3 mounting points is so the lathe can find it's own footing so to speak .

http://s1259.photobucket.com/user/Fortis64/media/20161106_111752-800x450_zpsdhqdvhn4.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Anyways that's my dilemma regarding the mounting/fixing of the lathe .

#2

The counter shaft/pulley is not running as true as i would like ,it's causing a slight vibration and because the lathe is not sitting perfect it's effecting the finish on the parts I'm turning ,more so on longer parts when using the tailstock .

#3

Tail stock is out of alignment ,I'll need to sort #1 & #2 before i can adjust it ?.

 

Other than that I've been having a great time messing about with the settings/speed feeds,big cuts ,very light cuts (dusting) ,using the 4 jaw more and more (great bit of kit ) really well made also . Anyone made an adaptor to use their cordless drill on the top slide for cutting tapers . I made one yesterday ,the improvement on finish is well worth the effort to make it smiley.

 

Sean

Edited By sean logie on 04/01/2017 10:08:25

Thread: ML3 myford lathe
01/01/2017 08:41:37

Here you go ,I had one of these not that long ago . Is your's complete ?

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/4654/6592.pdf

 
http://www.lathes.co.uk/myford-ml2-ml4/
 
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/myfordlathes/info
 
 
Sean
Thread: metric or imperial lead screw
28/12/2016 19:50:28

Found some photos hope they help put some light on the situation .

Sean

28/12/2016 19:36:34

The lead screw slide gear has a ball bearing with a small spring in the part you see protruding that allows you to set it in position . The the big gear up from that is the one mounted on the fixed banjo . I didn't have time to take photos of it ,I'll strip it down tomorrow taking photos as i go .

Sean

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