Here is a list of all the postings damian noble has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: Colchester student 2500/harrison m300 feed gearbox cams |
28/03/2019 05:52:40 |
Posted by Bazyle on 27/03/2019 22:54:41:
Are you on the Harrison Yahoo group? I analysed the gearbox a few years ago while considering making one for another lathe. I'm struggling to understand my spreadsheet but here goes. Edit - photo is from back so reverse my left right below. From the input side the selector blocks (the blocks in the photo) go in the order, wrt the dial numbers: therefore Edited By Bazyle on 27/03/2019 23:00:21 Hi Bazyle I will have to check against the above if I get what you mean. Yes I'm on the yahoo group but finding anything with the search function is hit and miss I find. Damian |
27/03/2019 21:02:25 |
Posted by FMES on 27/03/2019 20:48:31:
Ahh, the benefits of hindsight and photos.. Is this any good? **LINK**
Regards Agreed and lesson in not trusting 'permanent ' marker again. Scribed line across the delrin cams will be the way to go. Seen the link above but the photo's and videos on the gearbox don't show the cam as it's hid behind the selector forks and also they dont mention how they relate to each other. I have seen one video on you tube that states selection 1 has the first gear made. No further details. I'm looking at a last resort of a mail to the 600 group to get some detail. Edited By damian noble on 27/03/2019 21:03:20 |
27/03/2019 20:11:45 |
Hi all, Posting here for a bit of help as a search of the internet hasn't turned up what I'm looking for. When I got my Colchester student 2500(metric 6mm leadscrew) the gearbox was seized which is the same as the M300 problems. I stripped out the four cams carefully numbering them up after a clean with solvent to remove the old oil and residue. Unfortunately I didn't get back around to reassembling the gearbox until last weekend after a gap of 5 months the solvent which was left on the parts had dissolved my permanent marker and now I'm guessing which gear is supposed to make in each of the 8 positions on the rotary knob? Looking from the back with the lead and feedscrew to the left and cam 1 to cam 4 follower left to right. I have the 8 gears (again left to right) meshing in with the selector knob position as follows 1-2-7-8-3-4-5-6. Would like to confirm this is correct? The selection was vague and taken me some rotating about with the selector to make the gears line up in each of the detent positions. I have tried the harrison m300 Yahoo group but it is very quiet on there. Many thanks for the info and help in advance guys Damian
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Thread: Colchester Student 2500 (Harrison M300) |
07/06/2018 00:19:47 |
Cheers Jon. The imperial dial only has one change gear as far as I'm aware. |
06/06/2018 15:52:29 |
Posted by mgnbuk on 06/06/2018 08:56:44:
They are helical albeit very slight. Somewhat blurry picture of the M330TDI - pretty certain these are straight cut. The bottom (engaged) gear shows wear due to the thread helix angle. The M330 is close to the M300 - vari-speed headstock rather than step gears - the apron appears to be the same as the M300 at my last employment. The gears are 3.2mm thick. Nigel B Thanks all for the replies Great picture Nigel I have some 4mm brass sheet so will go with making some. At least the dividing head will get some use on the little mill. The originals will have been lost due to a careless previous user of the lathe. I'm in the process of a strip down and clean so the lathe is in bits. I did know it would be a long shot finding them on their own. There are some on ebay but they are odd numbered ones. Damian.
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06/06/2018 05:58:33 |
Thanks for the replies guys I've had a look on ebay and the only thing I can get is the whole m300 thread dial indicator but seems expensive for just four small gears. They are helical albeit very slight. I might try Colchester just for a laugh see how much they charge for each.I can get the part numbers from the manual. Cheers Damian |
05/06/2018 17:36:04 |
Hi all, Having recently acquired a modern type Colchester student (1997 vintage) I have noticed I'm missing the thread dial pick gears except the 16 tooth one that's mounted on it. The other gears are 14T, 18T, 20T, and 22T. Other than the 600 group (probably a fortune) does anyone have any or know where to get any? Cheers Damian |
Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018 |
05/02/2018 15:53:58 |
Looks nice that Neil. |
Thread: Medding MF4 drill pulley |
12/10/2017 23:45:57 |
My pacera (meddings) is just a push on fit held on with a double grub screw. |
Thread: Top slide stud too short? |
29/07/2017 06:06:01 |
Cheers Clive The nut (battered nyloc) that came with it had a plain washer underneath it so no such arrangement. Looks like when I get the lathe up and running I will have to make something up to suit. I'm a way off so it will probably be the end of August before it's all back together. |
28/07/2017 22:56:23 |
Posted by Clive Foster on 12/07/2017 14:31:12:
There are good, albeit somewhat arcane, engineering reasons why its correct to have the tool post bore rather larger than the stud diameter with a short, top hat style, bush to both span the difference and apply clamping pressure. Its also correct to have a large diameter annular relief in the centre of the tool post base rather than making it flat. Typically the diameter of said relief is around half the length of the block sides. Probably the most obvious example of why this arrangement is a good idea is to consider fitting the post to an elderly machine whose stud is no longer completely straight and slide top no longer perfectly flat. On smaller machines it doesn't take much more than occasional careless over-tightening to pull the top slide surface up a little where the stud threads in. Due to the relatively coarse threads involved such pulling will almost certainly shift the stud out of perpendicular too. Relatively small studs are easily bent a bit too. Clearly if the tool post is bored a close fit on the stud and its base made dead flat it becomes very hard to get a firm, rotation free, seating of the tool post. Resistance to rotation being very important with a QC system because not only do all the loads feed to the slide via the post but also the tool tip is considerably offset from the post centre line so has considerable leverage. With the oversize bore and adapter bush at the top small deviations from perpendicular or small bends in the stud will tend to be pulled out when the nut is tightened down. Obviously the securing force will not be quite as great or evenly distributed as it will with a perfectly perpendicular and perfectly straight stud but small deviations can be accommodated in an adequately satisfactory manner. Similarly a flat bottomed tool post on a distorted or damaged surface may only have proper contact over a relatively narrow annulus surrounding the stud. Not good for resisting rotation as the contact area will be small and the tool leverage large. With the relieved base not only is the contact area much larger, even if the actual width is no greater than before, but its a lot closer to the tool tip correspondingly reducing the leverage. Even if the actual mounting surface on the slide is a little uneven, so not all of the available surface on the base to the tool post is actually in proper contact, the actual holding area will almost certainly still be much greater than with the flat base contacting only around the stud. Many folk, myself included, consider a thin washer of stiff card or aluminium alloy underneath the tool post gives a useful improvement in grip and allows a lower torque to be used on the mounting nut. Need a new washer every couple of years but thats no great issue. On some of the smaller machines high torque on a QC tool post mounting stud can distort the slide enough to impede its operation. Not enough to lock things up but can certainly destroy the nice even feel so important for precise work. Clive. Edited By Clive Foster on 12/07/2017 14:32:33 I have just been wondering about the top hat bush during the rebuild of a boxford 11.30 lathe. I never noticed when I stripped it but now I have cleaned all the parts and started to re-assemble I've noticed this in the photo below? Should it really be that much of a sloppy fit? Damian |
Thread: Machinery enamel paint |
03/07/2017 17:00:54 |
Thanks for the suggestions guys. In the end I've gone for paragon again as it was easy enough to work with last time. The difference after the dreaded VAT and shipping was £18 so not enough to warrant changing. I'll see how I get on with it. Damian Edited By damian noble on 03/07/2017 17:02:32 |
Thread: A moan - steel of mysterious composition |
02/07/2017 09:34:35 |
Posted by Circlip on 01/07/2017 12:26:48:
But what constitutes "Non Special"? ALL should be to some sort of Spec. unless we're working to ROC mixes?
Regards Ian Agreed Any quality steel producer will sample the scap going into the mix and alter the mix to suit,also sampling during the melting process to refine the steel. I doubt this is the case with most mild steel that enters the country from china. All steel should have a data sheet which gives composition info
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Thread: Machinery enamel paint |
01/07/2017 10:42:56 |
Posted by not done it yet on 01/07/2017 07:18:18:
Im not a good painter, but price is not the only criterium (singular?) to consider. Coverage, longevity, non-fade, thinners, finish quality, colour shade choice are likely the main comparators, but there will be others - even delivery or minimum order might make a difference.
I'm sure you will be aware of these, but your starting post may only get subjective, not comparative, replies from non -experts. So what are your important parameters, other than price? Yes price wasn't really what I wanted to discuss but whether anyone had used their products and what they thought of them? I'm wanting the specific colour and enamel paint that will do the job. As I stated I've used Paragon/craftmaster and thought the enamel paint o.k. although a little soft. I'm no painter only an amateur at best. I've heard tractol mentioned a few times but as far as I'm aware they only have a set colour range. Still plenty of rubbing down to do but whilst summer is here ( loosely stated!) I want to get the bare metal painted. |
01/07/2017 06:09:12 |
Hi all, I'm just in the process of rennovating a boxford Industrial lathe and have been looking around for the correct paint colour ( fern green I think). I've used paragon paint in the past but they are expensive. I've had a quick search on the web and wondered if anyone has used these? Acron paint Seem good value Cheers Damian Edited By damian noble on 01/07/2017 06:10:00 |
Thread: An adhesive question |
28/05/2017 12:58:36 |
+1 for 528 adhesive. |
Thread: Did we go to the moon in 1969 |
27/05/2017 14:16:28 |
Already posted but The Lunar reconnaissance Orbiter shots on this page make it pretty convincing for me
Edited By damian noble on 27/05/2017 14:18:02 |
Thread: Boxford Industrial 11.30 lathe |
27/05/2017 09:50:10 |
Morning all, I have had two people say there is a tapped hole for an M16 eye bolt. I have one of these (correct one rated at 0.8T). Many thanks for the help Damian |
26/05/2017 22:38:06 |
That would be great thanks. It is essentially an x10 lathe and any manual is better than nothing. Cheers Mick |
26/05/2017 19:26:07 |
Hi all A little help required. Does anyone have a manual for one of these? Also is there an eye bolt in the bed for lifting it and what thread size is it? Thanks Damian |
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