Member postings for Dave Smith the 16th

Seat motor, its in the waffle above, so a slow speed and the original gear was plastic (nylon)? So an aluminium or brass one maybe stronger?

Something simple like this?

This is 8 degrees and should mount in the lathe easily. Could do with a method of moving it up and down though to get a full width cut, or is that not needed as long as the cutter is a larger diameter than the drive gear?

3D print the top with 20 holes to use to index the gear?

Can you see anything wrong with this setup? Anything even easier?

Lay it down and make it on the mill instead to get a full cut using the table travel?

So much to take in, the size is correct 29mm maybe a tiny fraction under but mostly its spot on 29mm for a 20 tooth gear. I used a gear creation tool on the thingiverse website and used the MOD 1.314? created with a 5 degree helix and opened in freecad. The gear measured 28.9mm so its close enough. 5% angle maybe a bit borderline though. Maybe 8 - 10%?

Does that equate to an imperial standard? I used a thread gauge and the MOD 4 seemed to fit the gear spacings. I had a quick look for gear pitch gauges and they are pricey.

The original gear is plastic (nylon)? So swapping it out to aluminium, could i use a straight tooth instead? Its a slow motor thats used infrequently in its application. (seat motor if thats of any use)?

Looking at all the methods and have lots of questions. When hobbing a gear does it space the teeth correctly when taking the initials cuts? Thinking out aloud.. The tool is approx 1mm further away from its final cutting position. Wont that try to cut an extra tooth or so?

I watched the Myfordboy video and he precut the teeth on a gear, for that reason?

Thanks.

Can anyone help with the gear size?

20 tooth and 29mm diameter, the lowest part of the tooth does not extend to the highest part of the next tooth, thats how little a helix it is.

Thanks.

Not heard of that one, will give them a look.

Looking for a local company for metal supplies, found a few online ones and they appear cheap until the postage is added which can bump it up considerably.

Sometimes they only sell 3m lengths, which bumps the postage up for just one item, but you can usually order a few items with the same postage.

A little bit of whoosh, something flew over my head there I can see if rotates but how? and i think its a bit too much for me as yet. (small angle required)

The angle is very small, virtually a spur gear, which im hoping will work but i am guessing that it will need that small angle cut into it.

The size/shape is unlikely to be an off the shelf item.

Just seen the price of gear pitch gauges, a big ouch. Is there an online reference to compare gears?

Hoping to just mount it on a shaft and offset by x degree and then take a cut, i was just curious as to whether i could make more than one gear at a time?

Thanks.

Yep, i managed to get there today and will be picking up the smaller X2, which should do me, its a useful toy. Although i should make something useful.

He did tempt me with a new machine coming in the 2.7, but as a toy it was a little more than i wanted to spend.

As a plaything i think i have chosen the right size, he went into great detail about what the pros and cons were and everything wrong will be all my fault

I wont sleep now until Tuesday... its nearly Xmas

Singing Tuesday is coming, Tuesday is coming

I have a lathe already and should be picking up ths SX2 mill on Tuesday.

I dont have the full dimensions yet, but i may need to make a few helical gears in aluminium or brass. If they were straight then no issue, just cut a length and chop out the required number, but what can be done with a slight helix on the gear?

Limited skills and tools as usual

Any simple methods to creating more than 1 gear easily? Or should i just get comfy and make them one at a time?

Thanks again. (i have so many questions)

I will be buying a few extra bits like the clamping blocks and i think the R8 - MT2/3 as they are approx £11 each? I wont have any issues then if i need to swap something to the lathe and back.

Those triangle shaped clamps with steps in them seem like a good idea. Not sure if the cheap clamping set comes with those or just spacers?

Something to make and have a play with it i guess.

Free stuff from B&Q? Nope never heard of that.

Seen some really cheap digital calipers on ebay but their resolution is only .1mm i may try the slightly better ones and see if i can make the clamps.

I should have enough equipment to do most basic stuff, i just need the push to actually start and finish a project.

I read where MDF or Ply was used, but over time wont oil seep into those?

I doubt i will use pumped coolant but did did think installing it inside a tray of some form seemed like a good idea.

Help with the cleanup at least, i must seal the edges of the base though. I didnt on the lathe and its amazing how everything i drop ends up under that tiny gap.

Sorting some space for it, how much sideways space do i need with the table at its extreme full left and right positions? Guessing approx 850mm? Anyone know how much space there is behind the table when its at its rear most position also?

Will i still use my little drillpress?  Or do i banish it to the shed? Little Clarke CP5DD.

Finally, its an R8 model, so worth getting a MT2 and a MT3 adapter?  Cover all my bases?

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 21/05/2016 19:05:01

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 21/05/2016 19:06:09

I have some box section but they may only be 12" long? approx 3" but 6 or 8mm wall.

How long do they need to be?

Probably a bit rusty but i can mill them flat now

I have a prolapsed disc so travelling that far may mean i wont be walking far.

I had a visit today and he tempted me with machines that were a bit over what i think i should spend on what is in effect just another toy for my toy box

Similar to buying the lathe its a toy that comes in useful sometimes.

I settled on the X2P and will be collecting it on Tuesday. I just need a victim volunteer to lift it onto the bench. Just thought of a question i didnt check/ask... Does it need to be raised on the bench? I have seen others lift them to give clearance for the handwheel.

Although he needs some overtime as it was past closing when i left. oops.

First task after positioning it is the slot  in the ball turner mentioned in another thread.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 21/05/2016 14:32:11

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 21/05/2016 14:50:47

My head hurts even more now

After reading and re-reading and then reading it again and again. It seems the 2 smaller machines they sell are too small.

So from ARC its the SX2P. No tilting but most appear to agree thats probably a good thing unless i specifically require it. (which i don't, just thought it was a good thing)

At £675 though its a bit pricy compared to the opposition.

WM12 and Champion 16V appear to be the same machine, Geared (metal on the WM12) 16V ?

90degree tilting. 250 / 280 / 330 travel? Depends in where you look. Specs need to be checked. Both MT2.

£650 for the WM12 and £599 for the 16V

SPG9512B 45 degree tilt. MT3 or R8 (belt driven + spindle lock) for £520.

One of those 4. 2 belt driven, 2 gear driven, If its a plastic gear its out. Not something i want to mess with. Metal = OK though.

Now to me they are all much of a muchness otherwise. Pick flies anyone?

Thanks

Are ARC at the show? I may pop over to the showroom tomorrow, but if they are short handed i can leave it until later in the week.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 20/05/2016 20:58:32

Keep a couple of sausages and recycle them each time?

Is low salt the key to clean up my casting? Its not as bad as one aussie? youtuber who had deep craters in his castings. Only the deeper he went the worse they seemed to get.

Eager to run away with the CC and accidently find myself on ARC's doorstep. Are they at the show this weekend? Better to wait until next week?

The more i look the more i like the WM12 machine though. Although the specs appear to be wrongly printed either on their website or in the adverts. 250mm travel or 350mm or something else?

So many choices..

Click Albums in the green bar at the top of this page.

Edit album then add more photo's.

Or click photo's under your username to the left.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 19/05/2016 21:00:52

No deals at the show?

Is a scribe mark all thats required? No additional marking to highlight it?

Any cheap sources for a rod? I do like a bargain and would prefer to buy something with a rod in it and strip the parts out. Maybe i just like taking things apart? Although i do "sometimes" put things back together

Excellent, Thanks.

Uploaded a couple of pictures myself (slug) and i think i have found a suitable toolholder, the bracket from a caravan stabiliser. 12.5mm thick.

Before

After

Toolholder?

Apologies if the picture are messed up. My first attempt at pictures on here.

How do you scribe the cross of mark the centre on an optical punch? Seems like a nice and easy project.

Thanks

Just had a closer look at yours and expected mine to have all those pock marks in the casting but after just a small skim to get it all fairly true, most of them have gone. How do you get a cleaner casting without those marks?

I do not remember using any flux or degassing so maybe there is the answer?

I have a small corner garden with 3 properties bordering it. May have to have a test on how much smoke/fumes it produces. Someone mentioned using PLA plastic to do a similar job, not seen much info on that though.

Is the slot angled to adjust the toolheight? What secures it into the slot? Any other pictures?

I dont think i have any scrap around that size, i wonder what else i may have?

Thanks.

I need to be careful with the melt / casting. I live in a very built up area in a terraced house with only a small back garden. I need to be sneaky and not annoy the neighbours. I think i need to make proper moulds. I have some playsand and a large bag of bentonite clay (powder). Anyone in the Birmingham area need any Bentonite clay in powder form?

I don't think they will like the smell/smoke from burning foam. My propane furnace is fairly quiet so no complaints yet, although i think it needs a fan to get the best from it.

Ball turner looks an ideal solution. I wonder what i can use to make the toolholder?

Ideas on mounting a tool holder without using a mill to cut a slot into it? And i do not fancy filing it