Member postings for Dave Smith the 16th

If they are like the scooter motors that i have then they will need to be geared down a lot. Mine are something like 2800rpm @ 24v. A wiper motor or electric window motor will be 12v and much slower where the gearing maybe close to your needs already.

To me its not the we are stealing your data, this is obvious and its huge money now. One of the companies that offer free games on facebook and android got caught out recently.

We collect no data and do not sell data etc etc. When questioned on how they make their money and why they need so much access to facebook users details they had to come clean they do collect data but its not identifiable to the user. They soon changed their access and no longer required a huge list of permissions.

They no longer need access to your address book and everyones phone numbers.

Even this forum links to google analytics and facebook and myhobbystore, these are in the background how many know this is happening?

The issue for me is the ever foreceful tactics to upgrade. As mentioned a nag box pops up and if ignored or closed it assumes that you agree and installs anyway. The issue is that some people leave their computers running so they will not even see the nag screen and be able to cancel it.

One guy updated his media centre computers and then found out that win 10 does not have a media centre. So the update was not really compatible with his system. No warning that windows 10 lacked a medai centre.

I have some old programs that wont run in windows 10, so happy to stick to windows 7 for now. Although a lot of them i run in a virtual machine anyway. Not tried windows 98 in a VMWare enviroment on a win 10 machine yet.

I had issues with an old program on a windows 8 machine, it just didnt run at all, no matter what i tried. Compatability mode or even a VM enviroment. It works on my Win 7 machine in a VM though.

Only seen the shapers on youtube, I think Tubalcain did one on the fast return stroke?

How would you shape a tool for this?

I 3D printed a small block to test the size and after a bit of filing it fitted but an odd problem popped up.

Moving the lever towards me moves the needle to the right, move the lever away and sometimes it moves to the left and sometimes to the right?

Move the lever very slightly to the rear and the needle moves left for 0.2mm or 0.3mm (it varies) then the needle jumps and starts moving to the right?

Broken spring or something overshooting? Its not that old but a cheapy one. Contacted the seller and hoping they will exchange it.

Probably need to look for a better one. Proper brand

I still need a better holder though, if they do replace it the holder is likely to be just as rubbish.

X$M brand.

If only it was that easy. What about the latest forced update that will install without asking?

I have had to roll back several computers for older people that didnt like windows 10 after auto updates installed it. Admittedly they had the choice back then and made a mistake. But the latest update will do it even if your not using the machine.

Imagine leaving your computer on whilst you popped to the shop them came back to find its installing windows 10. Because you didnt cancel the dialog box.

Its free because like most (all)? of the social media sites. They do it for free because they are gathering more data about you than you may realise.

Windows 10 will be spying on you and collecting your data and each new update will try and re-enable anything you disabled. Its a cat and mouse game currently.

Its expected they will extend the free deadline to sweep up any late comers. If your bored try Barnacules Nergasm on youtube, he actually worked for MS before they laid him off.

Thanks, I have seen some of his video's but not that one. Thats ideal for a small holder, what would you do with a larger piece though say 60mm or 100mm long? Filing that maybe an issue?

Didn't we have an edit post button somewhere? Typo in my title and a few elsewhere i wanted to change but its appears to be MIA.

I have a dial test indicator and whilst rotating the dial the dovetail holder snapped off. More a case of cheap junk than heavy handedness. The threads on the holders shaft had a very loose fit and it would tighten up and you turned the outer rim. Cheap metal and a tiny contact area left from where the dovetail cuts into it, sure fire fail point.

I thought i would make another holder, a larger aluminium bar would be better to start with, leaving some material left so it doesnt break again.

That got me thinking how do you cut a <5mm dovetail slot in steel? High spindle speed and slow travel? Would you slot it then cut one dovetail at a time? Or would cutting both offer better stability?

How would it differ between say a small sub 15mm piece of steel and then the same dovetail in a 100mm long piece?

Thanks.

Yeah concrete or my secret stash of tools the missus didnt know i ordered?

Muzzer, maybe i am overthinking it but i thought getting sealant or paint under the mill may upset it? At least the holes appear solid. On my lathe one is solid but the other is a slot, I drained the oil recently and spilt more than last time and it found its way down the bolt hole and into the tub beneath. Oily mess.

Anyone want to buy some oily sandpaper?

Back to the square tube, its years old and has a rusty coating. Needs cleaning and probably a pass through the mill to level them. Do i just give them a light spray of oil or paint them? You may have guess i like to do things right even though it may make zero difference or make it worse

I like to be different also, has anyone converted the belt drive to a plastic gear drive? (just kidding)

So yours is not bolted to the bench? I have some 3.5" heavy steel box sections, if i have any doubts i could always fill the section with something to add weight. Although the weight of the machine and the box sections should be more than enough for any task i plan on doing.

Probably need to make something to level and cleanup the box sections though.

I picked up the SX2P yesterday from ARC. Excellent customer service.

Its on the bench but not bolted down, i want a nice tray for it. I have a shallow one but it has lots of grooves and a deeper one thats a little too large.

Will checkout the compost trays on offer and see if they are what i need.

Those that have fitted a mill into a tray do you seal it to prevent coolant dripping through the bolt holes?

Thanks.

I think i get the dividing head now. (i think)

60 tooth gear, 1 turn on the worm = 6 degrees and it moves one tooth. 60 turns for a full circle.

I think this is right.. If the index plate had 6 holes then you could accurately turn the gear in 1 degree increments. If it had 60 you could get 0.1 accuracy?

Have you taught me something?

Meccano gears wont work because the gear needs a hub on both sides and that hub is shaped to fit into a housing.  The worm/screw is the same shaft as the motor so changing that it not an option either.

I think the straight cut gears may well be the way.  The original gear was plastic/nylon? so an aluminium one should be better (maybe?).

Thanks

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 24/05/2016 19:49:18

Getting the mill Tuesday ( today now, oops i need my bed )

Dividing heads etc are all on my wish list, but when your poor and have far too many hobbies some things have to wait. I blame the missus, she keeps taking the money for something called bills?

I have no idea who this bill is but he is expensive to keep

Yeah i have a 40, 60 and 80 teeth change gears to use, not sure on the 20? I cannot take the worm out without serious pain. Its pressed into a housing and may not fit back snugly without more work.

Now i know why people charge so much for these gears.

Next step is howto secure the gear onto the shaft? I presume the original plastic gear was fitted to a hot shaft or expanded/shrunk when fitting?

Add a grub screw or roll pin or tight fit and glue it on?

Turning into something bigger than i imagined.

Thanks for the help.

Excellent, Many Thanks.

I measured the worm with my thread gauges and its not quite a 4.0. I didnt try the metric or whitworth ones.

And my quest for help is here again, Myfordboy (youtube) mentioned info on the button sizes for making buttons to create a involute gear cutter. Is this info available online?

Thanks again.

Had a problem with the lathe, only 2 fixing bolts which are central to the lathes axis. After lots of trial and lots of error i finally managed to get it better than most people thought was satisfactory for a small machine.

Neglible runout over 8 or 10", i have the previous figures mentioned somewhere.

With my luck it will probably churn away the entire blank and leave no teeth until its too small for the task.

I need to make a tool to match the gear and then make a holder for it also. DIY flycutter? Or something else?

Myfordboy made an onvolute cutter using little button cutters. So many tasks to do before i can actually cut a gear.

I will have to make an indexer also. Any tried printing one with an inkjet? How accurate? I think i need to be more accurate than my nearest couple of mm

The above picture gave me a better and more compact idea, just need to index it and clamp it..

Thanks.

100% a worm.

I used Bearing King and they were SLOW!!! Took almost 2 weeks before i received my items.

Ordered late Monday probably too late to post, but received it not that Saturday but the one after.

Had stuff from China arrive faster than that.

Edited By Dave Smith the 16th on 23/05/2016 15:44:08

When bolting it down is it like a lathe and it needs careful adjustment? Or is it just a base and as long as its a flat surface then its OK?

If using blocks and ones 0.1 bigger will it affect the mills accuracy?

Thanks.

Jason its a right angled setup, the worm is 90 degrees to the gear. Similar to Andrews picture above.

There is a hub on both sides of the gear also, i didnt find anything suitable on the HPC site. did i miss it?

Free hobbing, shows where a lot of youtube videos are misleading. Quite a few are free hobbing with no initial cutting of the teeth.

Anyone see any issues with my little frame above for holding the gear? If using the lathe i thought use the toolholder height adjustment to get a full cut if needed.

Index the top disc for 20 teeth. Or use the mill and feed across for a full cut. From what i have seen so far though a cutter slightly bigger than the worm should give enough tooth clearance anyway?

Not ideal but it should work if a little time consuming? yes?

Thanks.