Member postings for not done it yet

Re your space - 600mm is not a lot. 800mm is not even enough for the SX2P mill highlighted above.

Having a table of 400mm, with 330mm travel, plus the long-travel handle it won’t fit in an 800mm envelope. Setting it on the diagonal (of ~1100mm) likely wouldn’t be very satisfactory.🙂 285mm spindle-to-table distance rapidly decreases - once a chuck, drill and vise is involved. I generally use stub drills on my smaller mill.

A great small mill but still small. I do a lot of drilling operations on my mills, but I have still occasionally required a drill with more head-space.

Definitely not. Far heavier items might be placed on a surface plate - but still bad practice to leave other items on it other than those i use. The hammer would be better stored elsewhere, but is unlikely to injure anyone (too much).

Perhaps the vendor was indicating that he/she had knocked down a few(?) divots on the vintage plate with a vintage hammer?

Sandwich boxes with no cable strain relief, unprotected terminals and used for mains operation outdoors - used/recommended by one youtuber (whose name I have gladly forgotten) - is one insanely stupid demonstration of ‘safe working practice’ that I remember.

Boring on the lathe, with a boring bar in the compound slide on a small (not very rigid) machine is never going to be straight-forward. Problems are further increased with increased depth of bore, not diameter. I would never countenance using the compound slide as a means of extending the boring bar.

Mounting the part on the carriage and using a boring bar (supported at the chuck and tailstock) can clearly reduce the number of flexing joints in the process. So far better for deeper (longer) bores, but a pain to set up, of course. I’ve never yet needed to make a boring bar of that form.

Boring on the mill allows shorter cutter extension, so is inherently better than on the lathe - the only real mounting problems being for awkward shaped items. Knee raising is, IMO, better than quill extension when boring (both my mills have knees, but a fair amount of head-space is needed, so I haven’t used the smaller one for boring).

On the lathe I first drill, then bore (if a larger size) - followed by a reamer, if I have one . So much less hassle for most holes.🙂 Much like Howard’s post above.

If you know the gear DP and tooth-count along with the centre to centre distance, the tooth count of the previous/subsequent gears are fairly easily calculated.

Edited By not done it yet on 21/08/2023 07:12:58

I didn’t realise that a myford 254 (or any other myford) was fitted with a VFD.🙂

If you’ve fixed it - great. But have you checked for ventilation of the gear box? They need some form of ventilation to avoid any pressure as they heat up.

Will 7m, or so, at that depth (about a mile, for imperialists🙂 ) cause any subsequent settlement at the surface? I might guess not, but thinner seams of coal have led to subsidence in some areas.

I know they haven’t taken any coal (about a million tonnes?) from beneath Bolsover Castle. Grandfather took the ‘easy seams’ and the one I went along was only around one metre thick but less than 400m underground.

They took as much coal as they could get and allowed the roof to collapse behind the coal face with mechanical extraction. I didn’t have to actually crawl along the face but a severe ‘stoop’ was necessary to negotiate the hydraulic props behind the cutter. Some in our party were on their hands and knees all the way along the face!

First, it would be good to know whether the capacitor is a ‘start’ or ‘run’ item. Like, is there a ‘centrifugal’ switch on the motor armature?

Those wishing to change motors is quite limited. Generally failed motors are exchanged for a direct replacement - the original was carefully chosen by the manufacturer.

It was only the minority that changed motors, from 3 phase, to single in years gone by (before cheap VFDs became available) because used commercial machines wee cheap - for that very reason.

Nowadays, it tends to be the other way round because the 3 phase motors were always superior - given a suitable power supply was available.

Then, along came cheap brushed DC motors - but the cheapness often led to failures (often not so cheap for the user) - and now brushless, but also cheap, DC motors. An improvement but not idiot-proof, all the same.

Changing from DC or single phase induction is always a matter of what modifications need to be made to accommodate the new drive. Every situation may be different. The induction motor is the usual choice but universal motors can be found - snd require a different means of speed control.

Bearings are, I think, more likely to be ball bearings on 3 phase motors ( more long-lived). Changing from DC to single phase my include other bearing arrangements.

Foot or flange mounted motors are often not (easily) interchangeable. Foot mounts come in various sizes/congiurations.of corse.

There are plenty of cheap, light-weight, chinese motors around these days. Price usually denotes som advantage/shortcomings.. There are different ranges of motors, even from one brand. Cheapest, less cheap, lower starting torque torque or the increased starting torque range. Braked or unbraked is yet another category.

Your choice, of course, but there is rather more to motor choices than initially meets the eye. You may even think ahead and decide to buy dual voltage 3 phase motors - yet another choice to consider.- before jumping in on the girst available option. As is the options of powering the machine to which the motor is to be fitted,. VFD or historic static (or rotary) converter, for instance.

Likely a few more, if those pics were taken from a ‘how to do it’ video.🙂

Darwin award applicants?

Or will be evidence at a future murder investigation?

I once came across an extension lead with a plug on both ends (and not for feeding a generator output back into the house wiring!). I corrected it - it was on a young hair-dresser’s portable hair dryer (hood type) which had been ‘wired’ by her Dad.

My comment; You use calipers, not a micrometer, to take precie, accurate measurements?

Somehow, I doubt you are fitting the correct fuse. The fuse is to protect the supply lead, nothing more.

I would be considering reaming the parts to 32.00mm. Might not, of course, depending on the situation ‘in the flesh’.

the bearing rings in the headstock have barely any lip showing to get a punch on.

”Barely” means there is some. Use a full diameter drift. Problem likely solved at a stroke!

Seems like you have the incorrect O-ring for this application?

My workshop has very little ventilation - i do open the door on occasions. The dehumidifiers sort out that issue - i generally collect little more than 2 litres per month at the most… i expect most of this is wicking in through the concrete floor.

400 views and no replies. I’m surprised of that. But it has been known for years that what was sold off was virtually given away and is really only there as a profit making enterprise (the Verny healthy dividends paid to the shareholders and top brass crud)

I liked that! They can be useful, sometimes - but I only use them if I am stuck and don’t want to wait for the item to be sent from China.🙂

I expect there are still a few. Likely termed as ‘cottage industry’ these days.🙂

Yep, as above (for most measurements). One Bar would equate to ~760mm of mercury, or approx 10m of water! Most manometers for low pressure differences are filled with oil of less than unity density (specific gravity) unless of a temporary nature.🙂