Member postings for not done it yet

Ever thought that maybe they threw together parts from different sources to avoid paying for the privilege of using something real in the production? Part this, part that, part something else, so unrecognisable?

I have my password ready for them. I would spell it phonetically. Golf Echo Tango Lima Oscar Sierra Tango. Not got that far recently as I am not wanting to waste my time. So I ask upfront if they want my bank details or even say 'here are my bank details'. They seem to hang up very quickly, althogh I don't know why - as that is what they really wanted in the first place!

Allowing the ansafone to trip in usually sorts out the scammers.

JB, Dunno what scale your pics are, but he is only starting with 18 x 18 mm.

Seems ti work for doubleboost, too (see his snnc151).

Unfortunately I don't subscribe to that. The register is cut on the lathe, so must be concentric for that lathe. A chuck that needs centralising is a chuck not worth buying, IMO. It should centralise on that spigot. DB also failed to make an undercut on the inside angle. A mistake unless the chuck is chamfered at that position such that perfect seating is achieved on the axial register surface.

 Edit: Oh, and the 4 jaw chuck in Kwils post will not have a scroll cover like the earlier self centering chuck, so those bolts will go through the chuck and back plate on touching surfaces?

Edited By not done it yet on 29/11/2016 12:47:11

I would say fix it now, before it actually quietly fails and costs a great deal more than thd cost of a cheap fan. Maybe not so fast as a cpu overheating in a computer, but the same effect - loss of the device which it should be keeping cool.

I would disagree with Paul re the gap. But it may depend on whether the chuck has a machined surface on which to bolt to. Some may have to put up with relying on transferring clamping force across an expanse of material, in which case it may reflect the quality of the product.

Once, a long time ago, we tightened a wheel on a car where the last bit of tightening distorted the brake drum to pull the wheel centre tight. That wheel soon worked loose.  But saw blade clamps are tightened in the centre but clamp at the outer edge, so maybe not always important

Edited By not done it yet on 29/11/2016 09:21:50

How about simple plunge cuts to remove bulk material. That way the part can be clamped on its pivot for each cut. Need multiple small increments to get the part to shape and finishing would need another approach, but safer than cutting anything that is not fixed down securely. I simply avoided climb milling (on most materials) with my old mill. No need for rotary table nor sophisticated dro.

Yes, yes, yes. Even Euclid would have used simultaneous equations, if the three points were truly random. Need two equations to solve with two unknowns. Not actually difficult, as a mathemetician, but just necessary.

'All' Euclid did was to give the unknowns arbitrary values and develop a formula from x, y, z, etc algabreically and prove it geometrically. The proof meaning that it worked for any measured values you might choose. He was a great mathemetician of his day, but whether he actually worked them all out himself, as the first to ever do that, is questionable. Some were doubtless simple (or complex) proofs of other's already practical knowledge. He actually documented all the proofs as a record at that time. He did get one or more wrong, mind?

This problem is made simple by knowing the number of points around the PCD. The answer can be documented to as many decimal places as you wish, but Euclid didn't work in decimals, did he? Halves, quarters eighths, etc would have been his units for values less than units still? But Euclid's Theorems did not require units to be proofs. Inserting values into theorems is still required to solve the problem, to arrive at a definitive answer for any set of data points - to however many significant figures you care to work to.

three randomly positioned points on a circle.

Yes, but simultaneous equations might be needed if one does not know the subtended angles? Only need two points if the subtended angle is known.

I have several metric/imperial dials called 'Vickers inch metric conversion units'. There may be something in the box that would suffice? If interested, message me and I will check through them for anything that measures up. Not perfect, but all serviceable - and they are cheap!

Search for 'taps' and choose any relevant thread?

Try Icko. They market the things, so they should be able to supply parts. I sublimate from below with my home made varrox type.

Alternatively, being as you already know what it is, why not try the beekeepingforumdotcodotuk? Hivemaker will know, I daresay.

The pictures will be good.

3/4" copper pipe was a little thicker than present day but of slightly different OD. There is plenty of second hand pipework still being replaced. I expect I have a few short lengths around, if they can be found.

This iz two number, one of each piece? There being multiple 'prawns' and it is not entirely clear if you need multiples, or one singular item of each.

Plenty of pictures on epay. One for a grand. Made in Yugoslavia.

Are you sure she is not 'sea sick'? Canals can be a bit rough at times

But agreed urea formaldehyde foams were a bit of a problem at times.

From the net on another forum:

The e-mail from Thor is below but I think I may just buy a new hammer!

To replace the faces on these hammers you really need time, tool room facilities, patience and determination.

To put things in perspective, these hammers were designed around 1930, when labour was cheap and changing faces was often an apprentices job in a large tool room where all the necessary facilities were available.

I have attached a scan of an old leaflet which tells how to replace the faces on the copper/rawhide hammer Size 2, but the principles are the same for all sizes.

The text from the leaflet is below:

"You ask the best method of removing and replacing faces. This is not easy but may I advise using as an example a No. 2 Copper Hammer (04-312) with face diameter of 1 ½".

During the manufacturing process faces are placed in the socket of the malleable iron casting which is oversize by approximately .025" to enable the face to sit firmly. With faces fitted the casting is then put under a 50 ton hydraulic press which swages the malleable iron around the faces, thus ensuring that they are securely fitted. In this operation the socket opening is closed in, and after swaging could be 1 ½", -×005" or -×007".

You may appreciate therefore that it is not easy to replace worn faces and I enclose a simple leaflet giving details of general fitting procedures. Whilst many customers do replace rawhide faces, copper can be particularly difficult for there are grooves in the copper socket into which the copper spreads.

The use of an opening and closing tool is ESSENTIAL to change the copper face and I can send you a drawing of the tool or make one for you. A different tool is needed for each size of hammer and for example the number 2 size is £45.00, although anyone with tool room facilities can easily make one themselves.

Our copper is 99% pure and, being soft, will after considerable use, mushroom over the hammer head and in this state often lasts almost indefinitely.

Many customers find it more economical to use the copper end to destruction and then replace the complete hammer. Some large users use an air/pneumatic chisel to force out the copper face but this can only be done before there is any head distortion.

The time taken to replace copper faces is generally not cost effective.

I hope this brief summary is of assistance."

If you do go the opening and closing tool route, there is a possibility that the casting will crack in the process and only the minimum opening up and closing in of the casting should be applied. This particularly applies to hammers made after about 1990 as we moved from traditional blackheart iron to spherical graphite, which is harder, due to the high environmental cost of annealing the blackheart.

Regards and Best of Luck

Derek Mathers

Thor Hammer Company Limited

Highlands Road

Shirley

Solihull

West Midlands B90 4NJ

ENGLAND

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Never done one, but I would cut (drill) the centre and reduce the pressure for extraction. Refit would be like corking a bottle - a tapered guide. Some lube may be required and a good soaking for a leather insert. Hot and cold in the right places for metals.  Od is there some form of thread in there?

Edited By not done it yet on 23/11/2016 21:13:26

I tried to post previously, but it seems to have disappeared, or maybe I thought to just let you get on with it. Should be no problem sorting out alignment as long as the pulley is not rough cast. Otherwise true up an outside face and edge using a stub mandrel before setting up for boring.

My more important comment was that a larger sized motor shaft usually denotes higher power transmission. You really need to consider if your machine can cope with the extra torque/power of this new motor, if it is rated higher than the original.

Might even require a larger section belt.

Do consider the fire hazard with some sprayed foam.

Best way to avoid problems when climb milling on a small mill is to avoid it! Only use it for the finest of finishing cuts, if really necessary.