Member postings for not done it yet

I'm not seeing any problem if the flange was part of the whole casting. It will knock or press out from the other side after dismantling whatever is on the shaft (on the other side) or shaft removal.

Looks like the shaft was secured after some form of adjustment on the worm side?

Or is there no clearance to remove the shaft from the other side and won't push out? If so just start drilling or other machining to remove it in small bits!

Edit to add: slide hammer on the shaft, maybe?

Edited By not done it yet on 08/12/2016 07:15:55

We don't have shutters on our power outlets here in Oz and most days I don't read many reports in the newspaper of people being electrocuted.

Are yours 230V? Ours in the UK are. 120V on the north american continent are somewhat less likely to supply a fatal shock.

I like your very careful use of words. "Most days" could be 4 days per week and "many" only refers to the other

three? Reading it properly could be "there are only a few fatalities reported in the papers on most days but more on some"!!

If elctrocution is so common, it would not be newsworthy to report individual cases, only to highlight the dangers. Go back a hundred years and electrocutions were commonplace due to the intrinsic lack of safety measures and novelty of the systems.

Not checked the several extension cables I have, but I have never ever accidentally plugged in inappropriately. Perhaps common sense is not completely dead? Nothing stops the 'Darwin awards group' from opening the shutters on any UK socket if they try hard enough, so the safeguards are only really for protecting young children, I might suggest.

After seeing the OP 'answer' his own thread so quickly, I am wondering which forum the thread was on previously, even though no reference was supplied.

Far better to call by phone, if a spurious payment problem arises on a piece of complicated software stuff, rather than dive for the internet forum approach above. I would expect it to be a simple problem at your end or that of Arc. If at Arc's end, I am sure they would rather find out from you privately rather than have it splashed over the forum. And likely more probable it is a fault at your end, or others would be suffering the same symptoms and would have phoned Ketan.

I told him to **** off...

Sorry, but not enough information without atleast one letter to determine if it was urin- or copul- ... ate

Same message either way, and probably something that most would understand - even those from faraway fields....

Probably some with fibres or s/s needles incorporated in the mix to do away with a single reinforcement mesh in garage bases, etc. Mine went in over 20 years ago and is still in one piece.

But so is the first slab, laid in 1978. No reinforcement and prolly only a 25 Newton mix.

Clive,

Have a look at:

www.frets.com

There is a method there for getting very close for realigning the tailstock on centre line. In fact a very useful site with ideas for many of us.

From £178.80 + VAT for starter kit ?

Nah! Buy 2 and get one free! Honest it says so on the website!

Get together with a couple of mates, mind, because otherwise there might be a lot of some pieces left over!

Neil,

Are you completely sure you did not infringe his human rights, by suspending his account?

After all, his account may have been violated by several third, fourth fifth, etc parties!

A friend of mine was recently stranded in some foreign hospital after a road accident somewhere. Of course, I would have immediately sent him some funds (had he not been at home when I phoned to tell him of the scam).

Since then I've had yet

another email 'request' from him to join his "linkedin" account. What a good idea!!

Responding, by clicking anything on that email could result in my 'puter being compromised - possibly ending up soliciting ME members (and others?) for fast loans, supply of illegal drugs, etc - or maybe getting all my files encrypted by the scum (I would dump the thing if that happened as it is already past its sell by date).

On second thoughts, you may have been right? Especially if only Joined yesterday!

Edited to apologise for the apparent lack of punctuation, etc - that is the best my 'puter will do.  I am quite literate (my wife often says 'too literate' most of the time!).  Scum, not scam, was intentional.

Edited By not done it yet on 05/12/2016 13:25:14

Nevermind the simple, most used option of using "G-oo-gle", a search for vfd in the search box for the forum immediately gives a pretty good indication/description a very short time after clicking on the "GO" tab! If someone goes looking for every possible meaning amongst dozens of acronym meanings should learn the KISS principle!

Adjustment for tapered roller bearings is usually to give zero end float plus a small amount of preload.  

That preload may depend on the construction materials (coefficients of linear expansion) and the operational temperature, to avoid any end float during normal operation.

If end float is the cause of the run out, it should be noticeable by deflection by side or vertical thrust on the shaft while measuring.

Horizontal cutters may have a slight run-out during operation, but this usually only means a slightly larger cut on some cutter teeth - to which you may become accustomed. - and is not generally over important in operation.

I'll now go and look at lathes dot co. These old horizontal machines are often overlooked (by vertical options) but have plenty of life in them (from a Centec owner), and are often of better quality than modern chinese 'equivalents'.

Edited By not done it yet on 04/12/2016 21:12:29

I just simply entered 'vfd' into 'goggle' and guess what? Yep, it recognised it and all the first umpteen hits were in context or close to. I can understand that some acronyms need further explanation, but this one is very well used. The only thing I initially wondered about, was whether the poster was referring to a specific machine without maker's name included.

In my experience, that 3mm polystyrene layer you mentioned is intended to reduce heat loss,

That is precisely what all insulation is designed to do. Insulation, per se, will never heat anything; it will only reduce the rate of heat transfer from warmer to cooler side.

That advert is a little lacking in detail. It appears that it will transfer 12W per square metre per K. While that may well aid the room warming up (air to warm and not the cold substrate of the walls), that 65% could well be derived from covering internal walls, not just the more important external ones. Not decrying insulation, as any is better than nothing, but 3mm is only going to help a little. Remember warming still requires heat input - and the insulation only helps to slow the loss of the heating energy supplied.

Set it on your bed and turn the lead screw one or more turns, noting the deflection. As long as you know your lead screw thread, or are able to measure same, you can easily work it out for yourself.

Cooling can be compromised at low speed settings, unless the motor has separate cooling arrangements.

It would be common sense to change gear, rather than drop too low on motor speed, if long continuous heavy cutting at low speed is required.

Seriously overspeeding the motor can accelerate wear or lead to premature failure.

Some motors are more susceptible than others. Maybe think Chinese, as more prone to these possibilities (those built down to a price with 'looser' windings and lesser quality bearings).

This obviously qualifies machine for headstock reallignement.

What rules out simple chuck misallignment?

The quality of the holder is clearly apparent. If the die is of similar ilk, the user will not get value for money - however little it may have cost. Unless use once and throw away.

Think here. It is likely stuff, contaminants, crud, dust, grease, etc that has got into the plunger area. I suggest cleaning that out before dunking the whole lot in anything.

If you don't overload the machine there is no problem.

The machine may well only be overloaded when done accidentally and the result may be far more damage than if the maximum power motor is affixed. Thinking here, that of stripping gears rather than stalling the drive. Torque is the real enemy, I would suggest, particularly if not a soft start motor.

As 1/2HP is quoted as a "maximum", clearly some lower powered motors are far more acceptable than exceeding the maximum advised, which you do at your risk. I suggest you try to understand/find out why that maximum power was advised

Carbs? Look deserving of multi point fuel injection, to me

If they don't make anything suitable, I reckon you could build your own!

Keep up the excellent work. I am just one of those eagerly awaiting further progress on this amazing project!!

I just looked at his vid. I note the correctly sized arbor to remove any radial displacement. I note his glue is at the periphery, where it will set and there is a finite glue thickness. I also note that all cuts were made such that the item could not fly off and go into orbit without breaking the arbor. That is except the final chamfer on the back side of the flywheel outer edge.

Seems safe enough. Light cuts with a sharp tool and keep out of the line of fire, should anything go wrong (it can happen). An appropriate anaerobic loctite, and leave for long enough to cure, might be another/better alternative to pound shop glue.

If you are still overly hysterical, then use a longer arbor and thread it for a holding nut? Drill through (where one or more of the final holes were going to be positioned) into the holding mandrel, thread and screw in some brass threaded rod. Lots of ways to go OTT on the safety aspect, if you are that worried, I am sure!