Member postings for not done it yet

Preloved? Specific fora? Auction houses (non-electronic)?

Edited By not done it yet on 11/10/2017 12:40:26

So not really calipers but a general type of repair. I have a caliper, a micrometer, a couple of cheap LED lamps and a clock currently operating with aluminium foil as contact/padding material. I've likely forgotten older devices needing contact improvement. Some, particularly AAA, rechargeable cells either need plastic coatings trimmed back or some alteration for good cell/battery contact.

I doubt it makes much difference. Ease of turning the table at a constant rate would likely be more imortant.

Yes, sorry if I stated the obvious. I have noted that you don't accept ideas easily when alternatives are suggested. 'Warpage' comes to mine vey recently.

I consider all the alternatives available to me before posting Some don't. Most of my stuff is second hand and I have a large range of odd bolts and screws, but not taps in all sizes. I would be checking my other dial tips (yes, i have several old ones picked up over decades), or other small screws, to determine the thread. There are not that many in that size range. Speedy builder5 likely wrankled as well, but never mind, I will just chuckle next time I read your posts.

You only have just the one? I don't know another turner/miller who only has one! They are likely imperial or metric, but nearly all the same within those two groups.

Send him a PM? More likely to get a reply if he has set up for email notification of PMs.

Build a forge, employ a large swage bock and then harden and re-temper? Or take it to the local smithy and get him/her to do it!

Beware of cheap socket extension bars - I have twisted them, before now, with just a 1/2" drive torque wrench.

Edited By not done it yet on 08/10/2017 15:09:42

Every time you ask for something in imperial sizes, Ketan cringes!

Gelatin filters were good enough in the old days. Depends on how monochromatic you need the light to be.

Or buy a prism and make your own spectrum.

Edited By not done it yet on 08/10/2017 14:51:34

My noise is not so good for your idea on this item.

In my opinion it's a rotary table taking up more space. Value for money depends on quality. Unless you need the extra horizontal-vertical angle adjustment, I don't see much advantage. I doubt this example is of exceptional quality or durability and I would prefer to spend more money on a used dividing head with decent provenance. None of them eat anything, but good ones will not depreciate.

My Vertex rotary table currently has a 4 jaw self centering chuck fitted. It will be changed for a 4 jaw independent at some time. I need to cut gears near the centre (tailstock) to keep decent concentricity (OK, turning between centres with a drive lug fixed to the table might be better).

Turning a handle at 90:1 is not that much of a hardship unless using it a lot, or for income, is my view. Your choice, as always, but there are my thoughts...

Save the bother of getting them out.

They will likely bend much easier after you knock out the temper! So maybe not a long term solution?

Welding would introduce warpage ... The very last thing I want to happen .

Bolt it, glue it, or anything. But what are you making it for? Ahh a horizontal milling machine - just the type of machine to mill surfaces flat!

I'm not making it, obviously. Your choice. I just thought that solid steel might be a bit

over-engineered, and fabrication would give you far more for your outlay. And less likely to give you a hernia. But your choice.

Hi John,

The tumblers on my LJ are 14DP in steel or cast iron (CI I expect).

I am currently making some for another LJ in acetal and aluminium. Plastic gears are meant to break before the other gears, I suppose. I think the lead screw is protected with a brass shear pin, but the power feed shaft likely needs a weak drive link fitting somewhere in the gear train.

It is worth setting up for gear cutting as a couple of replacement gears would likely pay for an involute cutter and arbor. Easier if you have a rotary table. I have a set of DP16 and a couple DP12 cutters but am now looking for a set of DP14 cutters, now I have a 5"

It might be worth asking on the yahoo and freeforums raglan machines fora?

Correct.

Hello Andrew,

I am nearly in Rutland,

Where are you?

Just to add that there were 6 allen headed cap screws holding the base to the column on mine. one was so tight that I broke the head off while trying to loosen it. There were only 4 fixings on the 2A.

I most certainly dismantled mine to the bare column, base, table, knee, knee gearbox - without having to touch the horizontal drive (mine is a morse 2 taper). I think I just needed to remove the Gib?

In younger days I may well have lifted the column and base together, but not now. The table (with lead screw and power feed weighs around 35kg. Mine is not a univesal machine, so the table does not rotate.

Please send me a pic. I might make an offer to buy it.

I'll bet that many 6" bench grinders on these forums just sit straight on the bench, not bolted down?

I bolt on a peice of wood, with batten attached, so it can be secured in the jaws of the vise or workmate. Has worked for me this last 40 years or so.

A good job.

The plans for the acute sharpening system by Eccentric Engineering look as though they would be ideal to make a super platform for any bench grinder. It is on my list when I round to it....

If it is the big stand, the coolant tank is part of the structure and is made of rather thicker material than the sides. It will just go through a standard door (the stand on its side). The drip tray is not removable - at least not without resorting to the likes of an angle grinder or hot spanner.

Mine is outside awaiting splitting horizontally in order to get it into place, in my tiny workshop. I used a tractor front end loader or a teleporter to lift the column and base from the stand to the trailer bed and then manhandled them from the trailer by myself, so it can be done. Reducing gravity effects, by use of an inclined plane, was the key!

Good quality imperial allen keys are a must, but other fixings may be in use after all these years.