Member postings for not done it yet

If you are cash strapped and the duty is light and slow, a number 4 is only three tooth counts from the optimum of a number 5 cutter. A bit of a gap to a 50 tooth gear, but that same No.4 cutter might make a satisfactory 50 tooth gear in delrin, which might soon ‘wear in’, possibly with a bit of care. Might also depend on what each gear is on either side of the replacements.

Involute cutters are used over a certain range, so are a close enough approximation for the outliers of the range and only perfect for the median tooth size (if even that!). Ideally, a cutter for every tooth count would be best, but 8 cutters from rack to 12(?) is a compromise already. Andrew would be in a better position than me to tell you if it would work.

Water is one thing - it lubricates lignum vitae bearings - but grinding paste is another, so I would not consider it.

A single sealed bearing in the wheel is the obvious choice. No need for pin renewal if the shaft is a press fit (or at least non-moving) in the housings, so just another relatively cheap bearing change when the seals finally expire. A suitable grade of loctite could secure the bearing to pin and bearing in the wheel housing, so it is reasonably easily extracted for a bearing change.

Press out pin, replace bearing and pin. Job done. Cost will likely be far less than continued downtime for repair and a spare bearing can be held on stock. I would suggest a screwed pin with a close fit at the head end would retain the pin sufficiently rigid to avoid any abrasive wear to it

This is why they want a cashless economy. More control and the banks charge you more for their services.

The 90 degrees is not a requirement - the only thing is it needs to be symetrical. For anything square that you might want to drill in it (if a 90 degree V) you should have some relief at the bottom of the groove, so you might just as well add it at the start.

There are other ways of fabricating the part. Depends on the size of it, really.

Oops! It wasn’t Drummond - it was Ian S C’s thread re the Boxford A.

Yes, but.....

Volumetric expansion is the linear vaue to the power of three, so far more significant than linear expasion. (Double one dimension and volume doubles, but double all three dimensions and the volume increases by a factor of eight).

Remember, too, that the tank could be expanding with temperature rise as well. Dips, I woud think, were more important as a backup before electronic metering was fully deveoped. Should only be needed to avoid over-filling storage tanks these days (or running empty, of course).

Yes, but.....

Volumetric expansion is the linear vaue to the power of three, so far more significant than linear expasion. (Double one dimension and volume doubles, but double all three dimensions and the volume increases by a factor of eight).

Remember, too, that the tank could be expanding with temperature rise as well. Dips, I woud think, were more important as a backup before electronic metering was fully deveoped. Should only be needed to avoid over-filling storage tanks these days (or running empty, of course).

You can, but travel is much limited that way.

Most machines that have power feed only to one axis have it on the long travel.

Anything except putting in back gear! Loads of ideas on the ongoing Drummond thread on chuck removal. Just need a much longer lever and bigger persuader!

Lathesdotco mentions, in para 2, a 2 1/2” 4tpi threaded spindle. So it likely unscrews?

Edited to add that pics of the 13” lathe clearly show a threaded spindle.

Edited By not done it yet on 02/06/2018 19:01:12

Guessing, it is because he is impatient or has a rapidly approaching deadline.

I often fit a milling cutter in a drill chuck. Drills or enlarges holes much more accurately than a twist drill.

There is usually an exception to most rules.

I’ve broken cutters in more ways than one. One of them was climb milling.

To avoid breaking your cutter, might a slitting saw be an alternative?

Right, don’t climb mill, increase speed by about four times and feed quickly with WD40 as lube. I don’t climb mill ever, unless in error, and my power feed is always flat out with aluminium.

Not got a myford mill (unless myford claimed that the last of the Raglans were myford!)

Surface cutting speed is far too low. Were you climb milling? Too heavy hand-fed? Cutter damaged/blunt? Any lubricant/cooling?

Difference in lube could be down to the oilers - swap them over to see if it is one side or one oiler?

But the other possibility of extra clearance on one side is the likely culprit. I would be checking more carefully if the problem stayed with the side on swapping the oilers.

Less than a hundred quid for a cheap chinese VFD. Better ones are available.

Motors are generally rated by starts per unit time (usually per hour) but that may be modified dependent on whether starting off-load or under a load. Soft starts ameliorate this problem somewhat.

A 3 ph. motor is always preferable to a single phase for size/power ratio, quietness and smoothness in operation.

Electronic inverters are quite reasonably efficient and do not consume more than a couple of Watts, or so, when idle.

Firstly - are you sure the motor is good? Is it 230 or 415 volts? If 415, can it be simply wired for delta configuration or can the star point be easily split?

I would not expect chatter, like possible when parting off. After all it is not like cutting on centre height (and a reducing diameter) with a parting tool, when using a slitting saw with a large diameter.

All belts have an efficiency during power transmission. I don’t know whether multi-link belts have a greater or lesser efficieny rating than V-belts. Of course, if one has a marginal surplus of motor power, every Watt can be important.

Raph’s motor appears to the wrong side of the energy equation as it seems to only flake out on longer running, under higher power. I fit linked-belts only when belt changing would otherwise entail a lot of extra work.

All my vises are singles and nothing matches. If I were starting again with a bit more hindsight, that is what I would do.

Likely buy two vise and match them (if of chinese origin). Otherwise probably pricey, but the better all-round solution.

Selected precision vises such as available from ARC (among others, I suppose) might be a good way to go...