Member postings for Ian Skeldon 2

Thanks Nick, I will have to think it through, it's a lovely lathe to use but I am not sure I want to spend a lot on it so I will have to think it through.

Thanks Nick,

Ian

Hi and thanks for all the help so far.

It would appear that to change the stud belt for a v belt I do indeed need to remove the spindle and possibly the back gear shaft, so as it appears to be cutting very nicely and accurately I will leave the belt..... for now.

Whilst re-assembling the lathe I have discovered that the previous owner used grease in all of the oiling points with nipples, thankfully everything seems to be working as it should . I have always believed that an oil should be used for lubrication on a lathe, should I use grease on this lathe or clean out the grease and oil/?

Finally I stripped the wiring cover, fan shroud etc on the motor, which is as follows;

Gryphon 0.5 HP with a cont rating of 1420 RPM and 3.4 Amps.

Could this be the original motor? Is teh very large capacitor to provide some sort of soft start? Should the motor bearings have grease in the extended oil points or oil ( I would have thought oil but I could be wrong).

Once again thanks for any advice.

Ooops forgot to say that the motor is not mounted underneath the lathe but alongside the headstock.

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 12/10/2019 21:41:39

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 12/10/2019 21:43:54

Hi,

Thanks for your help gents,

Nick, my lathe does have the facility to adjust the tension of the belt and it is working ok, I just kind of have a thing about metal rivet type things spinning around the pully's but if changing it for a v-belt type proves too much bother then I will look at using a power twist belt, thanks for the link.

David, yes they are both out but thank you pointing that out. I was thinking that maybe these were some sort of shrink fit, I will have another look and post back my progress or lack of it !

William, mine has the lever at the bottom of the bed under the head that slides the motor and transfer shaft in to change the speeds and adjust the tension, there is lateral movement available using slotted holes just as you say.

Once again, many thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Ian

Hi,

I have just taken ownership of an additional lathe, a Boxford 'C' type. It came with several chucks and lots of change wheels and some other tooling and runs quite nicely, I haven't set it up completely yet as I want to clean and adjust as required but there is one thing that has me beat. It currently has what I think is described as ' T link belt' which uses metal pins as the link. I am not very happy with this type of belt and would look to replace it but....... I can seem to get the motion shaft or transfer shaft out. Has anyone here performed such a task, I have removed grub screws from pullys etc but nothing seems to want to move and I don't want to get brutal with it.

Thanks,

Ian

Good work there mate.

What I do know is that if you are unfortunate enough to be the cause of an accident (using your phone, driving whilst under the influence etc), some of the bigger haulage companies who have lost large sums of money as a result, are buying the accident information and then claiming via the individuals insurance company, the problem comes when the driver is breaking the law and therefore not conforming to the terms and conditions of the insurance contract, so technically not insured, it ends up with a law suite against the driver and can be very, very expensive.

Ahh thank you Ian and Bill.

Err what is shillin ?

Just to put the record a little bit straighter, the doctor or other clinical staff do not have to inform DVLA about anything. On finding a medical condition which might impair that persons ability to drive, they SHOULD inform the patient that if they drive a vehicle, they should contact the dvla and tell the dvla exactly what medical conditions they have been diagnosed with, the dvla will then take ownership of the situation.

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 18/09/2019 17:47:34

Ahh Thank you for that, I have now stopped ebay from taking money from my paypal account automatically but I have not managed to stop paypal from automatically taking money from my bank.

Does anyone know how if I can add money to my paypal account so that it is there when needed, but stop paypal from taking money from my bank account?

In short, I can send money to paypal but they can not take it from anywhere.

Thanks,Ian

Not cheap but This would solve your problem Duncan.

You got a hand book with your DB10, wow they've raised their game.

If you let us know what thread you are trying to cut it will help in deciding what gears you need to use, below is a picture of the gear settings on my DB10.

Hi Graham,

I'm sorry but i'm not sure how you would go about buying one of the cnc mills as used by Jason, I use a manual mill and have no experience of using a cnc mill myself. Having seen what Jason can do on this mill is impressive, in my hands it would just be gathering dust. I believe that Neil (forum admin) also has the same machine, but I have not seen any video of it in action. Might be worth contacting ARC as I believe they were the suppliers of said machine.

I think we need to start a new thread if we wish to continue talking about air rifles as we have strayed off topic somewhat.

Hi Graham,

It's funny how many of us on this forum shoot air rifles and also modify them and make parts for them etc. I have not made a reg yet but have made a reg tester and tool for polishing the nylon/synthetic face accurately. Modified my EV2 and am over the moon with it now.

If you want to manufacture even on a small scale then I think a cnc mill the same as the one used by Jason, on here would possibly be a good consideration. Look at page 5 of the thread named Sieg KX3 & KX1.

If you can manage without cnc and want a Bridgport knowing it has been serviced properly, have a look at this LINK

Good luck.

Fantastic to watch Jason, thanks for sharing. If I had the knowledge to back it up then a cnc mill would certainly be on the cards, am I right in thinking it makes the rotary table almost obsolete?

I am extremely sad to hear of your decision Andrew, you have been one of the very helpful people that I referred to in the very same thread, your knowledge and willingness to help will be greatly missed by those genuine forum members, hopefully your absence will be short lived. So until your return I wish you well and hope the building of those traction engines continues so that you might share a video of them running.

Best regards,

Ian

I have encountered the odd unhelpful response on this forum but I have received far more genuine replies and offers of help from quite a few members on this forum. Long may the helpful and friendly members continue to out post the not so helpful.

So Jason, if I understand correctly, the work piece is fastened onto the saddle with a special clamp arrangement, and travels along the bed with your home made tool mounted in the chuck and supported by the tail stock centre. Bore size increased by adjusting the tool. That's very clever, I would never have thought of doing that myself, thanks for sharing.

I would be inclined to try and get it working better before buying anything else. You could buy something bigger and dearer only to find that it too has problems, the experience in fixing it or at least improving the problem will be a skill you have acquired to take with you when you buy other machinery. I have had to make several modifications and adjustments to my Chester DB10 to get it to turn truly parallel and give a good finish. Even now I am thinking of buying or making a better tool post mounting arrangement as this is now the weakest link in it. Once that's done I will look at upgrading the motor.

Good luck.