Member postings for Ian Skeldon 2

Sadly I do work in the medical proffesion, here is what I know about AMD.

It can effect men and women equally, it can start as early as in your fifties but may go un-noticed. Smokers are affected much worse than none smokers and taking suppliments while still smoking is almost a waste of time.

Diabetics, please try really hard to control your blood sugar levels, avoid highs and lows. A slightly high norm is better than fluctuating levels.

Anyone with hypertension, start to gradually take exercise and try to naturally lower your pressure.

Lutein and zeaxanthin along with a few other extracts are usually used in the food suppliments reccomended. Macushield Gold is indeed something that is reccomended, it has been withdrawn from the NHS list of prescribed medications as they (the NHS accountants) claim there is no real evidence that it works. I am a mere sixty and take one tablet every day at my own expense, I really wouldn't bother if I thought it was not worth it.

There are at least three types of medication injected into the eye, Lucentis (ranibizumab) and Eylea (aflibercept) being teh most common ones used, Azorp or similar is sometimes used.

Wet can be treated, dry is usually monitored and cannot be treated.

If I were to pass on advice it would be as follows,

1. Anyone who does smoke, STOP ! it's no longer a hunch that smoking is bad for you, we very rarely treat old aged smokers cos they die before they get old, it really does cause a lot of damage to your body.

2. Take suppliments containing Lutein and Zeaxanthin (20mg a day is best, but 10mg a day is better than nothing).

3. Wear sun glasses especially if you have pale blue or grey eyes.

Companies are working on improving treatment for AMD all the time but prevention is really better than cure as we can't actually cure it, only try to stop it getting any worse.

Surgery closed now !

Edited By Ian Skeldon 2 on 11/07/2018 16:53:09

Very nice Bob.

I was even more surprised to see him brush swarf away with his bare hands, is this man a god?

Nice clamps though, although his machining skils and tooling means that he probably made them, just because he could, I'm somewhat envious.

I can honestly say that whenever I have asked for help or advice, I have received it without critisism of my many English language mistakes, and I am most grateful.

Long may the spirit of engineering camaraderie continue.

I have used the email link on this website several times and then confirmed with the intended recipient, that they have not received the initial communication. So maybe it isn't always the deliberate lack of response but a genuine lack of the need to respond?

Does anjyone here on the 'Speaking English thread' know where thare are any useful engineering forums?

Sorry but I couldn't (could not) resist. I have occassional difficulty with correct spelling of words, it's like a random failing that isn't easily explained, but even I hate the use of the word 'OF' when it should be 'have' as in, I could of used that.

Like it a lot, including the music

Hi James,

I am assuming that you have at least 3 or 4 inches of test bar inside the chuck/spindle and not just supporting it with a small amount of metal in the chuck? If so you should be fine to just take a couple light cuts without the tailstock, then mic it up to check for parallel.

If you can not hold enough material because of spindle internal diameter restrictions then use a smaller diameter. You don't need to use the tailstock until you want to align the tailstock. There is no point in aligning the tailstock until you are happy that your lathe is turning true.

After lots of hmming and arrring and checking youtube reviews I checked out the Factory 3d printer, Wanhao I3, Teva Tornado and a couple of Creality printers.

In the end I went for the Creality Ender (latest model).

Deciding factors being 24 volt heated bed, printable volume, ease of assembly, support available from tinterweb peeps, oh yeah and the price £200.

Hopefully it should arrive on Tuesday (as promised by the supplier)

Does anyone here use this make/model of printer?

Thanks to everyone for all the help and advice so far.

Hi, yes I confirmed the error by tramming along the top of the aluminium bar and again with the 16mm test bar, deffinetly the error is with the compound slide which I have shimmed for now.

Hopper your right, but if the lathe had a means of adjustment I could at least try to improve or maintain accuracy without resorting to stripping the head and messing about. I guess doing my apprenticeship at Rolls-Royce has something to do with it.

Your quite right, diameter was 22mm. I was trying to set the top slide to with a DTI see how accurate the zero was, and then test with a known taper. As I couldn't achieve a zero and get the clock to run over the test length without error (no run out) with the dti and not even get close I knew something was wrong.

Closer inspection showed that after setting clock to zero at tailstock end and ensuring it was mid line/point of the diameter, it would start to back off as I moved towards the chuck. Any adjustments resulted in the same thing making it impossible to tram and that's when I did a bit more testing and discovered it was running down hill.

As I mentioned it turns 0.01mm taper over 120mm length which is good enough for the work I do (hobby stuff). However, if I were to upgrade my lathe (I will at some point). I want one that has more adjustment to achieve this and better levels of accuracy, getting mine to this level took several days and several strip downs of the head and use of 1200 wet and dry.

Hi Vic,

If you look at this link **LINK** you will find one of the best image editors available and it's free, it works with windows as well if you download the windows version.

Yes Neil there are some virus's aimed at linux and some of those are pretty bad, but clam will usually take care of them.

This is what I was trying to achieve, it seems so simple now I have done it. Thanks to everyone for the help and encouragement.

I think it has been some years since you used Linux Neil?

Have a look at Linux Mint, easy to use, GUI driven and like I said, no virus's or hanging, quick and easy to use with lots of apps.

Hi,

Hopper, no I was trying to ensure that setting the compound slide to zero gave a true (indicated) run along a parallel test bar and was measured as follows.

Test bar mounted in collett. Clock mounted in tool post and passed along test bar in both directions from both the side (the same as acutting tool would be) and then again along the top. This showed that the tool post travelled very accurately in relation to the chuck and any workpiece in the chuck/collett.

Next the compound slide was checked to be showing a zero degree setting and wound fully back towards the tailstock. Carriage positioned so that the indiactor was at the far end (tailstock end) of the test bar and positioned so that the plunger was at mid point (where the cutting tip would be).

As the compound slide was moved forwards (towards the chuck) the indicator showed the cut getting shallower, no amount of minor adjustments to the angle corrected this error and the error always ran the same way.

Carefull observation showed that the plunger was at mid point of the diameter at the start of the travel, but as the slide moved forward the plunger was dipping lower and thus indicating a shallower cut.

Further investigation showed that the fault is not being caused by swarf, or burrs or paint, just crap maching of the bed or way of the compound slide.

I have corrected the error using shims as stated but it shows how far out the maching is for the compound slide. Now with the compound slide set to zero degrees, it does indeed run 100% parallel to the workpiece, so when required to cut a taper I know it will be accurate.

Why pay loads for a mac when you can buy a low spec windows pc/laptop and then install and run Linux on it. Lots of support, free updates, no virus's and lots of free software available.

Shimmed the compound slide on my Chester db10, it was miles out running down hill. Needed a 0.2mm shim to get it bang on.

Then clocked the crosslide across it's width (110mm) the top face also runs down hill, is 0.08mm over 110mm excessive? I would prefer that it was bang on, but is it worth taking it apart and getting the slide way re-ground at a cost of whatever? Especially as the compound slide would still need to be reworked if I wanted to take out the shim.

Incidently, the lathe cuts parallel to a very tight tolerence (0.01mm over 120mm).

Well down hill actually, but yes same fault as in not horizontally true to the chuck, well figured out Duncan.

I Will have to sort out why and fix it now I know about it.

Thank you XD, will check them out.

No, it wasn't that.

Another clue, I zeroed the clock at the tailstock end.

No matter how I rotated the compound, it got thinner (less cut) as I travelled towards the chuck, the error getting progresively worse as I got nearer to the chuck !