Member postings for jonathan olley

To all of you that replied; Thank you so much for your time and consideration. I shall probably buy a 1/2" cutter as after a brief online search, there are quality HSS cutters new from £15.

Again, all your advice much appreciated. j.o.

Hi, i have come across an issue i wondered if any of the good folk out there would help me with. I'm a novice, so words with few syllables i can just about cope with... I am attempting to machine a cast Iron casting on the cross-slide of my ML7R using an original Myford 2mt 1/2"collet to hold a 12mm end mill. I realise that 12mm is 0.472 of an inch but had read somewhere that the collets closed approximately 0.5 of a mm so i thought it would work and hold the End mill in place. As it is, the fit is somewhere between a ‘sliding’ and a ‘location’ fit and therefore not suitable for fear the tool would work its way out. I guess I’ve answered my own question as to why this set-up has failed but wondered if anyone had any good ideas for a way to proceed? Since I am only taking very light cuts to reach a depth of no more than 0.059in, (1.5mm), is it ok to hold the end mill in the three or four jaw chuck and proceed with caution? Alternatively, if I bought a 1/2in cutter as I probably should have done in the first place, would the collet system work as it is supposed to? Thank you for any advice you can give.

j.o.

Hi, the latest so far; rather than have my lovely ML7R in pieces, I thought I’d put it all back together before I forgot what’s what and got busy with some other distraction...and during the process, adjust the spindle as per the instructions.

Success! (sort of), I’ve managed to adjust the spindle to two tenths over two thou’ of run-out which if you remember is better than the original reading of over eight thou’ of R/O…!

As you can imagine I’m very happy, despite it not being an acceptable tolerance, however it will do for now or at least until I can persuade someone to come and service it professionally.

To that effect I've recently (last two weeks), I've been trying to contact Darren Boden, the ex-Myford engineer, who for a price, would come out to service a Myford lathe. After leaving a voicemail and sending a couple of emails I'm yet to receive any sort of reply, his phone is never answered, just goes to voicmail. He could of course be on holiday but I just wondered if anyone had had recent contact with him and if he's still running his business? Would be good to know so I can try another avenue.

Thank you all for all your technical advice, whimsy and support.

Cheers, Jonathan

Hi, I finally got up enough courage to attempt an investigation myself (Thanks Eric), and this is what I discovered.

The tapered journal was adequately lubricated and the wick only slightly worn. The rear bearings would seem to be in serviceable condition though the set on the far left is noticeably more worn that the set on the right. I am yet to remove them and won't until I receive their replacements. I will replace the wick though it is almost certainly unnecessary.

What I see is that %40 of the front portion of the tapered bearing is worn and the other %60 is unworn, at all in fact. i can still see the scraper marks on the bronze. Was this a poor fit in the first place? Or is this normal wear and tear??

Here are some images...Any comments or suggestions gratefully received. My intention is to replace the ball bearings and adjust the spindle. If I cannot obtain Zero (or close to) run-out on the nose I shall seek further advice and/or shell-out for a new spindle/bush etc or in other words £200 plus the faff of 'fitting', which of course I know nothing about. Funnily enough, my uncle is a retired machine fitter, dealt mostly with industrial production lines for Dunlop...only thing is he lives in NZ....So unlikely to want to pop over for a cup of tea and a Q&A.

Cheers, Jonathan

Thank you all for your kind advice and time spent offering it. I have now ordered a set of bearings from Lathe spares and a new wick from Myford (£12???).

The SMEE is a really good idea so I've enquired about membership.

I'll let you know how I get on!

Thanks again, Jonathan

Ouch..! Thanks for the tip...No pun intended!

How did you find re-setting the spindle to the correct tolerance? Why did you need to remove the spindle....New drive-belt?

Perhaps I should purchase a new bronze bush, rear bearings, wick (and new drive-belt, since the spindle will be out), roll my sleeves up and keep my fingers crossed? That is on the presumption that the hardened steel spindle won't be worn?? I would imagine that the phos' Bronze bush wears rather than the tapered journal??

Cheers, Jonathan

Thanks V8Eng,

I have his details and am in the process of making contact. He's either no longer active in this sector or he's got so much work he's 'relaxed' about calling back. I live in hope!

According to the 2011 census there is 8,173,900 people living in the Greater London area...You'd think one of them might be able to help?

Thanks again for the input, much appreciated.

Cheers, Jonathan

Sure thing John. Though I'm not looking for favour, I'm willing to pay, inc travel. I'd even consider delivering the lathe myself only it's heavy and awkward and I'd rather not. Still, cheaper than buying a brand new Super 7!

Right now I'm stuck and can't progress so I've got no choice. Not a great place to be!

Cheers, Jonathan

Hi all, been away with my boys to see 'Flying Scotsman' in York. Nice. Really I wanted to say thank you for all who offered advice and instruction.

I think the best course to take right now is to have an expert take a look rather than 'tinkering' myself. The problems I have are mainly due to lack of hands-on experience and it would be helpful to watch someone else adjust the headstock spindle or tell me the bearing need replacing. Once I've seen it done I'll be more able to have a go myself in the future.

Looking at some past threads on another forum topic I've found someone who may be able to help though I'm yet to make contact despite trying? If anyone knows anyone who is qualified to repair/adjust my lathe please do let me know, I would be most grateful. Obviously this would be treated as a professional service i would be willing to pay for. I'm based in North London not far from Liverpool Street Station.

Thanks again for all your help, best Jonathan

Hi, I checked the oil cup by removing it. Plenty of oil dribbled out of the chamber and collected in a pool on the swarf-tray. Along with it also came swarf? which I presume is from the bearing?? Not sure what to make of it really!!! Is this normal?

I also checked the run-out on the rear of the mandrel and it's showing lest than two thou' of run-out unloaded.

Thanks for the input advice Robbo, I'll give it a go. Cheers, jonathan

Hi,

I have a Myford ML7R, had it for a few years in order to teach myself machining. I enjoyed it at school and now have the peculiar passion for gas turbines and wanted a ‘precision lathe’ to build my engines with. The previous owner used it to make steam engines.

When I first set the lathe up I did so as per instructions laid out in the handbook and all was good and I found I could turn quite accurately, (for a beginner).

Recently I noticed that the chuck seemed to be running out of true. I whipped it off and made a measurement with the DTI on the mandrel nose, in the photographs. Due to work commitments I’d not run the lathe for a year or so and during that time I’d changed the motor as the original stopped working. The motor was changed and nothing other than an oil and dust has been done. The lathe is located in my workshop/basement and is not subject to any great changes in temp’ or humidity.

The lathe runs very sweetly with no load but when cutting with hard steels or larger diameter soft material there is a nasty rumble that comes from the headstock. That is cuts bigger than a few thou’ on non-hardened stainless steel. This is is only heard when taking right-hand cuts and parting-off. There is no unusual sound when drilling from the tailstock. There is no obvious play in the headstock mandrel, in fact it all seems very smooth.

The lathe itself has had some use but is lightly used by me and regularly oiled and much loved, though I cannot tell if the headstock-bearing is receiving any oil via the wick system. It looks to me that oil may not be reaching the headstock-bearing as the cup remains topped-up whereas in the past I’m pretty sure it drained quickly under use. i should point out that heavy right-hand cuts previously produced a loud rumble from the headstock bearings even when there was no run-out on the mandrel. I should say the ‘rumble’ is loud and I back-off when I hear it.

I’m keen to adjust the headstock mandrel to see if that will sort the problem out, but as a complete novice I fear doing more harm than good. I understand how the mandrel is supported (in theory) and I’ve read how to adjust for wear and have the equipment for doing so. It’s my lack of experience and as I said fear of making things worse that is holding me back.

As for the photographs, these two images show the run-out of the mandrel nose. I have disengaged the cone-pulley to bull-wheel so the headstock mandrel can run free on it’s bearings. It has a smooth rotation and has no discernible play. The movement of the needle is approx. 5.5 thou’ and I’m presuming this is out of tolerances?

Any help in the way of knowledgable advice would be very gratefully received.

Cheers, Jonathan

No, nothing to frighten the horses Neil....! Haha!

Like this.......

nice idea Neil. i fitted the quill back into the cast part of the mill tightened it up and gave it a few encouraging whacks. Nothing moved. Perhaps because i'm not hitting hit with enough force, I don't know but I think I might go down the road of the improvised puller. Thanks, food for thought. j.o.

Thank you all for your suggestions, I'll let you know how I get on....Until then, then....Cheers. j.o.

p.s. thanks for the link to the site selling the brochure. I think it's just a brochure and spec' sheet but I'll investigate.

Thanks for your reply John, I think you may well be right. I've included a photograph of the 'business end' of the quill and as you can see there is no circlip or obvious sign of securing the pieces together. I'd still like to get some definitive advice if anyone out there has actually disassembled one of these before or at least knows how they are assembled. Whereas i love to hit things with hammers I'm disinclined as experience has shown me the error of whacking something I know little about. The quill is also quite stoutly built and will require much whacking! hahaha!

Cheers, j.o.

Dear All, I have a Rodney and it has a problem. I detailed the problem, a stiff quill, at; http://www.model-engineer.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=115074#1966259 last night.

If anyone would be kind enough to take a look at the post and perhaps advise me i would be most grateful. Now, i bought this 'unit' before I knew anything about milling...it was much cheaper than some of the sums mentioned above, but I'm beginning to realize why that might have been! So before I consign the Rodney to elaborate 'chock' status, i'd like to investigate the possibility of getting it up and running so I can either sell it and retire or perhaps even use it in my space 'challenged' workshop...!

Many thanks, j.o.

p.s. here are some photos showing how far I've got and my question is how do I dismantle the rest so I can remove the shaft and inspect the lower ball races. Looking at how it's been assembled I'm wondering if the steel ring marked 1L is a threaded locking ring holding all together? If so I can't see a way of getting hold of it to un-screw it! To be honest it has me completely baffled and I'd just like to know how it all fits together before I start a more medieval approach....! Cheers, j.o.

Hi, thank you for the replies. Firstly I hope the shaft is not warped but I understand this could be a possibility but a bit like when the car wont start i check to see if it's got fuel before I tackle the hydraulic injectors!

I can see that the lower ball race could be clagged-in but until I can dismantle the quill completely i cannot tell the state of the lower races or if the shaft is warped or not and I cannot for the life of me work out how this is to be done!! Is it possible that this is a 'fit-and-forget' assembly....?

And thanks for all the links btw. Cheer, j.o.