Here is a list of all the postings Hollowpoint has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: 4 Jaw Independent Chuck For The Sieg C0 Baby Lathe. |
05/01/2020 19:11:15 |
Most of the small 14x1 chucks on ebay are made by "sanou" in china.
They are OK for the money, the chuck that came fitted to your C0 will probably be made in the same factory so it will give you some idea of quality. |
Thread: Choice between cheap mini milling machines. |
05/01/2020 09:47:11 |
A late model dore westbury might fit the bill. You should get a decent one for £500. Not too big and functions well as a drill. |
Thread: Broken Taps |
29/12/2019 12:14:27 |
Posted by CHARLES lipscombe on 27/12/2019 23:14:34:
I tap quite a lot of stainless but restrict myself to 303 and 304 grades which are much easier to tap than 316. What I have found is that HQS taps from the Tap and Die Co cut stainless very well, just as they are advertised to do. However they seem to be some form of carbon steel and do not cut for long before they go blunt. I have now abandoned these and gone to HSS only. For tapping I use Trefolex for general purpose tapping, in the possibly mistaken belief that this is what everyone else uses. For screw-cutting in the lathe I use an American product, Tap Magic which works just as well as Trefolex but has the added advantage that being transparent it makes it easier to see what is going on. I am surprised that people find WD 40 suitable for tapping, I would have thought that its constituents of Paraffin and fish oil would not provide enough lubrication, except for Aluminium. I tend to use either trefolex, rocol or ct90 depending on the job and material type. The suggestion to use wd40 is more about flushing away the chips than lubrication. A blast with an air compressor usually works too but you will flush away the cutting fluid at the same time. Edited By Hollowpoint on 29/12/2019 12:16:58 |
Thread: Creality 3D For Christmas - Impressions so Far |
28/12/2019 19:30:51 |
The problems you are having printing the honeycomb will be down to settings. You probably have wall thickness set at a value greater than the wall itself making it theoretically impossible to print. Think using a 6mm slot drill to mill a 4mm slot. But it can be less obvious than that too. Your slicer might be trying to produce the wall in multiple passes. You cant produce a .4mm wall with two walls at .4mm (2x0.4=0.8) if you see what I mean. You can view a test in cura before printing. It should show any parts unlikely to print properly. |
Thread: Replacement inverter advise |
26/12/2019 18:09:45 |
I wouldn't bother with the Chinese inverters. You just never know what you will get. Not worth the risk IMO. Do you really want to risk fire or electrocution for a £50 saving? Im sure ill get a torrent of abuse from the usual crowd for daring to voice my common sense opinion but hey ho. |
Thread: Broken Taps |
22/12/2019 16:27:26 |
What type of cutting compound are you using? I find that the thick stuff, the type with the consistency of grease will hold the chips and clog small taps. Try using a very light spray of something like wd40. |
Thread: Axminster/Sieg/Clarke lathe - all the same? |
22/12/2019 16:16:48 |
Or
Amadeal CJ18A 550w motor £475 Amadeal AMA-LA-714BWE 500w brushless motor £585
I believe post is free. |
Thread: Yahoo "Myfordlathes" group has moved... |
17/12/2019 20:50:20 |
Anyone know where the Unimat forum has moved to? |
Thread: Axminster/Sieg/Clarke lathe - all the same? |
17/12/2019 09:43:20 |
Don't forget the warco, Chester, sealy and amadeal varients. |
Thread: Cannon or Carronade? |
09/12/2019 09:22:27 |
I like that! 😎 I wouldn't bother boring it out. Leave it as original. |
Thread: Watch making video |
05/12/2019 21:19:36 |
Having just watched This video I thought I must share it with you guys. I found it very interesting and I'm sure some of you will too. This guy is very talented especially considering his age. The audio is a bit messed up but still worth a watch. (pun intended). |
Thread: Meddings pillar drill colour |
05/12/2019 21:08:26 |
Posted by Vic on 05/12/2019 16:32:02:
Posted by Hollowpoint on 04/12/2019 20:30:37:
The Dark Green is hideous imo. Meddings offer a refurbishment service, they use a light blue colour. Looks great. I actually thought Meddings used blue anyway, they must have changed colours in the past? I wonder why so many machine tools were painted either Grey or Green? The last Harrison M300 they bought where I used to work was white, if not at least a very, very pale Grey.
After the war there was a huge surpluss of green paint, that explains why a lot of equipment from around the 50's was green! |
05/12/2019 21:05:54 |
Posted by petro1head on 05/12/2019 16:30:17:
I have gone for smooth Hamerite blue That's the colour! Much nicer than the hammerite dark green. Funnily enough I have one of these drills waiting for restoration so I'm watching with interest. Some before and after pics would be good! |
04/12/2019 20:30:37 |
The Dark Green is hideous imo. Meddings offer a refurbishment service, they use a light blue colour. Looks great. |
Thread: Recommend a Small Parts Lathe for £2k. |
01/12/2019 16:05:30 |
Posted by Mick B1 on 01/12/2019 10:34:33:
For all the stuff I do, I think the Warco WM250V I have now way outclasses the Myford Speed 10 (late type of ML10) in every respect I can think of.
It should be its 2-4 times more expensive.
I've had both the ML10 and a Mini Lathe so I am speaking from experience. I completely fail to see how anyone could believe they are even in the same league! Take my mini lathe for example, the bed, from new, is tighter at one end than the other! Properly ground? Not even close. It would take about a hundred years of use to wear the myford bed into that state! The only real advantage the mini lathe has is the larger internal spindle diameter but in this case its not needed |
01/12/2019 16:01:44 |
Duplicate post Edited By Hollowpoint on 01/12/2019 16:06:16 |
30/11/2019 23:18:38 |
The ML7 and super 7 are massively overrated and overpriced. Your photo proves that even rough ones can fetch a good price.
The ML10 on the other hand is much less popular and represents good value for money, they can be had for less than £500 which is about the price of a mini lathe. I don't know what you went to look at but I don't know how you can be unimpressed? Almost every ml10 I've ever seen has been in at least good condition. They where typically used by model engineers rather than industry so most have seen little use. In comparison to a mini lathe its like a Rolls Royce. No plastic covers, no plastic gears, no plastic handwheels a properly ground bed, proper motor and proper chuck. What's not to like? IMO they are actually a bit of a bargain. I do agree that Boxford lathes beat them all hands down, it just doesn't fit with OP's requirements. |
30/11/2019 13:11:12 |
I don't know why everyone is always quick to recommend new stuff. For small parts a Myford ML10 would be ideal and it will be higher quality than the Chinese stuff. A £1000 will get you a minter. The spare £1000 will buy you all the accessories you will ever need. |
Thread: aluminium troubles |
25/11/2019 09:47:45 |
I'm no cnc expert but it doesn't look like you are doing anything wrong to me. I would try some material from a different supplier. That way you will know one way or another if its a bad batch of aluminium. |
Thread: "Mystery" Tool |
24/11/2019 23:17:42 |
This is my smug face. 😇 |
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