Member postings for Sandgrounder

I've got a Myford Lever Action Collet Chuck with it's set of Imperial collets but I thought I'd try one of the ER series MT2 chucks as metric collets are both cheaper and much more easily obtained, for a trial I bought a cheap chuck which fitted and ran well in the lathe, however it was difficult to remove the work from the chuck, I'd remove the locking nut but the collet was still stuck and required a tap with a brass drift to eject it, as I only have two hands, one for the hammer and the other for the drift this meant both the collet and the work springing out and landing in the swarf under the bed, is this because I bought a cheap collet chuck, do more expensive ones automatically loosen when the locking nut is unscrewed?

Thanks for any advice.

John

I've just bought 5 nitrile 'O' rings for £2.64 inc postage from,

https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/sealsuppliesuk/Nitrile/_i.html?_storecat=24158175014

35mm dia X 3mm section, much too big for you but a quick look shows them down to 1mm i/dia X 1mm section, other  materials available as well.

Edited By Sandgrounder on 11/09/2019 14:27:56

Amazon in Paris are making redundancies in their French workforce.

Thanks for that Andy,

I'd downloaded the manual and had a quick read but the bit about sideways mounting hadn't registered, I'll look into doing it.

John

Thanks for the manual, although I hope I'll never need it for my motor.

This is the best I can do at the moment, the camera does'nt seem to do close ups very well, and excuse the workshop clutter as I'm just re-arranging things, I've tried to crop most of it out. The motor serial no is 958784

Edited By Sandgrounder on 19/08/2019 10:11:50

I've got a 1/2HP motor of the same make which I use for a buffing machine, in addition to the brass plate shown mine has an additional plate reading 'Refrigeration Motor'.

Thats all it is, very simple and if you do have a go at something similar I've just measured it and the material is 0.6mm thick and a bit springy, so something perhaps like nickel silver sheet would be best but I've never worked with it so can't advise, but it is used a lot in electrical contacts etc or some grade of brass sheet?

I obviously don't know exactly what you're doing or the standard and appearance you want the holders to be, but Edison screw lamp fittings can be very simple and still work very well as an ES10 holder I removed from an old radio shows.

Never thought about it before but would there have ever been any taps made? The only Edison screw threads I've ever seen are the ones, both male & female, that are formed in thin brass tubes for the bulb cap and holder.

I've used quite a bit of acetone in the past fitting out a GRP boat, one thing I've noticed now that I don't use it very often is that the polythene containers can deteriorate and start splitting after a year or so, but not as I would have thought at the bottom which is contact with the liquid, but the top in contact with the vapour.

I never disengage the leadscrew, at the end of the thread I stop the lathe, turn the cross slide handwheel one full turn to withdraw the tool 2mm ( if that's sufficient ) then reverse the lathe just past the start of the thread, turn the cross slide handwheel one full turn in plus the next cut and proceed.

Football?

There is a 'British Brass' thread which is exactly 14mm dia, actually 0.5512" and at 26TPI very close to 1MM pitch.

from Machinery's Screw Thread Book.

Edited By Sandgrounder on 19/07/2019 14:15:34

Edited By Sandgrounder on 19/07/2019 14:17:22

Wouldn't the spring or deflection in the boring bar stay the same for the full length of cut assuming the depth of cut and feed rate stay the same?

I'd try to do it in the lathe if possible, a Myford 7 rather than use the Sieg 2, especially if the difference between the pilot hole I could drill and the finished bore is quite big and the depth of bore is quite short as this means stopping the mill every few seconds to slacken the boring bar off, adjust it and tighten, it's much quicker in the lathe,

I thought all Myford S7s had a built in lock, mine does and it's shown as 'item 32' a 'pulley lock assembly' in the Myford handbook, pages 40 & 41, just push it in while turning the chuck and it locks letting you unscrew the chuck.

Probably of no help whatsoever but I've just looked at a couple of Crown 4" four jaw lightweight? chucks (about 30mm body thickness) that I have, and these are stamped on the front face,

"Genuine Crown" and "British Made" with a crown symbol .

John

I may be wrong, probably am, but I thought that 'red hot' would refer to the cutting edges when looked at from a microscopic point of view, although the tool as a whole would appear just warm, the working edges could have been overheated and softened.

I've not seen a threaded version before, but If you Google 'drop nose pin' and select images you'll see plenty of variations.