Member postings for Phil H1

Does anybody have any experience with the use of drawn brass bar for the fabrication of 3 1/2" gauge locomotive cylinders? I can understand the need to exclude brass from a boiler but is it any use for cylinders (with the correct piston material and the use of 'o' rings etc)?.

Phil H

David,

Crammed garage? I know that feeling. What worked for me..... a few trips to the tip (recycling centre) and the scrapyard.

What are you going to build - anything exciting?

Phil H

Thanks Duncan - I hadn't thought about the mass but again - is it really significant? I would imagine another couple of minutes and the additional mass will be heated through. Opening the cylinder drain cocks for a couple of additional seconds would empty the condensation. Have you any experience with solid wall cylinders with no lagging space?

PhilH

There seems to be quite some effort expended to create a lagging space. With a cast iron cylinder for a model locomotive (say 1 1/4" bore) - Is a lagging space really necessary?

Phil H

Chris/ John,

Thanks for those answers - very helpful.

Phil H

I have never driven a model steam locomotive so I hope that the experienced drivers will excuse this question. I have noticed that many of the 3 1/2" gauge engines have optional manual brake designs. Are they more of a cosmetic addition at this scale or an important feature?

PhilH

I have used a 3/4" end mill in a 3 jaw chuck to clean up the sides and bottom of main horns held in a vertical slide. I did that because I have read it in one or two of the old construction manuals. I used the same procedure to clean up the slots of the steel frames before fitting the gunmetal horns.

I also use end mils and slot drills in the tailstock chuck to clean the sides and bottom of pre drilled holes.

I don't quite understand why this is such a problem.

Phil H