Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Jon. I am in Kings Bromley in between Lichfield and Burton on Trent. I use an old Jones and Shipman HSS blade tool at the moment. The cross slide issues I am attempting to overcome should Improve my parting off !

When the lathe goes back together it will have a new feed screw and nut so backlash should be minimal, as well as improved slideway fit.

Welcome along Anthony, you will find some good info on here.

I am not so sure that the home made stuff is treasured more, It just does the job so why change.

MSC are only 20 miles from me, looks like I will call and look at 2mm stuff to start with. I am on the mailing list for the flyer. What I am trying to avoid is buying a system that uses a difficult to get tip. I used " Horn " parting and grooving stuff when at work but a bit pricey for home use.

I am well on with making a new Cross slide for my 14" x 40" Excel lathe, all beefed up to add tee slots and tapped holes on the surface.

My thoughts are now moving ahead to making a rear tool post for a parting tool. What is the preferred size of parting tips ? 2.2mm or 3mm ? Chris.

I tend to use a cut off wheel and shorten well used ones. It is usually the first couple of inches of flute that is worn.

If I am only "rough" drilling I will sometimes grind the drill a bit one sided to cut slightly over when the flutes are showing wear, tends to stop the rubbing.

Neil, I am going to make one of those knurling devises. What size knurl wheels did you use ? It will be on the list of jobs, I am still doing bits on making my new lathe cross slide in between other jobs. All squared up/tee slots and dovetails in. Hope to do the drilling/tapping/oiler positions today then on with the radial tee slot and angel engraving for the top slide.

Jon, It sounds like you use your machines more/harder than the average hobbyist. I do a fair amount of work on the bikes now that I am retired. But actual spindle running time is most likely 4 or 5 hours a week on the lathe and similar on the Bridgeport mill. Add to that the sorting out and set up time plus assembly of parts I am doing around three days a week. My machinery should see my days out.

Michael, I should read the posts a little better. My excuse is it was early and the coffee had not yet wakened me. Chris.

Will the trend to build aluminium cars trigger a rethink?

Condition is everything. When I was working in a contract toolroom we ran Colchester Triumph 2000 machines. These where replaced every 5 years and believe me they where really worn out. 60 to 80 hours a week of hard work took its toll.

Most copper is Hard Drawn as supplied. I have machined more than my share to make EDM electrodes. The answer is to buy free cutting copper that has some sulphur added, another advantage is that it does not bend when the skin is cut like the HD stuff. When I was working in the mould making industry I bought the free cutting copper from EDM suppliers. Here in the midlands I used two companies Erodex and Graphite technologies.

Depending on the final use of the copper it should be fine but you would need to check spec if making a boiler.

The two stockists above sell in 12" lengths but like all copper it does not come cheap. If you form grind it use plenty of tallow on the wheel, for general machining cut dry or use a little soluble oil from a washing up liquid bottle.

Ajohnw,

You are correct about the budget of £3000 not being enough as I did find an ex training school Student in good condition but that was £4250 and no haggling. It did not have much tooling with it that would have put it up around £5000 by the time I had added what I wanted. Having bought my Bridgeport mill and inverters I had to walk from the student.

Make a list of what you may possibly be doing on the machine. I mess around with old motorcycles so the ability to pass a fork stanchion through the chuck/spindle bore was essential. I had a South Bend "Heavy Ten" for 45 years then when I retired and lost the use of bigger machinery at work wanted something bigger. After fruitless searching to find a good Harrison or Colchester (my budget was around £3000) I bought a Taiwan built "Excel" lathe. These are badged under several names. It is a 14x40 size 14" diameter x 40" between centres. It is no Colchester but came with proper Dixon quick change tool post/Newall readout/Pratt 3 and 4 jaw chucks/faceplate/fixed and traveling steadies ETC. 3HP and runs off an inverter. So far it has done all I need, it screwcuts well but a bit of a faff with change wheels when swopping metric to imperial. The down side is a poor cross slide design that only has two bolts holding the top slide on and has been over tightenend and damaged the cast iron. I am making a new slide to beef things up. Take a look at an American site "Grizzly" 14x40. I paid £1000 plus the cost of delivery and it compliments my Bridgeport mill for size very well. Edit the machine is around 15 years old.

I would still prefer a "Branded" UK built machine but good ones are not easy to find. Good luck with your search.

Edited By Chris Evans 6 on 09/04/2016 10:04:51

I do such a variation of motorcycle work that nothing stays on the table for long. Vice/rotary table/angle plate can all go on two or more times a day.

The thing I really need is a second Bridgeport to save all the setting up.

I run a 3HP lathe from an inerter with no problems. Student if not worn to destruction is a nice lathe just check the spindle bore size if going for an older one as some where on the small side.

Welcome Ian, Before you ask which lathe / mill think about what it is you wish to make on them. I need biggish machinery to cope with motorcycle parts.

Having access to a copy milling machine I would make two plates with dowels to locate on the gear teeth so that they are both in line then copy mill from the original to the new one. I do motorcycle cams this way.

Yes Sam square in section and like barley twist. I was still at school when he sold the stuff so 54/55 years ago at least.

I tend to keep the odd brake disc under the bench. They are great for making slave plates/jigs etc. With a quick skim over and a few tapped holes.