Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Simply because 304 is an unpleasant materiel to machine.

Welcome along from another Christopher. Enjoy the hobby and learning curve, best advice I can give is "Don't rush" what is your location ? Just the county will do, there may be someone close willing to give guidance.

Well done, after years of service my Thorspark equipped BSA still starts first kick.

In my first few days when I started my apprenticeship the old hands taught me to shorten the tip of centre drills to prevent breakage. The tip is only needed as a grease reservoir when using dead centres, not required with live (Running) centres. Last 30 or more years I have only used spotting drills for starting drilled holes.

Sad news Geoff, I can relate to the problem. A stroke two and a half years ago and I just thought I was a long time recovering only to be diagnosed with Parkinson's at the start of the year. Add in ongoing prostate cancer woes and I really ought to start to move my equipment on. I still manage a few workshop jobs and can't bring myself to let go.

Welcome along Johnathan,enjoy the forum, lots of varied subjects covered on here.

They certainly do, I now know the difference between a Bracebridge Street Norton 1/4" nut and an AMC Plumsted 1/4" nut. The Bracebridge street nut only has a single chamfer.

5C block and slitting saw for me, I make a fair few for the motorcycle restoration boys.

In my working life as a mould and die toolmaker I learnt a lot about "Toolsteel". Be warned it is a very complex world, "Hotwork" steels for mould and die vary from "coldwork" steels used for presswork tooling.

Factor in the heat treatment to harden/temper the steel, this can cost as much as the steelcost per kilo. Best stick to known grades for what you want to make.

I am late into reading this thread but do not object to making a donation to keep the site running. I use a motorcycle forum and have just added another 30 days for $9.99 (£8.34) a cheap way to entertain myself. It was not until I read this thread and looked at the donate bit that I saw it, it is not an in your face pay now banner.

Once again welcome, two strokes are a black art to me I just don't understand them.

Welcome along Michael, what sort of thing interests you ? Pre-war motorcycles for me but I do like to see some of the models. Some very skilled people on here.

I modified a series three Land Rover diesel to run an electric vacuum pump. Triggered the pump from the brake light switch via a relay. Worked very well, pump was a Hella "U28" these are fitted to Volvos amongst other vehicles.

Having spent my working life in the injection mould toolmaking I think you will find ejector pins are nitrided to give a hard working area. Believe me they will bend when they seize or the press malfunctions and they hit something solid.

Core pins are available through hardened and may be more like what you need.. Look up some of the industry suppliers of standard mould parts from the likes of "Hasco" "Diemould services" (DMS)"

I cant comment on the Warco spec. but most lathes I have used all seem to use an ISO 32 grade hydraulic oil for headstock and gearbox and ISO 68 grade hydraulic oil for the ways.

As a vintage motorcycle club member we get a good deal from Peter James. £21 cheaper this year £114 for two pre-war BSA bikes.

Welcome along.

I think you have it sussed re the very low rpm. My single cylinder BSA Sloper fires up with a gentle prod on the kickstart.

Iv'e seen a Velo crankcase ruined when an electric start conversion was fitted. Apparently the bike kicked back when attempting to start and the conversion did not incorporate a sprag clutch. Like a lot of things great when all is working well.

I can speak from experience about the "Thorspark" conversion. I fitted one to my 1929 built (1930 model) BSA 350 Sloper. 9 years or more and still first kick starting. You do have to set up timing marks and do final timing with a strobe. The conversion is reversable and economical to do.