Member postings for Chris Evans 6

Yes I still have the tin of "Squirrel Grey" from 7 or 8 years ago. Berger brand oil based, I did not want to throw money and loads of time at the saw but it is proving to last well enough.

Welcome along. A separate mill beats buggering about on the lathe any day. I have made a cross slide for my Taiwanese 14" x40" lathe. A simple polystyrene pattern will do for a one off casting. You then need a mill to machine the slide......

I have some genuine Hardinge collets on my cutter grinder also some South Bend collets that date back to 1942.

I will check these along with some cheap Chinese ones and report back. I have had no fitting issues with any of them in my 5C collet chuck.

I repainted my "Donkey Saw" a few years ago with Berger household paint because I had some and it was near enough the grey colour required.

The machine does not get a lot of use but the paint is standing up well to the suds oil.

Welcome along Stewart, always useful to have some machinery around with old cars and bikes to work on.

I have one somewhere, it gets whatever is in the oilcan when I remember to oil it which is usually when it starts to get stiff.

The toolroom where I served my time had a piece of grinding wheel embedded in a rafter. All apprentices where shown this when they did their stint on the grinding section to highlight the danger. We where all sent on the "Abrasive Wheels" course in around 1971. I still have my wheel mounting safety certificate and memories of the dangers from the pictures shown on the course.

Welcome along Ian, there is a wealth of knowledge available on this site. Starting this hobby you will soon need a mill and bigger shed.

Enjoy the lathe.

I have only had the later A10 with conventional centre stand and don't recall the earlier A7 stand design.

My present BSA bikes are from 1929 and 1932 so still have the drop down rear wheel stand. Both are missing the correct front wheel stand.

Given that most old bikes don't cover many miles one made from EN16T should last for many years.

Silver steel(drill rod) may be ok if unhardened but by nature is a brittle steel. If lubrication is good I would try EN16T or EN19T in as supplied state. You should be able to get an equivalent specification steel in Canada.

Pete, I have not forgotten you. I said I would ask a mate if he had a manual but with covid and me having a stroke just have not got to see him yet. I am recovering well and will ask as soon as I can. Chris.

If you are close to Lichfield/Burton on Trent I will do it or you can use the lathe.

Was that a plasma cutter you used to cut the hole ? I have never seen one working.

Welcome along David, you are right about the eastern machinery being good value. I have a Taiwanese lathe now 20 years old and still good. Without the imported machines the hobby would not be to popular. Before this lathe I did have a South Bend machine of 1942 war finish supply that still worked OK.

If you where near me I would let you use my SDS. Maybe a local forum member has one ? Could you drill through and put a metal plate (big washer ) on the outside to spread the load ?

Welcome along Adrian, enjoy your machinery and the forum.

Another case for an approximate location. My local to me in the Midlands steel stockholder carries a good range.

With the oil filled head are you using the correct "Felt backed" style of belt ? The latter sealed head uses a yellow looking thinner belt. Try Andmar in Leicestershire for correct information/supply.

Having spent a lifetime as a mould and die toolmaker I have done my share of bluing the dies together. Over the last few years before I retired I found the "Stuarts" blue to be to wet and gave poor results. This was overcome by applying with a small brush with the bristles cut short, dabbed in the blue and then rubbed out on newspaper. You will get enough blue on the job this way to see what you are doing without false results.