Member postings for gavin compton

thanks for that i must of been googleing wrong or something lol.

just to double check the "core Dia" is one used for dies ?

thanks

Gav

HI

is there any charts about for ME tap and die drill size etc charts ? I got a jezuz book but they not in it. ?????

thanks

Gav

Hi all

i got a new 3 jaw chuck and a few problems been sorted :D first i not longer get a massive centre changes so no more oval cuts :D. also finish is alot better but will get better once new cross slide t-bolts come ,i noticed cross slide was rocking a small amount ,went to do t-bolts up and they just failed.

thanks

gavin

hi all

i been trying to pratice turning for when my new flywheel is delivered but i having trouble tracking down a few problems i got with my lathe its a 1947 ml7 with white metal bearings.

problems are

1: if i turn bit of stock then undo the chuck and rotate the stock then clamp up i find the stock is no longer centred. is this normal ???

2: i get very poor finish on all work ,brass is ok not mirror finish but smooth everything else is very rough feels more like a file !!!!

i placed a dial on the chuck and used wood to lever it up and i got 0.18mm movement is this too much ?????

ive checked bearing blocks are clamped down and checked the clamp nut on end of the spidle. i checked all slides etc,spent all day griding tools even tryed carbine tipped tools basicly im at a lost other than thinking the 0.18mm movement is too much ????????????????????

thanks

Gavin

Hi all

thanks again Jason for your help and replys.

been working on the looks of the engine,the base frame been remade and the top been de-tared ,sanded and painted. these photos are of first coat of clear,once top is finished the sides be painted black.

well it ben ran on air for it first few runs just to make sure it all turning correct etc but after that steam power. guess i could manually add oil to vavle chest during setup runnings. would it be good to add oil points to the eccentric straps ? or just add the oil via the rims ??.

thanks again

Gavin

hi.

would a displacement lubricator be a good idea on this engine ???. specially as it has a cast iron piston ring ??

the engine has no way to lub the piston currently in fact a lot of this engine has no oil points where i would of thought there would be the only oil points are on the two bearing blocks and piston slides. am i over thinking it all or should the likes of the eccentrics ,crank pin etc have a way to oil them ??

thanks

gavin

Hi All

thank you all for your replys,i ordered a 8.5 inch curved casting from engineers emporium i have to read up on how it correctly machine it only thing is the old one was a 5 spoke new one 6 spoke but at least it look close to how it should. last night i had to re-machine the shaft as the drop damaged the part that sits in the bearing.By the time it was anywhere near round it was to small O.D so i machined a sleeve that i heat pressed onto and machined to correct OD.

i would of make a complete new shaft but i couldn't find a way to remove the eccentrics.

thanks

gavin

Wow Jason i been googling for past hour and found nothing lol thank you i look into them, yes i would rather stick with a curved buy depends on what about to buy .

thanks

gavin

THank you Jason

now to hunt for one

gavin

ok so i might of be mistaken as to what size i can turn. i might be able to turn a 8" flywheel. where would people recomend getting a casting from ??

thanks

gavin

hi

what the max size flywheel that can be turned in a myford ml7 ?

thanks

Gavin

i would if i could find one machined i only got a small lathe its not big enough to machine a 8" flywheel

Well that this project over flywheel and shaft rolled off work bench and broke the flywheel snaped the spokes im rather shocked it broke ,now i got bits of a engine that going to waste.

gavin

Hi all

I having trouble with my maths I think dia of the piston is 4.5cm so I worked out area as 15.90cm2???? Timing this by stroke X2 at 13.5 gives me 429.3 now if that's right, I don't think it is how do I then work out stuff like amount of steam needed to run and pressure etc??

Gavin

Hi all

Thanks for that Nick . Before I start putting engine together can I double check with u lot on how to work out amount of power and steam usage/pressure, is it cylinder diameter x piston stroke?. I have some 4mm thick copper tube that's 175mm od that I want to use to make a true cornish boiler (brickwork flues the lot) want to workout what this engine will need to run to see if the boiler in mind would run it.

I also built the new Base today much better now just got fill screws holes in and prep for paint

Thanks

Gavin

Edited By gavin compton on 10/12/2015 23:41:08

Thanks Jason i order some for the rebuild

i also noticed the based is warped there a 10mm twist/lift on front left to rear right. there no screws just two studs clamping the two cross members in place. i had to cut the studs as the nuts and holes was filled with epoxy. inspecton of the cross members showed they are not cut sq. so i can either repair and true up the base or start again,im not sure yet i hate wood work lol.

thanks

Gavin

Hi jason

thanks yet again

what one would be best ? the "old" type or the "modern" one ?

Thanks

Gavin

Hi all

here a few more pics

As you can see i changed the color of the flywheel and striped and repainted most parts. during the strip down i found some lagging as in picture one it came from the center of the cilnder plate where the piston rod go though See pic 9 .it i guessed was used to seal the piston rod it looks like hemp and plumbers mate putty ??????.

can anyone ID this for me ? also what would you all recommend as to replacement of this seal ?????.

also in my last two pics are the results of bit of metal polshing

Thanks

Gavin

Edited By gavin compton on 09/12/2015 18:24:03

Hi Jason

thanks for reply. thread is removeable they are studs. you right about the "L" looking werid. guess im just being picky. i could thread a bit of round bar and then blend the round bar on to the other end of the eccentric rods,if the angle wrong i would sliver solder at correct angle. then again if it not broke...........

i also removed the wood lagging it was rather uneven and unsightly not sure if to put wood back on or sheet metal color matched.

thanks

Gavin